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 SummitClimb AMA DABLAM 2004: Dispatch Six | |||||||||||||||||
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Dispatch 6: International Ama Dablam Expedition 2004 - Dispatch 5/OCT/04 Dear Everest News readers, This is Jay Reilly back on air, after a few days Firstly, I'd like to introduce our team in it's almost entirety. We are - Daniel Mazur - USA - Expedition Leader Jay Reilly - Australia - Expedition Leader Anthony Truscott - Australia - Leader-in-Training Jason Thomas - USA - Leader-in-Training Mark Jensen - Denmark and UK - Leader-in-Training Rex Dougherty - USA Mel Jones - UK Elselien TE Hennepe - Holland - Trekking Leader Steve Miscione - USA and India - Trekker Liz Stevens - USA and India - Trekker Tom Lannamann - USA Ken Tranter - UK Till Mohns - Germany Kay Thurley - Germany Guan-Jang Wu - Taiwan and USA Paul Fitzpatrick - USA David Carr - UK Derek Tole - UK Pierre Jordache - Quebec Herve Coron - France Allan Ewert - USA Johan Frankelius - Sweden Wanda Neste - Canada Adam Shepard - Australia Simon Pritchard - UK Ray Dolamore - UK Maximo Kausch - Argentina Paul Rowntree - UK Fabrice Imparato - France Marc Jelensperger - France Eyel Wigderson - Israel Vincent Boyer and Caroline Wolberink are yet to join our team in Basecamp. I'm writing to you from beautiful Namche Bazar at 3400m. We are on a rest and acclimatization day after having been on the trail now for two days. A little history - The 1st of October saw the arrival of the remainder of our team and our successful and delicious expedition dinner at the Tibetan restaurant. Ahhh....I love it when a plan comes together! Particularly a food one! On the 2nd, we had our expedition briefing, where the Leaders got up in front of everybody and explained how the expedition would work, how to stay safe and healthy on the trek, and all the equipment the members would need for the trek to our 4600m high Basecamp. We then went through everybody's climbing equipment, to ensure there were no nasty surprises at Basecamp. The mountain is not the place to discover you left home without your crampons! We flew to Lukla on schedule on the 3rd, which was a pleasant surprise! We didn't think we would make it, due to the backlog of people and cargo from the previous week's worth of bad weather. However, we flew and arrived safely in Lukla - although the plane that crash landed 5 days ago was beside the runway and was a stark reminder that flying around big mountains in small planes is maybe not THE safest way to travel.......But if it weren't for the adventure, we wouldn't be here! Oh - the other good thing is that all our cargo got there as well! I love Nepal! Just when you think nothing is going to happen - it does! And with remarkable efficiency! Everybody is feeling fine and dealing well with the altitude. At the moment, most people are walking around Namche, exploring the trinket shops, or eating pizza and apple pie from the fantastic bakeries that dot the town. The weather is still not so good though. Right now it is quite cold and damp here, with clouds drifting up the main street. (don't forget, we're almost at 4000m!) An interesting thing happened to me yesterday while crossing a bridge. I was walking behind a yak train and amongst some porters, when I heard an old lady's voice say "hello" from behind me. I kept walking, thinking that there's no reason for her to be trying to attract my attention, when suddenly - WHACK!!! She hit me with a big stick! Obviously to get my attention. I turned around and she gave me an apple! It was a very special moment. I didn't know this old lady, but she insisted on giving me an apple. These random acts of kindness are what make the people of Nepal so special.... We are off to Pangboche tomorrow, and then Basecamp the day after. We'll send more news from Basecamp. I hope you are all well. Thank you for reading, from all of us at Summitclimb.com.
Summitclimb's LAST EXPEDITION SUCCESSFULLY AND SAFELY CLIMBED AMA DABLAM, PLACING 14 MEMBERS AND 5 SHERPAS ON THE SUMMIT. This Autumn AMA DABLAM LEADERSHIP TEAM: Dan Mazur is the expedition leader. He has recently been running Glacier Schools, working at his building design job, along with doing a bit of additional climbing and training. Dan has climbed Ama Dablam 5 times, as well as leading and organizing more than 25 expeditions to the Himalaya, with safe and succesful ascents of such peaks as Everest, Pumori, Mustagata, Cho Oyu, K2, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Gasherbrum 1, and many, many others. The other expedition leader Jay Reilly has recently been climbing peak Khan Tengri in Kazakhstan. Jay has climbed Ama Dablam three times. Recently, Jay has taken on a new roll at SummitClimb.com, that of training director for our new leaders-in-training programme. The expedition will also be accompanied by our leaders-in-training and assistant leaders. AMA DABLAM, coming Soon!
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