Update by José Luis Abreu from Base Camp
the route on the Khumbu icefall
helping the Sherpas installing equipment on the Khumbu icefall and going back
to Base Camp, the traditional PUJA ceremony was held.
Puja is a
ceremony to bless the expedition.
It is done
in all expeditions. Sherpas won't go up the mountain before the ceremony. It
is directed by a Buddhist lama who comes from Tengboche or some other nearby
town. During the ceremony all the climbing equipment which is used in the
ascent is blessed. The ceremony last more than one hour and ends with
abundant food and drinks. It was held at 8:30 am on April 2.
construction is built in the center of the camp and on it is installed a mast
to which all the ropes with prayer flags are tied. Each flag has a prayer and
it is believed that each time the wind blows it, the prayer goes up to the
mountain gods. The mountain behind the mast is Khumbutse.
is ready to start climbing. Tomorrow, Saturday April 3, at 6 am, the climbers
will go up to Camp 1. They will be the first to arrive to Camp 1 this year.
April 3, the 7 climbers of the team left to Camp 1. They were preceded by an
hour by high altitude Sherpas of the expedition, who carried tents and other
materials for Camp 1. They were the first climbers to get to Camp 1 this
went well, everybody felt strong enough to sleep over at Camp 1. We keep
contact by radio between the climbers and Base Camp every two hours during the
In the last
communication, before updating this page, Andrés informed us that since
everybody is feeling fine, the will help the Ice Fall Doctor to fix the lines
up to Camp 2 and they will go back to sleep to Camp 1. This would result in
an excellent acclimatization. Tomorrow other groups will start climbing to
Camp 1, e. g. the Greeks.
climbed to Camp 1 with one of the Sherpas that are fixing the Khumbu icefall.
I had a great time, they accepted me in their group, I helped carry ropes up
to 6,000 meters and they were very happy.
(today) and Friday (tomorrow) we will be resting at Base and on Saturday we
will climb to Camp 1 to sleep. On Friday we are going to have a Puja (which
is like a Buddhist mass) so that the Sherpas are in peace with their gods. I
have already said some Our Fathers and Ave Marias.
and I fixed yesterday one of the most difficult ladders of the route. We
joined five vertical ladders to pass a wall of ice of about 15 meters. It was
really hard but we have passed the most difficult part of the icefall. It
looks like the icefall won't be as hard this year as it has been in previous
years. The Sherpas were very happy when I helped them, they even gave me a
rice talisman, sanctified by a very special Lama, to be protected from
avalanches, rocks, crevasses, etc. They told me that I had to carry it
always in my coat... There it is. Around my neck I carry my wedding ring and
an Iñaki medal, those are my real talismans.
I have to
leave you because we have to move the generator and we have to unplug
everything. The Base Camp organization has been a bit busy, everybody comes
to me for questions and complaints... I think there would be still a couple of
days before everything is stable, I have to be patient.
Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.