Mountain Madness Cho Oyu 2004 Expedition

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Welcome again to Mountain Madness’ annual Cho Oyu Post monsoon expedition! We are lucky to have a great bunch of folks journeying with us, and we are sure to have many memorable and challenging times ahead!

The Tibetan’s have a folktale about Cho Oyu (meaning Turquoise God). The story goes that Cho Oyu fell in love with the Goddess Chomolungma (Everest), but was broken hearted when she married Makalu, her closer neighbor to the southeast. Cho Oyu never married and turned to face the opposite way of his beloved Chomolungma.

First summited in 1954 by a small Austrian/Tibetan expedition, Cho Oyu is technically easier than most other “8000’ers,” making it a great first 8000-meter peak for climbers with previous high altitude climbing experience.

Our Cho Oyu team will start in Kathmandu, Nepal. We will meet with our Nepal office to complete last-minute paperwork, organize our gear, and enjoy the local customs & culture of Kathmandu before flying to Lhasa, the ancient capital city of Tibet. Lhasa was also once home to the 14th Dalai Lama who fled to India in 1959 due to the Chinese Invasion. From there we drive the spectacular route from Lhasa to the village of Tingri, our final rugged and rural village before moving onto to the Cho Oyu trailhead. Our group will tour many of the Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and palaces as we acclimatize and journey to the trailhead where we spend two nights before trekking to ABC, Advanced Base Camp. On this two-day journey we cross rivers and hike over rocky moraine before we arrive at ABC where we spend 4 weeks. Advanced Base Camp (ABC) will be established at 5800 meters (19,024 feet), Camp 1 at 6500 meters, Camp II at 7100 meters (23,288 feet), and Camp III at 7400 meters (24,272 feet). The Mountain Madness Team will climb Cho Oyu via the West Ridge/West Face.  After descent, we take an alternative overland route back to Kathmandu via Zhangmu.

Our 2004 Cho Oyu team:

Kay LeClaire – Spokane, WA . Kay is currently pursuing the Seven Summits of the world. Having climbed 5 out of the 7, she has Carstensz and Everest left on her list. Cho Oyu will prepare Kay for her climb of Everest next spring.

Bob Taylor – San Diego, CA. Bob has a wealth of climbing experience including successful climbs of Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Orizaba, many North American classics and numerous summits in the Bolivian Andes. Last summer he smoked up the north ridge of Mt. Baker.

Brad Skidmore – Ft Thomas, KY. Brad has reached the summit of Aconcagua. He enjoys running when not working as a physician back home in Kentucky.

Moira Smith - Vancouver, B. C. Moira has climbed 6 out of the 7 summits. Her climb of Cho Oyu will prepare her for her next objective, Mt. Everest. She enjoys climbing. mountaineering, ski touring and rock climbing in North America . As a geologist, Moira has traveled around the world including engaging in field work with geological mapping in the Northern Coast Range and St. Elias Range in British Columbia.

Rick Grey – London, United Kingdom. Our guides say Rick is normally the strongest one on their rope team. Rick trains by running, swimming and playing squash. He’s successful climbed many of the Ecuador volcanoes including Chimborazo.  

Elizabeth Ayres – Tucson, AZ. Elizabeth will be trekking in with our Cho Oyu climbing team. She has climbed numerous peaks around the world including Island Peak in Nepal, Mt. Blanc in Europe, the Eiger in Switzerland and various classic alpine summits and rock climbing crags around the US. She enjoys swimming, hiking and climbing.

Guides:

Michael O'Donnell – Ouray, CO. Michael is our Cho Oyu expedition leader. A certified AMGA Alpine Mountain guide, his guiding career started in 1971 and he is considered one of the world’s most respected mountain guides and world-class explorers. Michael has guided throughout the world in all disciplines of climbing, from difficult ice and rock routes to moderate alpine glaciated peaks. He successfully summitted Mt. Everest and guided the first blind climber to the top. Michael is also an acclaimed team builder and corporate coach. In addition to his wealth of experience, Michael brings along a sense of humor and abundance of energy with every trip he leads!

Casey Henley – Bend, OR. Casey will be our Cho Oyu assistant guide. He grew up in the Canadian Rockies where he learned to ice, rock, and alpine climb as well as backcountry ski. He is a graduate of the UCC Guide Program, and has guided throughout Western Canada, the United States, Asia, and in South America. He has numerous ascents to his credit such as Ama Dablam, Denali, Mt. Logan (with ski descent), Mt. St. Elias Range, Aconcagua, Canadian Rockies, and ascents in Patagonia. Being in remote and wild mountain areas is a passion of his that he loves to share with people. He is known for his mellow, friendly teaching style and demeanor.

We wish our team a safe, successful and memorable trip!

Christine Boskoff

Mountain Madness, Inc.

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   acclimatization

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