Czech South-West Face of Shishapangma 2004 Expedition

Dispatch One: The summer is almost over and somewhere far from here, the monsoon is practically over as well. Which means that it is time to go back to the hills.

We are leaving on Thursday, September 16, 04. There are four of us. Four good friends who know each other from many past trips and who are going to climb high and live long.

We are heading to South-West Face of Shishapangma, a big wall on one of the 14 highest mountains on the world.

Why South - West Face, why British route and why alpine style ?

Among four of us, we climbed to the summits of 12 - 8000 meter peaks. Zdenek and Radek reached 4 of those each, Miska reached one and I reached 3 peaks. All of these ascents have been made without use of artificial oxygen, without high altitude porters and in small groups. The last year, three of us managed to climb to the top of Broad Peak at the same time. At this point, we think we are very compatible team and naturally we want to try something harder.

South - West Face of Shishapangma has been the first big Himalayan wall climbed in alpine style more than 20 years ago by British climbers Doug Scott, Alex MacIntyre and Roger - Baxter Jones. I like Doug Scott, his climbing style, his books, his way of life, his sence for elegant climbing routes. We would simply like to repeat their climb. Climb the wall and return back safely and be happy for a short time before heading back for another one, exactly like them.

The route has been climbed less than 10 times until now and we do not expect to share this entire wall with anyone else - at least we are not aware someone else would be there, too.  

We are looking for adventure and whatever comes our way......you can follow our story and keep your fingers crossed for us. The beginning is only a few days away. 

September 11, 04

Czech Republic

Martin Minarik

Dispatches

Background: On September 17, 2004 a group of 4 climbers from Czech Republic plans to arrive to Kathmandu and leave shortly for Nyalam. From Nyalam, we intend to reach Base Camp under South-West Face and repeat British Route ( Scott - MacIntyre). 

List of climbers :

Zdenek Hruby

Radek Jaros

Petr Masek

Martin Minarik

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