news of the Dutch Gasherbrum Expedition 2004: 28 July, 14.00 hours: Will we
climb GII? The target of the expedition was to climb both GI and GII. The GI
was the main target, because it wasn’t yet climbed by a Dutchman and it is
technically more challenging than GII. They achieved their main target will
leave the GII for what it is, mainly because of the weather forecasts and the
little time that is remaining.
update from G1.
contacted us again from camp 3 this afternoon. Despite the tough descent
through thick snow, the Dutch team reached camp 3 safely. During this
conversation Katja could tell us a bit more about the actual climb. The team
had indeed started around 0200 / 0215 hours from camp 3 to try to summit.
There was barely any wind and the visibility was also very good, with a clear
sky. But the last part of the climb was still very heavy. Especially the thick
pack of snow – at some places at hip level – caused many difficulties and took
a lot of time. There were passages up to 60 percent steep, so they had
to proceed very cautious.
The summit was reached at
1205 hours by the complete team of climbers that had left from camp, so all 3
women and 10 men were on the summit at this time.
After the various pictures
were taken and everyone had enjoyed the perfect panorama, they quickly started
to descend to camp 3. During the descent there were quite a lot of
difficulties. Katja will inform us about these at a later moment, probably at
Tuesday, although the first pictures of the summit will be on-line on Monday.
The team will then also decide over climbing G2, which will depend of the
Information translated from
http://www.gasherbrum.nl/ by Laurent Zuijdwijk for EverestNews.com
the Dutch Gasherbrum Expedition 2004 called directly from the summit of G1 to
tell she reached the top. The international team on G1 reached the top of the
mountain on 12.05 hours local time. They started their ascend at 0200 hours
and reached the top after a very difficult and heavy climb. During their
ascend they had to overcome some very difficult parts, but finally they
achieved their goal. More information is expected during the day when the team
reaches camp 3.
Information translated from
http://www.gasherbrum.nl/ by Laurent Zuijdwijk for
Staartjes was a member of the OTT expedition that
reached the summit in Spring 99. She was the 47th
woman to Summit Everest. She reached the Summit via
the standard South-East Ridge route on 5/13/99. She
is the first and only Dutch woman to Summit
climbed Cho Oyu in 1998 in an all Dutch expedition,
led by Rene de Bos. This Summer she is attempting
Gasherbrum 1 & 2.
Update 6/19/2004: Dear
Here some news about the Dutch Gasherbrum 1 & 2
Expedition of the couple Henk Wesselius and Katja
have arrived in BC (5150 m) on 12th of June
- We have established camp 1 (6000) m yesterday (18th
- We will go up again to establish camp 2 on G1 on 21st
- We will first climb G1 and cooperate with the Spanish
team of Carlos Pauner to fix the ropes in the Japanese
Kind regards, Katja Staartjes
More in Dutch here:
Last year Henk and Katja also summited
Ama Dablam. Henk stood before on Alpamayo and Khan
Tengri. Everest North side he reached 8600 m (in 2000).
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.