2004 Expedition to Kunlun Shan: Update 6

After our nightly meal of veggies, noodles and eggs, Annie took her turn singing us her favorite rendition of Blue Moon.  After the applause had subsided we all noticed that the afternoon glacier run off had swollen the rivers to twice its size and was consuming the bridge to our tents.  Gerard and crew did their best to hack away with the pick ax at the river bed, attempting to divert the flow but eventually we got everyone to safety and turned in for the night. –Brook

Update August 6:  Since we don’t have any maps for the Dahong-Liutan a lot of reconnaissance will be needed to determine our ideal route to the tops of these mountains.  Brook, Trevor and myself left base camp at noon local time with our high camp food and fuel to deposit in a cash up the canyon…to ease the burden of getting gear to 19,000 feet.  I was setting the pace and apparently was going to fast, although I thought the guys were doing great.  We made it all the way up the valley when it turned left to reveal a 150-200 foot tall glacier.  We decided to skirt the right edge of the glacier which we felt was a little dicey.  It was sketchy climbing with brittle shale rocks on our right and glacial walls and towers on our left.  Brook, Trevor and I pushed to new record highs for all of us - over17,000 feet.  We turned around and headed back to base camp where I drew a map of our findings.  The evening serenade was done by Karen who chose I’ll Stop the World and Melt with You. - Toma

© Petri Kaipiainen

As last minute packing and preparations are underway in London, Tokyo, Anchorage, California, Colorado, and Connecticut, team members are getting ready to fly to Kashgar via Beijing and Urumqi, arriving on 25 and 26 July.  After final preparations in Kashgar, our convoy of three Toyota Landcruisers and one 6x6 rugged military vehicle will head southeast on the Silk Road towards Yecheng. 

From there we will head south onto the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, through Mazar, to our last outpost of civilization in the military village of Dahongliutan.  We expect to pass through on 01 August, assuming there are no issues with our military permits, and no vehicle trouble on the climbs through the 5000m passes of the Kunlun West.

Last minute information is trickling in from Kashgar… A Japanese expedition just came back after an unsuccessful attempt on Aksai Chin I, which had an unconfirmed summit by the Japanese in 1997.  They report that the military road we hope to follow does indeed exist, and though in rough shape, should get us within 10km of Base Camp.  By the time we set up Base Camp, we expect to have been on the road for five or six days.

Armed with coordinates and advice from previous expeditions, we will have to take our chances discovering the differences between the maps and the actual terrain. Thin blue hairlines on the map can easily turn out to be impassable glacial runoff. The maps also neglect to indicate the difference between surfaces such as mud and quicksand, both of which will eagerly swallow any vehicle up to its axles.

While exploring the unknown peaks of the Aksai Chin West, the team will have limited contact with the outside world.  A decision was made to leave the laptop behind, so while there will be no live coverage with photos and video, we will be sending messages from our Iridium satellite phone for text coverage right here on EverestNews.com

2004 Expedition to Kunlun Shan

It is with intrepid spirit of adventure and respect that the Kunlun 2004 expedition is being planned.  What started out as a harebrained idea discussed over breakfast in the English Lakes will become a reality when we drive across the edge of the Taklimakan Desert to be dropped off for almost a month's worth of unsupported exploration.

For nearly a year, we have been researching the possibilities of an expedition to more remote regions of the world to summit unclimbed peaks. Research has shown that there are 230 peaks over 6000m in the Kunlun Shan and that fewer than 50 of those have ever been climbed!

The goal of the Kunlun 2004 expedition is to explore several unknown peaks of the Aksai Chin plateau with the motives of first ascents of 6000m peaks and scientific research in the form of geological survey data collection.

After purchasing several political maps of Xinjiang Province, eventually the correct aviation charts for the area were found. These Operational Navigation Charts (ONC's) are at a scale of 1:500,000, and Tactical Pilotage Charts in the same series are at 1:250,000. Though one would never consider such a scale for something like Denali or Rainier, it the best information that is publicly available for such an unexplored region. The charts are quite detailed but meant for aircraft flying over the region rather than mountaineers on the ground. As they are based entirely on satellite data, they have disclaimers that peak heights may be off by as much as 1000 feet!

Our project is original because of our climbing style, and the remoteness of the goal. We will drive overland nearly 1000km from the nearest airport in Kashgar, and once we are dropped off at base camp, we will be completely unsupported for nearly three weeks. Because of the altitude and isolation, there are no options of retreat, and though we will have communications, any rescue would be nearly a week away.

 

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