Txikon, Javier Txikon and Igor Astondoa, the three vizcainos climbers who were
in the group of Iñaki Ochoa de Olza and don't listen the recommendations of
the navarrese trying to make the summit of Cho Oyu alone and without the
logical process of acclimatization, are coming down today 18th from 7.550
meters because physical problems, not very serious it seems, but without the
condition even to begin the climb from 7.550 meters to the summit. The three
climbers desisted even yesterday to continue his adventure because of head
pains and now they are coming back to the Advanced Base Camp. In other aspect,
the weather seems to be worst next five days, with a big window beginning in
navarrese climber Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, who has summitted in May Makalu and K2
in July, is now trying Cho Oyu! He summited several 800 meter peaks including
Inaki Ochoa de Olza communicates from Cho Oyu (8.201
meters) that the expedition that he guides has broken in two groups
navarrese climber Inaki Ochoa de Olza, with nine 8000+ and one repetition to
Cho Oyu, wants to communicate with these lines the next thing:
“I`m now at 6.400 meters in Camp I of Cho Oyu guiding a group of close friends
from Navarra and Vizcaya. All of them, without the exception of Alex Txikon,
from Lemoa, who climbed Broad Peak in 2003 and Makalu in 2004, don't have
experience in eigththousands mountains”.
“We arrived at Cho Oyu Base Camp, located at 4.850 meters, Sunday 5th of
September and we move to Advanced Base Camp (5.650 meters) last Friday 10th.
During the last days we have been acclimatizing and some of the members of the
group, the more of them, have climbed to Camp I, beginning the process of
acclimatizing that consists in going winning altitude and then came back to
Base Camp for rest and prepare well the organism. The plan was to continue
doing this until Camp II (7.000 meters) and then, the climbers who will be in
perfect conditions could began the final assault 23rd of September by the West
Face installing Camp III at 7.400 or 7.500 meters where pass the last night
until the summit push, don't using artificial oxygen at any moment of the
“Now are exactly 2 pm Nepal time 17th of September and, as I have said, I
find myself at 6.400 meters. But I find myself in a very unpleasant situation
for someone that, like me, has accepted, very happy, the responsibility of
guide, advise and, of course, ordain if it was necessary to a group of
friends. Well, there are three climbers that are part of he group that I guide
that don't agree no one of my recommendations and are now going for the summit
and are at 7.550 meters. Maybe tomorrow 18th they will try to made the summit.
They are the vizcainos Alex Txikon, his brother Javier Txikon and Igor
“As principal responsible of the group, this attitude results inadmissible to
me, because I consider this a very big risk for the three, especially for
Javier Txikon and Igor Astondoa. They only have passed six days in the base
camp and everybody knows that this space of time is very short for assault a
mountain like this when you came practically from the sea level. Alex, by his
part, is better acclimatized after his expeditions to Makalu and K2, but
likewise, I think he is running on risk, lower than Javier and Igor, but a
risk at the end”.
“In this situation and so that no one of them have listened to all my words
and explanations and to all the logic that has been installed in the alpinism
in the last 80 years, I have no more way that to tell that I don't fell
responsible of the result of his intent, an intent that, I hope, could finish
in a positive result in the alpinistic level and, much more important than
this and the thing that I really expect, in the physical level. But, I insist,
I consider very dangerous his attitude and, like guide, I find myself in the
fulfilment of tell that I'm not feel responsible of what the future could
bring to the three climbers, I hope that exit and health after his push, no
question about it. Now I'm only feel responsible of the result of the other
members of the expedition: the navarrese Patxi Viguria, Mertxe Orofino,
Cristina Orofino, Miguel Ángel Laguardia, Ignacio Barrio y Óscar Fernández;
and the vizcaínos Aitor Iparaguirre y Mikel Díez”.
Ochoa de Olza, Cho Oyu mountain (Nepal), 17th September of 2004
after arriving to advanced base camp (5.650 meters), Iñaki Ochoa de Olza and
the group of close friends that the navarrese is guiding have installed Camp I
(6.400 meters) in the west face of Cho Oyu. Now, they plans to continue
working on the mountain and install Camp II at 7.000 meters and then Camp III
at 7.400. This last camp only will be used in the final push. Iñaki plans that
they could began the summit attack 23 of September.
Ochoa de Olza, who has climbed nine 8000+
mountains, is now guiding a group of close friends who are in his first
experience in this kind of mountains. They are: the navarrese Mertxe Orofino
Iturgaiz, Cristina Orofino Iturgaiz, Miguel Ángel Laguardia Asiáin, Ignacio
Barrio Fernández, Patxi Viguria Guerendiáin and Óscar Fernández Landa and the
basque climbers Javier Txikon, Igor Astondoa, Aitor Iparaguirre, Mikel Díez
and Alex Txikon, the other climber with more experience in this kind of
mountains. In fact, Alex has summitted Broad Peak in 2003 and Makalu in 2004.
They plans to attempt the summit at the end of September.
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