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  SummitClimb AMA DABLAM 2004: Basecamp at 4600m


Ama Dablam copyright Dan Mazur

Dispatch 7:  International Ama Dablam Expedition 2004 - Dispatch 9/Oct/04

Dear Everest News readers, We are writing to you from our fabulous Basecamp at 4600m! We arrived on the 7th - on schedule - and are now enjoying the first real day of beautiful blue sky and sunshine. Apart from a few minor colds, everybody is feeling healthy and strong, and gazing longingly up at the mighty mountain and her proud summit, that towers 2.2 vertical kilometers above us.

An update - We arrived at the small village of Pangboche on the evening of the 6th. Pangboche is home to possibly one 0f Nepal's most famous Monasteries. This is where the scalp of the legendary Yeti was held for so many years, until it's theft in the 80's. Pangboche is also home to the Lama Geshe, who is a very old and powerful Lama. He is also quite a character!

The whole team went to his house for a "Puja" Ceremony, where the Lama blesses the expedition, our Prayer Flags, and each member individually. He does this by tying a piece of red string around our necks and then gently touching his forehead to ours. Many members were surprised by this and started to laugh. The Lama joined in the laughter, and it soon became very entertaining! Even Jangbu Sherpa, our Sirdar (head man) couldn't stop laughing!

The walk up to Basecamp on the 7th didn't take long and by noon, most people were here, settling into their individual tents (one tent per person) and making them as at home as possible - after all - we have to live in them for the next month!

We had a training day yesterday at Basecamp. Shera Sherpa, Galu Sherpa and Jason Thomas, one of our Leaders-in-Training, climbed about 100m above Basecamp and fixed some rope on a rocky outcrop. Each member took turns in ascending the lines, then abseiling back down again. After a well earned lunch, we were very lucky to have Mr David Padwa from the American Alpine Club and co-inventor of the Gamow Bag give a talk and demonstration on this wonderful piece of lifesaving equipment. Jay then went through our High Altitude Medical Kit and oxygen. Dan then gave us a cooking demonstration, and proceeded to concoct a vile broth,  more suited to casting spells than eating. Hmmmmm - I think we'll leave the cooking to Krishna and Jai Bahdur!

Right now, there are 8 people in Basecamp - most of the team opting to walk to Advanced Basecamp for the day. In Basecamp are - Jason, Rex, Mark, Ken, Simon, Ray, Jay and Paul Rowntree. Walking to ABC are - Wanda, Mel, Allen, Guan, Adam, Fabrice, Marc, Herve, Derek, Pierre Jordache (Jordy), Johan, Anthony, Tom, Dan, Paul Fitzpatrick, David, Till and Kay.

Vincent Boyer and Caroline Wolberink have just arrived, as we are writing this.

We'll send more news in a few days! We hope you are all well.

From all of us at SummitClimb.com

Dispatches

Ama Dablam 2004 Home
Ama Dablam Dispatches
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Ama Dablam Route
Ama Dablam Team
Dan Mazur

Summitclimb's LAST EXPEDITION SUCCESSFULLY AND SAFELY CLIMBED AMA DABLAM, PLACING 14 MEMBERS AND 5 SHERPAS ON THE SUMMIT.

This Autumn AMA DABLAM LEADERSHIP TEAM: Dan Mazur is the expedition leader. He has recently been running Glacier Schools, working at his building design job, along with doing a bit of additional climbing and training. Dan has climbed Ama Dablam 5 times, as well as leading and organizing more than 25 expeditions to the Himalaya, with safe and succesful ascents of such peaks as Everest, Pumori, Mustagata, Cho Oyu, K2, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Gasherbrum 1, and many, many others. The other expedition leader Jay Reilly has recently been climbing peak Khan Tengri in Kazakhstan. Jay has climbed Ama Dablam three times. Recently, Jay has taken on a new roll at SummitClimb.com, that of training director for our new leaders-in-training programme. The expedition will also be accompanied by our leaders-in-training and assistant leaders.

AMA DABLAM, coming Soon!

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