I Trip report 2003
Jorge Egocheaga, Japanese Couloir (G1, 6650m, 25. June
Eleven expeditions had
permits for 8,068m Gasherbrum I, a number of which also planned to climb
Gasherbrum II, which shares the same Base Camp. On the 5th, 23rd and 26th July
a total of 19 climbers were successful. All climbed via the Normal Route up
the Japanese Couloir. These included one Nepalese Sherpa and one Pakistani
with a Korean expedition, the very experienced Ukraine mountaineer, Vladislav
Terzyul, the Benet/Meroi/Vuerich combo on the 26th just seven days after their
ascent of Gasherbrum II and the Spanish Basque Edurne Pasaban, who was
completing her sixth 8,000m peak. Pasaban, born in August 1973, started Alpine
climbing when she was 16 and appears to have a very modest CV of ascents. In
the mid 1990s she climbed several unremarkable non-technical ascents in Peru
and Ecuador, such as Chimborazo, but from 1988-2001 attempted both Everest and
Dhaulagiri twice, reaching 8,600m on the North Side of Everest without oxygen.
The world's highest peak was climbed from the south in 2001 and both Makalu
and Cho Oyu in 2002. In the spring of 2003 she reached the summit of Lhotse.
With her ability at altitude now well-proven, Pasaban is close to becoming the
premier living female in the realm of 8,000m-peak collectors. Only the
American, Christine Boskoff, has the same number of ascents, as did Chantal
Mauduit before she died. The record is still held by the famous Polish
mountaineer, Wanda Rutkiewicz, who had achieved eight before her untimely
death on Kangchenjunga in 1992.
Sadly there were four deaths on the mountain. On the 17th July the experienced
Ukrainian climber, Vladimir Pestrikov, sustained a bad injury at c6,000m on
the South Gasherbrum glacier, when he and several other members were caught in
an avalanche. Although his team-mates were able to evacuate him to Camp 1 at
5,600m, from where he was very quickly picked up by helicopter and flown to
Skardu Hospital, he died later the same day. This Ukrainian team, which
included Terzyul as mentioned above, was planning to climb the South West Face
Direct, but changed to the Normal Route after the accident. The other two
deaths occurred to the first summit party. Josť Manuel Buenaga from Asturia in
Spain and Nancy-Noemi Silvestrini, the first Argentinean women to summit, were
descending on the 5th July when they became unwell. Although Silvestrini was
rescued, while she was being lowered down the mountain it appears she was
dropped. At the time of writing there are few details of this or the accident
that occurred later in the season to Mohammad Oraiz, a Pakistan porter on an
(unsuccessful) Iranian expedition, who is known to have died. The ascents
reported above mean that Gasherbrum I has now been climbed 195 times.
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.