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  SummitClimb AMA DABLAM 2004: Hello this is Jason Thomas and Tom Lannamann writing the final dispatch from Sunny Kathmandu. Summits, summits and more Summits!


Hello this is Jason Thomas and Tom Lannamann writing the final dispatch from Sunny Kathmandu. Everyone one is safe and sound, relaxing and recovering from an awesome climb and fun evening on the town. Our trek out from base camp was great, every step the air became thicker and thicker!!  All went well except for one small accident. One of our strong members David Carr slipped on a rock and broke his ankle. He wanted to walk out, but after we had one look at his foot we called in a helicopter.  We all wish David a speedy recovery.

We spent the night in Namche enjoying beer, pizza and a good night sleep. In the morning many of there members spent time bargaining with the Tibetan traders before the long walk back to Lukla.

The walk to Lukla was fantastic, it was fun to pass all the trekkers huffing and puffing up the hill to Namche, while we casually made our way down. Just a few weeks earlier that was us!!  Rex, Jay, Mark and I (Jason) arrived in Lukla a little late; we were held up on the way by Mila, our head zopkio driver, who insisted we drop into his house for a glass of ‘chang’ (local beer). We didn’t all realize at first that here, cups of chang are bottomless. Anyway, the rest of the ‘trek’ (‘stumble’) passed by quickly, even though we were slow.

In Lukla our cooks made us a final celebration dinner, great curried chicken, cake and of course more chang!  Johan and Paul surprised us and showed up AFTER dinner - they had been trekking near Mt Everest and had had a long walk.

 

At five a.m. we rushed to the Lukla airport to check in for our seven thirty flight. We were excited because the weather was nice - we had thought we had avoided the dreaded Lukla wait for good weather. Of course our planes were late because Kathmandu was clouded in rather than Lukla. The last group finally left Lukla at two in the afternoon.

 

We all made it back to hotel, tried (and failed) to use up its entire hot water supply with REALLY LONG HOT showers for everybody, and then hit the town. After we gorged ourselves on great authentic Italian pizza at Fire and Ice, we were off to the famous bar Rum Doodle, where we took part in a long tradition of signing the summiteers names on a ‘Yeti Footprint’ that we then posted on the ceiling. After drinking the bar dry at Rum Doodle we moved on to Tom and Jerry’s for more of the same, except with louder music and therefore, more dancing. We called it an early night (of those who made it home, we carried to the last one to his bed at 3am) so as not to be too tired for the big celebration party, which is graciously being organized by Murari, our fantastic trekking agent, and his wife and extended family. Here the expedition members, Sherpas, and other staff will eat great food, as always, and probably drink copious amounts of soda pop and warm milk! Well, maybe we’ll just stick to what we’re good at – booze.

 

To all of you, thanks for following our dispatches,. We hope you will follow us again on our next adventure, to Pumori next spring. To all the members, thanks for a good trip and we look forward to climbing with you again.

 

AMA DABLAM SUMMITTEERS

Dan Mazur                               October 19      - leader

Tom Lannamann                       October 19      - leader

Galu Sherpa                             October 19

Max Kausch                              October 20

Eyal Wigderson                         October 21

Mark Jensen                             October 22      - leader

Paul Fitzpatrick                         October 22

Kay Thurley                             October 22

Marc Jelensperger                    October 22

Fabrice Imparato                     October 22

Hervé Coron                            October 22

Pierre ‘Jordie’ Jordache              October 22

Ang Shera Sherpa                    October 22

Lhakpa Kong-le                        October 22

Jason Thomas                           October 23      - leader

Till Mohns                                October 23

Wanda Neste                           October 23

Dave Carr                                October 23

Adam Shepard                         October 23

Paul Rowntree                          October 23

Simon   Pritchard                      October 23

Derek Tole                               October 23

Tenzing [Makalu] Sherpa            October 23

Furi Sherpa                              October 23      - superpowered cook boy! Also summitted Everest!

Jay Reilly                                  October 24      - leader

Rex Dougherty                          October 24

Ken Tranter                              October 24

Guan Jang Wu                          October 24      - first Taiwanese ever to summit Ama Dablam

Johan Frankelius                       October 24

Jangbu Sherpa                          October 24      - Sirdar (head climbing sherpa)

Tenzing [Patale] Sherpa            October 24

Anthony Truscott                      October 25      - leader

Caroline Wolberink                     October 25

Vincent Boyer                          October 25

Elselien te Hennepe                   October 25      - trekking leader

Phurba Tamang                        October 25

Lhakpa [Patale] Sherpa             October 25

Nima Doma Sherpa                   October 25      - youngest woman ever to summit Ama Dablam

 

Other members:

Ray Dolamore                          climber

Mel Jones                                 climber

Alan Ewert                               climber            

Liz Stevens                               trekker

Steve Miscione             trekker

 

Our outstanding Basecamp Staff:

Krishna Lama                           Head cook

Jay Bahadur Shrestha               Head cook

Temba  Sherpa                         Maitre d’

Mingma Sherpa                        Advanced base camp cook

Pemba  Sherpa                         Camp 1 cook

Sangay Sherpa                         Sirdar for early and late groups

Mila Sherpa                              Head zopkio driver (Lukla – Namche)

Nima Lamu Sherpa                   Head yak driver (Namche – base camp)

Murari Sharma             Trekking agent

And our team of cook boys: Tsapte, Mila Rai, Dorje Gurung, Wongchu, Gyalzen, Rinzing

 

 

Ama Dablam copyright Dan Mazur

Dispatches

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Dan Mazur

Summitclimb's LAST EXPEDITION SUCCESSFULLY AND SAFELY CLIMBED AMA DABLAM, PLACING 14 MEMBERS AND 5 SHERPAS ON THE SUMMIT.

This Autumn AMA DABLAM LEADERSHIP TEAM: Dan Mazur is the expedition leader. He has recently been running Glacier Schools, working at his building design job, along with doing a bit of additional climbing and training. Dan has climbed Ama Dablam 5 times, as well as leading and organizing more than 25 expeditions to the Himalaya, with safe and succesful ascents of such peaks as Everest, Pumori, Mustagata, Cho Oyu, K2, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Gasherbrum 1, and many, many others. The other expedition leader Jay Reilly has recently been climbing peak Khan Tengri in Kazakhstan. Jay has climbed Ama Dablam three times. Recently, Jay has taken on a new roll at SummitClimb.com, that of training director for our new leaders-in-training programme. The expedition will also be accompanied by our leaders-in-training and assistant leaders.

AMA DABLAM, coming Soon!

Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

 






 

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