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  Sad results on Makalu: 1 missing climber and 1 passed away on Makalu Update

Below is an update on the information about Jay Sieger and Vladislav Terzyul obtained from the climbers on Makalu.

Jay Sieger and Vladislav Terzyul set off on May 16 to ascend to the summit of Makalu. Climbers saw them ascending.  They stayed late in the day and did not have  time to return before dark to summit camp. They communicated that everything was alright. On May, 18 in 09:20-10:00am, a team member observed Jay Sieger going down in the patch top (summit camp), then disappeared. On May, 20, two other team members summitted and found a landmark with the Tibetan tag which was taken by Vladislav Terzyul, which indirectly testifies to their making the summit.  As the two team members descended, they found the body of Jay approximately at a height of 8300 m. They could see the area in which he fell and it must have been a 30 meter fall, not far from the original path.

No word on Vladislav Terzyul's whereabouts.

Older update is below

Many questions are unanswered. The Sieger, and Terzyul families are still looking for answers... If you have information please e-mail  

Basic information found to date:

Jay and Mr. Terzyul set off on May 16 to ascend to the summit. Climbers saw Jay ascending.  On May 18, a team member saw Jay going down in the patch top (summit camp), then disappeared. No witnesses to his fall but he must have fallen 30 meters from the looks of things. On May 20, two other climbers in his expedition found his body. Jay was found 160 meters below the summit of Makalu, at 8300 feet, not far from the original path.

No further news on Mr. Terzyul.

The Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition attempted the West Buttress "Paragot ridge" this Spring. They have reported that Jay Sieger has died. While investigating the death of Jay Sieger, at the request of the family, we have discovered the famous climber Vladislav Terzyul, is also missing. Several of the Kazakhstan climbers summited after Jay and Vladislav went missing... However, very few details to date.

Both climbers are said to have summited. For Vladislav Terzyul this would have been his 13th of the 14 8000 meter peaks. The Kazakhstan climbers have said they found Jay's body after they summited.

Jay Sieger and Vladislav Terzyul, both of whom were on the Kazakhstan permit, were said to have summited first. However, details are very few....

Many questions are unanswered, we hope to have answers soon...

Below is information on Vladislav Terzyul and Jay Sieger (which is a little dated information) from the EverestNews.com archives.

American Jay Sieger           Climbing Resume

1986- Aconcagua - summit

1987- Makalu- 7000m (weather)

1989- Everest- 8600m (weather)

1990- McKinley- summit

1991- Mt. Spurr (Alaska Range) new route, summit

1993– Hayden Peak (St. Elias Range) 12,000’ summit

         Mt. Bona (St. Elias Range) 15,000- summit

1994- Mt. Bear South (14,000’) St. Elias Range-new route, summit

         Peru- Quitaraju (20,000’) summit

         Alpamayo( 20,000’) summit

         Huascaran (22,500’) summit

1995- K2 N. Ridge- 8000m. (weather)

1996- Korzhnevskaya-7310m- summit

         Peak of 4- 6100m- summit

1997- Kangchenjunga- 7950m weather

         Bolivia- Condoriri (19,000’) summit

         Huayna Potosi (20,000’) summit

         Illimani (22,500’) summit

         Pequeno Alpamayo (18,500’) summit

1998- Cho Oyu- 8000m – deep snow

         Bolivia-   Ancohuma (22,500’) summit

         Sajama (22,500’) summit

1999- K2 –Abruzzi Ridge- 6800m (partner killed by rockfall)

2000- Dhaulagiri- 7800m- deep snow

         K2 N. Ridge-7500m – weather

2001- Lhotse- 7950m (illness, weather)

         Khan Tengri 7010m summit

         Pik Pobeda – 5000m- weather

Jay' current plans for 2002 include Makalu 2002 as a member of the Team led by Piotr Pustelnik followed by K2.

Vladislav Terzyul, Ukraine, born in 1953.

List of his climbs: Over 8000 meters peaks:

Kangchenjunga, 1993, east ridge, International Expedition

K2, 1994, Abruzzi route, Ukrainian Expedition/Odessa Alpine Club

Broad Peak, 1995, Main (8047 m) west edge and north ridge, International Expedition

Gasherbrum II, 1996, classic route, International Expedition

Annapurna, 1996, north-west ridge, new route, Polish International Expedition

Nanga Parbat, 1997, Diamir face, Ukrainian Expedition 

Everest, 1999, from north side, Ukrainian National Expedition

Shishapangma, 2000, classic route. Central (8013 m), Ukrainian National Expedition

Cho Oyu, 2000, classic route, solo

Manaslu, 2001, south-east ridge, new route, Ukrainian National Expedition.

In summer 2003 he summited Hidden Peak (8068 m) in alpine style without supplementary oxygen as usual.

Climbs to the highest peaks (over 7000 m) of former Soviet Union - Lenin Peak, Komunizma Peak (twice), Korzhenevskoy Peak (twice), Pobeda Peak.

Numerous climbs in mountains region of Caucasus, Pamir, Tian-Shan, Himalayas, Karakorum, the most prominent peaks – Nanda-Devi (1991) east ridge, Rackiot (1994), Ama-Dablam (1998).

Skiing down from the top of Cho Oyu and from 7400 meters on Shishapangma.

All the climbs were made without oxygen.

New information about the recent Tian-Shan expedition. Mr. Terzyul summited Mt. Than-Tengri (6995 meters) the most beautiful and picturesque peak of the region and the fifth highest summit on the former USSR territory and confirms the title of Snow Leopard. At any case now he is one of the best mountaineers of CIS countries.

Update Spring 2002: Vladislav Terzyul summits Lhotse!

Update Autumn 2002: Vladislav Terzyul summits Dhaulagiri! and the report!

Clearly one of the best...

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