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 SummitClimb AMA DABLAM 2004: Dispatch One | |||||||||||||||||
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Dispatch One: International Ama Dablam Expedition 2004 Dispatch 1 - 28/Sept/04 Dear EverestNews.com, This is Jay Reilly, Expedition Leader of Summitclimb.com's 2004 Ama Dablam Expedition. I'm writing to you from beautiful Kathmandu, Nepal. Our expedition has officially kicked off today with the arrival of our first members, Rex Dougherty from Park City, USA and Leader-in-Training candidate, Anthony Truscott from Melbourne, Australia. We have a large team this year consisting of approximately 30, mainly climbers and trekkers! In order to cater for such a large group, our awesome Sherpa Staff, this year under the leadership of Jangbu Sherpa, have already shopped for and packed our 2500kg of food and 1000kg of equipment. The plan is to send our food, equipment, and some staff to Lukla, so they can get a headstart on setting up our Basecamp at 4600m. This plan is being continuously foiled by bad weather in Lukla. Planes simply can't land on the small, ridgetop airstrip in bad weather! However, we live in hope for another flight attempt tomorrow! Thus far, we have been enjoying the sights, some familiar, some new, of Kathmandu. Our day today started with a pleasant stroll to Swayabunath, or the Monkey Temple, as it's affectionately known. This is one of my favorite places in Kathmandu - perched high on a hill above the city, away from the noise of traffic, bells ringing, Monks chanting......It's most peaceful. Festivals are always happening in Nepal, and today is the Indra Jarta Festival. Thousands of people crowd Kathmandu's Durbar Square hoping to catch a glimpse of the Kumari, the living goddess. This is the only day she comes out of her house. She is paraded before the masses on top a massive chariot pulled by many men. It is a great occasion! Unfortunately for us, we arrived too late and didn't see her, but there were still thousands of people gathered in the square. The crowds were simply amazing. There was literally no space to walk, as a virtual sea of people seethed back and forth. An incredible experience indeed! We hope you are well and thank you for reading our dispatches. From all of us at Summitclimb.com
Summitclimb's LAST EXPEDITION SUCCESSFULLY AND SAFELY CLIMBED AMA DABLAM, PLACING 14 MEMBERS AND 5 SHERPAS ON THE SUMMIT. This Autumn AMA DABLAM LEADERSHIP TEAM: Dan Mazur is the expedition leader. He has recently been running Glacier Schools, working at his building design job, along with doing a bit of additional climbing and training. Dan has climbed Ama Dablam 5 times, as well as leading and organizing more than 25 expeditions to the Himalaya, with safe and succesful ascents of such peaks as Everest, Pumori, Mustagata, Cho Oyu, K2, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Gasherbrum 1, and many, many others. The other expedition leader Jay Reilly has recently been climbing peak Khan Tengri in Kazakhstan. Jay has climbed Ama Dablam three times. Recently, Jay has taken on a new roll at SummitClimb.com, that of training director for our new leaders-in-training programme. The expedition will also be accompanied by our leaders-in-training and assistant leaders. AMA DABLAM, coming Soon!
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