copyright Dan Mazur
International Ama Dablam
Expedition 2004 - Dispatch 9/Oct/04
Dear Everest News readers, We
are writing to you from our fabulous Basecamp at 4600m! We arrived on the 7th
- on schedule - and are now enjoying the first real day of beautiful blue sky
and sunshine. Apart from a few minor colds, everybody is feeling healthy and
strong, and gazing longingly up at the mighty mountain and her proud summit,
that towers 2.2 vertical kilometers above us.
An update - We arrived at the
small village of Pangboche on the evening of the 6th. Pangboche is home to
possibly one 0f Nepal's most famous Monasteries. This is where the scalp of
the legendary Yeti was held for so many years, until it's theft in the 80's.
Pangboche is also home to the Lama Geshe, who is a very old and powerful Lama.
He is also quite a character!
The whole team went to his
house for a "Puja" Ceremony, where the Lama blesses the expedition, our Prayer
Flags, and each member individually. He does this by tying a piece of red
string around our necks and then gently touching his forehead to ours. Many
members were surprised by this and started to laugh. The Lama joined in the
laughter, and it soon became very entertaining! Even Jangbu Sherpa, our Sirdar
(head man) couldn't stop laughing!
The walk up to Basecamp on
the 7th didn't take long and by noon, most people were here, settling into
their individual tents (one tent per person) and making them as at home as
possible - after all - we have to live in them for the next month!
We had a training day
yesterday at Basecamp. Shera Sherpa, Galu Sherpa and Jason Thomas, one of our
Leaders-in-Training, climbed about 100m above Basecamp and fixed some rope on
a rocky outcrop. Each member took turns in ascending the lines, then abseiling
back down again. After a well earned lunch, we were very lucky to have Mr
David Padwa from the American Alpine Club and co-inventor of the Gamow Bag
give a talk and demonstration on this wonderful piece of lifesaving equipment.
Jay then went through our High Altitude Medical Kit and oxygen. Dan then gave
us a cooking demonstration, and proceeded to concoct a vile broth, more
suited to casting spells than eating. Hmmmmm - I think we'll leave the cooking
to Krishna and Jai Bahdur!
Right now, there are 8 people
in Basecamp - most of the team opting to walk to Advanced Basecamp for the
day. In Basecamp are - Jason, Rex, Mark, Ken, Simon, Ray, Jay and Paul
Rowntree. Walking to ABC are - Wanda, Mel, Allen, Guan, Adam, Fabrice, Marc,
Herve, Derek, Pierre Jordache (Jordy), Johan, Anthony, Tom, Dan, Paul
Fitzpatrick, David, Till and Kay.
Vincent Boyer and Caroline
Wolberink have just arrived, as we are writing this.
We'll send more news in a few
days! We hope you are all well.
From all of us at
Summitclimb's LAST EXPEDITION
SUCCESSFULLY AND SAFELY CLIMBED AMA DABLAM, PLACING 14 MEMBERS AND 5 SHERPAS
ON THE SUMMIT.
This Autumn AMA DABLAM
LEADERSHIP TEAM: Dan Mazur is the expedition leader. He has recently been
running Glacier Schools, working at his building design job, along with doing
a bit of additional climbing and training. Dan has climbed Ama Dablam 5 times,
as well as leading and organizing more than 25 expeditions to the Himalaya,
with safe and succesful ascents of such peaks as Everest, Pumori, Mustagata,
Cho Oyu, K2, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Gasherbrum 1, and many, many
others. The other expedition leader Jay Reilly has recently been climbing peak
Khan Tengri in Kazakhstan. Jay has climbed Ama Dablam three times. Recently,
Jay has taken on a new roll at SummitClimb.com, that of training director for
our new leaders-in-training programme. The expedition will also be accompanied
by our leaders-in-training and assistant leaders.
AMA DABLAM, coming Soon!
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.