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  Cho Oyu - Everest Summiter Gary Guller for the 2004 Expedition 8,201m: Up to camp 1 and

Cho Oyu with the peak glowing in the sun.

Expedition Dispatch: Greetings to all from Advanced Base Camp. All team members and all our climbing Sherpa plus a few Tibetan friends succeeded yesterday 15 September with a load carry to Camp One at 6400m. A long day it was for all of us, as we returned all the way back to ABC late yesterday afternoon. So, all in all, after a 5 hour trek up the moraine and the steep scree slope to Camp One, we dropped our first carry, carved out some tent platforms in the snow, stashed some gear and headed back down in time for dinner, a little Johnny Cash, and an early night. We woke up to a slight dusting of snow, a 1/2 inch or so on the tents and the ground, breakfast came quick and the day, even though resting, will go fast because we know we'll be heading up to the higher altitude very soon again. Cho Oyu, obviously is a huge mountain, the 6th highest in the world, and it cannot be taken for granted - therefore we must look at each day individually as a team and be sure to monitor our own health and fitness. There have been quite a number of climbers that have already retreated homeward off the mountain after only climbing to Camp 1. I can only speak for myself, but I do feel that folks come to these mountains under some sort of illusion that it will be a rather easy undertaking to be blessed with the opportunity to stand on the summit. I question why folks come here without having done the necessary homework prior to joining an expedition. Its not for I or any other person to say who can climb or who cannot, but I do not see children running around the base camp, therefore all climbers are somewhat responsible for knowing what they have signed up for....we are all adults here.

Resting today at Advanced Base Camp, the weather very pleasant, a gentle breeze allows the prayers from the flags to be gently released to the skies. Jocelyn was one of the original climbing team members, but before leaving Kathmandu she decided that she would just come to support her partner Philippe Gerard and the team. Jocelyn is a really great person and hung out at ABC yesterday and awaited our return from Camp 1. Today, though, she left for a 10-12 day Tibetan high trek, courtesy of the nice folks at Arun, the CMA (Chinese Mountaineering Association, the TMA (Tibetan Mountaineering Association) and two Tibetan assistants, Kungar and Rakpa who will accompany her trekking adventure far away from base camp. No doubt it will be a great trip for all. A far better way to spend some time whilst Jocelyn is here high in the Himal. She'll return in 10-12 days, just prior, hopefully, to our summit push.

I'll be back in touch in 4 or 5 days, after we establish the higher camps, acclimate further, and return to rest at ABC prior to pushing upward 27-28 September. We'll see, obviously there is quite a lot of reasons that could delay or advance this schedule. We'll take it one day at a time and tomorrow we'll head to Camp 1. But for now, it is time again to sleep.

Our best to our friends at EverestNews.com and to the family and friends back home. Big hello from me to the Weidner's, the Osburn's, the Guller's (all of them), Andy, Christia, Chris, Lynn and everyone else that I enjoy a cold Sprite with from time to time.

Greetings to the 23rd club, thinking of the next party soon after my return - and a big welcome to the world to Bridget's new baby - only hoping that it arrived before this dispatch goes live. Hi to Lee Hancock, the worlds greatest writer, and Steve, the best sailor, and Erin, just the sweetest young friend with whom I have so much laugher. Love it - see you soon!   

Gary Guller  for Arun Expeditions.

Team Members: Gary Guller (USA & England), Brook A.(USA), Phillip G.(Swiss), Jocelyn M(Swiss), Ben W.USA), Diana F.(USA), Philippe S. (France), Darrell B.(USA), Jens V. (Germany), Claire D.(France)

Gary Guller, veteran expedition leader, Everest summiter, author and motivational speaker. To book Gary


Cho Oyu, the world's 6th highest mountain at 8,201m

Tibet - Cho Oyu, the world's sixth highest mountain at 8,201m, is located just west of Everest and Lhotse along the Nepali-Tibetan border. Cho Oyu is a straightforward climb and not technically demanding, an excellent mountain for climbers wanting to scale their first 8,000m peak.

Flying from Kathmandu (1,280m) over the spectacular Himalayan mountain chain, we'll arrive just outside Lhasa, the heart and soul of Tibetan Buddhism, at almost 3,600m. We'll spend our first night in Tibet relaxing and acclimatizing to the significant increase in altitude. While in Lhasa, we'll tour the former winter residence of the Dalai Lama, the Potala Palace, and his summer residence, Norbulingka Palace. We'll visit other notable sites such as Jokhang Monastery, barter for goods at Barkhor Market, and travel just beyond the city limits to watch the scriptural debates at Sera Monastery.

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