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 SummitClimb AMA DABLAM 2004: Hello this is Jason Thomas and Tom Lannamann writing the final dispatch from Sunny Kathmandu. Summits, summits and more Summits! | |||||||||||||||||
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We spent the night in Namche enjoying beer, pizza and a good night sleep. In the morning many of there members spent time bargaining with the Tibetan traders before the long walk back to Lukla. The walk to Lukla was fantastic, it was fun to pass all the trekkers huffing and puffing up the hill to Namche, while we casually made our way down. Just a few weeks earlier that was us!! Rex, Jay, Mark and I (Jason) arrived in Lukla a little late; we were held up on the way by Mila, our head zopkio driver, who insisted we drop into his house for a glass of ‘chang’ (local beer). We didn’t all realize at first that here, cups of chang are bottomless. Anyway, the rest of the ‘trek’ (‘stumble’) passed by quickly, even though we were slow. In Lukla our cooks made us a final celebration dinner, great curried chicken, cake and of course more chang! Johan and Paul surprised us and showed up AFTER dinner - they had been trekking near Mt Everest and had had a long walk.
At five a.m. we rushed to the Lukla airport to check in for our seven thirty flight. We were excited because the weather was nice - we had thought we had avoided the dreaded Lukla wait for good weather. Of course our planes were late because Kathmandu was clouded in rather than Lukla. The last group finally left Lukla at two in the afternoon.
We all made it back to hotel, tried (and failed) to use up its entire hot water supply with REALLY LONG HOT showers for everybody, and then hit the town. After we gorged ourselves on great authentic Italian pizza at Fire and Ice, we were off to the famous bar Rum Doodle, where we took part in a long tradition of signing the summiteers names on a ‘Yeti Footprint’ that we then posted on the ceiling. After drinking the bar dry at Rum Doodle we moved on to Tom and Jerry’s for more of the same, except with louder music and therefore, more dancing. We called it an early night (of those who made it home, we carried to the last one to his bed at 3am) so as not to be too tired for the big celebration party, which is graciously being organized by Murari, our fantastic trekking agent, and his wife and extended family. Here the expedition members, Sherpas, and other staff will eat great food, as always, and probably drink copious amounts of soda pop and warm milk! Well, maybe we’ll just stick to what we’re good at – booze.
To all of you, thanks for following our dispatches,. We hope you will follow us again on our next adventure, to Pumori next spring. To all the members, thanks for a good trip and we look forward to climbing with you again.
AMA DABLAM SUMMITTEERS Dan Mazur October 19 - leader Tom Lannamann October 19 - leader Galu Sherpa October 19 Max Kausch October 20 Eyal Wigderson October 21 Mark Jensen October 22 - leader Paul Fitzpatrick October 22 Kay Thurley October 22 Marc Jelensperger October 22 Fabrice Imparato October 22 Hervé Coron October 22 Pierre ‘Jordie’ Jordache October 22 Ang Shera Sherpa October 22 Lhakpa Kong-le October 22 Jason Thomas October 23 - leader Till Mohns October 23 Wanda Neste October 23 Dave Carr October 23 Adam Shepard October 23 Paul Rowntree October 23 Simon Pritchard October 23 Derek Tole October 23 Tenzing [Makalu] Sherpa October 23 Furi Sherpa October 23 - superpowered cook boy! Also summitted Everest! Jay Reilly October 24 - leader Rex Dougherty October 24 Ken Tranter October 24 Guan Jang Wu October 24 - first Taiwanese ever to summit Ama Dablam Johan Frankelius October 24 Jangbu Sherpa October 24 - Sirdar (head climbing sherpa) Tenzing [Patale] Sherpa October 24 Anthony Truscott October 25 - leader Caroline Wolberink October 25 Vincent Boyer October 25 Elselien te Hennepe October 25 - trekking leader Phurba Tamang October 25 Lhakpa [Patale] Sherpa October 25 Nima Doma Sherpa October 25 - youngest woman ever to summit Ama Dablam
Other members: Ray Dolamore climber Mel Jones climber Alan Ewert climber Liz Stevens trekker Steve Miscione trekker
Our outstanding Basecamp Staff: Krishna Lama Head cook Jay Bahadur Shrestha Head cook Temba Sherpa Maitre d’ Mingma Sherpa Advanced base camp cook Pemba Sherpa Camp 1 cook Sangay Sherpa Sirdar for early and late groups Mila Sherpa Head zopkio driver (Lukla – Namche) Nima Lamu Sherpa Head yak driver (Namche – base camp) Murari Sharma Trekking agent And our team of cook boys: Tsapte, Mila Rai, Dorje Gurung, Wongchu, Gyalzen, Rinzing
Summitclimb's LAST EXPEDITION SUCCESSFULLY AND SAFELY CLIMBED AMA DABLAM, PLACING 14 MEMBERS AND 5 SHERPAS ON THE SUMMIT. This Autumn AMA DABLAM LEADERSHIP TEAM: Dan Mazur is the expedition leader. He has recently been running Glacier Schools, working at his building design job, along with doing a bit of additional climbing and training. Dan has climbed Ama Dablam 5 times, as well as leading and organizing more than 25 expeditions to the Himalaya, with safe and succesful ascents of such peaks as Everest, Pumori, Mustagata, Cho Oyu, K2, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Gasherbrum 1, and many, many others. The other expedition leader Jay Reilly has recently been climbing peak Khan Tengri in Kazakhstan. Jay has climbed Ama Dablam three times. Recently, Jay has taken on a new roll at SummitClimb.com, that of training director for our new leaders-in-training programme. The expedition will also be accompanied by our leaders-in-training and assistant leaders. AMA DABLAM, coming Soon!
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