copyright Dan Mazur
Hello to all from Ama
Dablam Base camp!!
Today's a rest day for most
of us here - all team members and the sherpa staff came down off the mountain
to attend another puja ceremony at the temple (formerly our bouldering rock)
in the camp.
After last night's snow it
was a beautiful morning for the ceremony - bit early in the morning for some
of us to be drinking rackshi and chang, but good fun was had by all, and we
now have the most impressive display of prayer flags in camp of all the
Everyone who's still well has
been or is en route to Camp 1 so far. 3 groups developed in the week; first
Wanda, Dave, Marc, Fabrice, Herve, Paul (US) and Tom went up to ABC for the
night (star-gazing was a treat that night!), then on to camp1 to carry a load
the next day and back down.
Coming down we met Adam, Mel,
Paul (UK), Derek, Jordie, Anthony (aka T-Dog), Johann, Alan and Guan, most of
whom continued to Camp 1 for a load carry, then stayed in ABC for the night.
The remaining members - Rex, Jay, Mark, Jason, Ken, Vincent and Caroline
headed up this afternoon to stay in ABC.
Rest days are good - mostly
spent drinking tea, reading books and making up Yak jokes (more of that
later). Jason's been buzzing the camp with his kite - no fatalities yet. The
sherpa's are playing football outside - they totally suck though so most of us
can give them a game, even though we're coughing up a lung after running
around for 10 minutes at 4500m!! Jordie has a 'special' joke that he's been
telling every night - unrepeatable here, but it gets better on each telling -
we even got a dirty joke out of Wanda the other day! It was Jason's birthday
last night, so the sherpa cooks made him a cake which was pretty cool of them
(you try getting butter to melt at minus 10 degrees and it's snowing
Adam and Dave's top three Yak
jokes so far:
3:What's a Yak's
favorite liquor..........CognYAK (Cognac)
2: What do you call a
yak that wants to take over the world?.........a MegalomaniYAK
1: What do you call a
Yak bleeding to death by the side of the
.....Disclaimer: these jokes
are only funny above 4000m
Going up to Camp 1 tomorrow
(or ABC) - carry a load to 2 the next day then back down to BC to rest before
the big push!
Alan, Guan and Mel have gone
down to Pangboche for a rest day or two. Love and wishes to all of our loved
This is Dave, Adam, Paul and
Paul signing off from Ama Dablam Base Camp, and the SummitClimb team.
Thanks for publishing this on
the EverestNews.com website!
I was wondering if you could
post this French dispatch as we have many French members, and quite a large
French audience for EverestNews.com
Bonjour a tous, nous
profitons d'une journee de recuperation au camp de base pour donner quelques
nouvelles en francais. Nous avons fini notre premiere phase d'acclimatation
apres avoir atteint le camp 1 a 5700m et passe une nuit au camp de base avance.
La suite du programme: le 13 montee au camp 1 pour y passer la nuit, puis le
14 les choses serieuses commencent avec la premiere section technique pour
acceder au camp 2. Le 15 nous rejoindrons le camp de base pour quelques jours
de repos avant l'assaut final.
Aujourd'hui nous avons
participe a notre deuxieme Puja - ceremonie tibetaine presidee par un lama et
destinee a nous proteger pendant la duree de l'expedition. Cela a ete
l'occasion de decouvrir le Chang et le Rakshi (bierre et whisky locaux) sans
quoi un veritable Puja ne serait pas reussi.
Une mention speciale pour les
yaks qui ont permis d'acheminer notre equipement jusqu'au camp de base avance.
Ce sont des animaux de portage tres resistants mais qui ont tres mauvais
caractere - surtout lors des chargements/dechargement de materiel. Malgre leur
force, ils sont affectes par l'altitude et tirent la langue comme tout le
monde a l'approche des 5000m.
Mention aussi pour nos cooks
qui ont reussi a faire des pizzas et apple pie a 4600m ce qui a permis de nous
maintenir en bonne sante.
Nous esperons que le beau
temps va se maintenir de maniere a poursuivre notre programme car de
nombreuses expeditions vont arriver et le nombre d'emplacements pour les
tentes dans les camps d'altitude est limite.
Prochain dispatch en francais
dans 3-4 jours. A bientot.
Fabrice, Marc et Herve
Thanks EverestNews.com, for
your fantastic support of Himalayan climbing! - Dan
Summitclimb's LAST EXPEDITION
SUCCESSFULLY AND SAFELY CLIMBED AMA DABLAM, PLACING 14 MEMBERS AND 5 SHERPAS
ON THE SUMMIT.
This Autumn AMA DABLAM
LEADERSHIP TEAM: Dan Mazur is the expedition leader. He has recently been
running Glacier Schools, working at his building design job, along with doing
a bit of additional climbing and training. Dan has climbed Ama Dablam 5 times,
as well as leading and organizing more than 25 expeditions to the Himalaya,
with safe and succesful ascents of such peaks as Everest, Pumori, Mustagata,
Cho Oyu, K2, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Gasherbrum 1, and many, many
others. The other expedition leader Jay Reilly has recently been climbing peak
Khan Tengri in Kazakhstan. Jay has climbed Ama Dablam three times. Recently,
Jay has taken on a new roll at SummitClimb.com, that of training director for
our new leaders-in-training programme. The expedition will also be accompanied
by our leaders-in-training and assistant leaders.
AMA DABLAM, coming Soon!
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.