Jay reports in on summit success
Ama Dablam - October 22
Dispatch: This is Jay Reilly calling from the SummitClimb Ama Dablam 2004
expedition, with a dispatch for October 22nd. We have good news to report
today, our Group 1 summited today at approximately 1:30 this afternoon. Right
now, Group 2 are on their way to Camp 3, and Group 3 are now sitting in Camp
2, where it's a nice beautiful afternoon up here at 6000 meters and we're
brewing up some water and getting ready to head up to Camp 3 tomorrow, That's
the latest from the side of Ama Dablam, talk to you soon, goodbye. -Jay Reilly
copyright Dan Mazur
International Ama Dablam
Dear EverestNews.com readers,
Our apologies for the long
time between dispatches. A lot has happened in the last week. Firstly though -
this will be one of the final written dispatches for this expedition. Further
dispatches will be made by satellite telephone and recorded by
EverestNews.com. They will be available as an audio mp3 file for you to listen
to! Pretty exciting huh? I'll try to make them as interesting as possible and
not say "um" too many times! Go to www.everestnews.com and follow the links to
SummitClimb.com Ama Dablam 2004.
OK - back to the news. All
our members have finished their acclimatization climbs up to Camp 2 and are
either in the first stages of their summit bid, or the final stages of
resting. We have 4 teams this year:-
Team 1 - Mark Jensen
(Leader), Fabrice, Herve, Marc, Paul Fitzpatrick, Jordy, Kay and Till. Team 1
is climbing to Camp 2 today and are planning to summit on the 22nd.
Team 2 - Jason Thomas
(Leader), Adam, Dave, Wanda, Derek, Paul and Simon. Team 2 is climbing to Camp
1 today and are planning to summit on the 23rd.
Team 3 - Jay Reilly (Leader),
Rex, Ken, Guan, Johan. Team 3 is resting in ABC today and are planning to
summit on the 24th.
Team 4 - Anthony Truscott
(leader) Elselien, Vincent, Caroline. Team 4 is resting in BC today and are
planning to summit on the 25th.
In other news, Dan and Tom
summited on the 19th at approx 11.30am, and are now safely back in Basecamp.
Max summited today at approx 12.00pm and is on his way to Camp 1. Bad news for
another team on the mountain -on the 18th, 8 people climbed to the summit in
perfect weather, only to be turned back 200m from the summit because the
leader forgot to bring enough rope to fix the whole route! Unfortunately they
had no time for a second try, because their yaks were coming the very next
morning. Needless to say, the team was very upset, and we send our condolences
to them. Luckily for us, our 6 leaders and nine Sherpas have worked slowly,
carefully, and diligently, and have now fixed and refixed and inspected every
inch of the route from camp 1 to the summit and there are now more than 2500
meters of top quality climbing rope in place from camp 1 all the way to the
summit, and we are proud to say that the route is in the best shape it has
ever been, thanks to Sterling Ropes!
Some minor emergencies here
also. Pemba Sherpa, our camp 1 veteran cook had his hand crushed by a rock
while he was making a new dining area in Camp 1.
He suffered some cuts on his
fingers, deserving 7 stitches and a suspected broken middle finger. A member
of the Basque Expedition suffered quite severe HACE and came staggering into
our Basecamp. He was treated with an injection of Dexamethasone and sent down
with some teammates. We are sad to say farewell to Alan Ewert. He left the
expedition a few days ago with suspected HAPE. Thanks to our team Doctor and
strong climber from Bristol, Derek Tole, of the Bristol Eye Infirmary, for a
fine job in patching people back together during our climb. We hope to bring
you more news in a few days time with summit success from Team 1 and further
updates on the other teams, and thank you for following our expedition.
From Jay Reilly, Daniel
Mazur, and all of us at SummitClimb.com.
Summitclimb's LAST EXPEDITION
SUCCESSFULLY AND SAFELY CLIMBED AMA DABLAM, PLACING 14 MEMBERS AND 5 SHERPAS
ON THE SUMMIT.
This Autumn AMA DABLAM
LEADERSHIP TEAM: Dan Mazur is the expedition leader. He has recently been
running Glacier Schools, working at his building design job, along with doing
a bit of additional climbing and training. Dan has climbed Ama Dablam 5 times,
as well as leading and organizing more than 25 expeditions to the Himalaya,
with safe and succesful ascents of such peaks as Everest, Pumori, Mustagata,
Cho Oyu, K2, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Gasherbrum 1, and many, many
others. The other expedition leader Jay Reilly has recently been climbing peak
Khan Tengri in Kazakhstan. Jay has climbed Ama Dablam three times. Recently,
Jay has taken on a new roll at SummitClimb.com, that of training director for
our new leaders-in-training programme. The expedition will also be accompanied
by our leaders-in-training and assistant leaders.
AMA DABLAM, coming Soon!
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.