Dutch summit G1!: Dutch Gasherbrum 1 & 2 Expedition

Update 7/25/2004: The last update from G1.

Katja contacted us again from camp 3 this afternoon. Despite the tough descent through thick snow, the Dutch team reached camp 3 safely. During this conversation Katja could tell us a bit more about the actual climb. The team had indeed started around 0200 / 0215 hours from camp 3 to try to summit. There was barely any wind and the visibility was also very good, with a clear sky. But the last part of the climb was still very heavy. Especially the thick pack of snow – at some places at hip level – caused many difficulties and took a lot of time. There were passages up to 60 percent steep, so they had to proceed very cautious.

The summit was reached at 1205 hours by the complete team of climbers that had left from camp, so all 3 women and 10 men were on the summit at this time.

After the various pictures were taken and everyone had enjoyed the perfect panorama, they quickly started to descend to camp 3. During the descent there were quite a lot of difficulties. Katja will inform us about these at a later moment, probably at Tuesday, although the first pictures of the summit will be on-line on Monday. The team will then also decide over climbing G2, which will depend of the weather forecast. 

Information translated from http://www.gasherbrum.nl/ by Laurent Zuijdwijk for EverestNews.com

Update 7/25/2004: Katja from the Dutch Gasherbrum Expedition 2004 called directly from the summit of G1 to tell she reached the top. The international team on G1 reached the top of the mountain on 12.05 hours local time. They started their ascend at 0200 hours and reached the top after a very difficult and heavy climb. During their ascend they had to overcome some very difficult parts, but finally they achieved their goal. More information is expected during the day when the team reaches camp 3.  

Information translated from http://www.gasherbrum.nl/ by Laurent Zuijdwijk for EverestNews.com

Katja Staartjes was a member of the OTT expedition that reached the summit in Spring 99. She was the 47th woman to Summit Everest. She reached the Summit via the standard South-East Ridge route on 5/13/99. She is the first and only Dutch woman to Summit Everest.  She climbed Cho Oyu in 1998 in an all Dutch expedition, led by Rene de Bos. This Summer she is attempting Gasherbrum 1 & 2.

Update 6/19/2004: Dear EverestNews.com, Here some news about the Dutch Gasherbrum 1 & 2 Expedition of the couple Henk Wesselius and Katja Staartjes.

- We have arrived in BC (5150 m) on 12th of June
- We have established camp 1 (6000) m yesterday (18th June)
- We will go up again to establish camp 2 on G1 on 21st of June
- We will first climb G1 and cooperate with the Spanish team of Carlos Pauner to fix the ropes in the Japanese couloir

Kind regards, Katja Staartjes

More in Dutch here: www.gasherbrum.nl

Last year Henk and Katja also summited Ama Dablam. Henk stood before on Alpamayo and Khan Tengri. Everest North side he reached 8600 m (in 2000).

Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

  Altitude pre-
   acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
   Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Outdoor Designs

   Pelican

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
   Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Trekking Poles
   Ushba
   and more here