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  Dutch summit G1!: Dutch Gasherbrum 1 & 2 Expedition


Update: The latest news of the Dutch Gasherbrum Expedition 2004: 28 July, 14.00 hours: Will we climb GII? The target of the expedition was to climb both GI and GII. The GI was the main target, because it wasn’t yet climbed by a Dutchman and it is technically more challenging than GII. They achieved their main target will leave the GII for what it is, mainly because of the weather forecasts and the little time that is remaining.

Update 7/25/2004: The last update from G1.

Katja contacted us again from camp 3 this afternoon. Despite the tough descent through thick snow, the Dutch team reached camp 3 safely. During this conversation Katja could tell us a bit more about the actual climb. The team had indeed started around 0200 / 0215 hours from camp 3 to try to summit. There was barely any wind and the visibility was also very good, with a clear sky. But the last part of the climb was still very heavy. Especially the thick pack of snow – at some places at hip level – caused many difficulties and took a lot of time. There were passages up to 60 percent steep, so they had to proceed very cautious.

The summit was reached at 1205 hours by the complete team of climbers that had left from camp, so all 3 women and 10 men were on the summit at this time.

After the various pictures were taken and everyone had enjoyed the perfect panorama, they quickly started to descend to camp 3. During the descent there were quite a lot of difficulties. Katja will inform us about these at a later moment, probably at Tuesday, although the first pictures of the summit will be on-line on Monday. The team will then also decide over climbing G2, which will depend of the weather forecast. 

Information translated from http://www.gasherbrum.nl/ by Laurent Zuijdwijk for EverestNews.com

Update 7/25/2004: Katja from the Dutch Gasherbrum Expedition 2004 called directly from the summit of G1 to tell she reached the top. The international team on G1 reached the top of the mountain on 12.05 hours local time. They started their ascend at 0200 hours and reached the top after a very difficult and heavy climb. During their ascend they had to overcome some very difficult parts, but finally they achieved their goal. More information is expected during the day when the team reaches camp 3.  

Information translated from http://www.gasherbrum.nl/ by Laurent Zuijdwijk for EverestNews.com

Katja Staartjes was a member of the OTT expedition that reached the summit in Spring 99. She was the 47th woman to Summit Everest. She reached the Summit via the standard South-East Ridge route on 5/13/99. She is the first and only Dutch woman to Summit Everest. 

She climbed Cho Oyu in 1998 in an all Dutch expedition, led by Rene de Bos. This Summer she is attempting Gasherbrum 1 & 2.

Update 6/19/2004: Dear EverestNews.com, Here some news about the Dutch Gasherbrum 1 & 2 Expedition of the couple Henk Wesselius and Katja Staartjes.

- We have arrived in BC (5150 m) on 12th of June
- We have established camp 1 (6000) m yesterday (18th June)
- We will go up again to establish camp 2 on G1 on 21st of June
- We will first climb G1 and cooperate with the Spanish team of Carlos Pauner to fix the ropes in the Japanese couloir

Kind regards, Katja Staartjes

More in Dutch here: www.gasherbrum.nl

Last year Henk and Katja also summited Ama Dablam. Henk stood before on Alpamayo and Khan Tengri. Everest North side he reached 8600 m (in 2000).

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