Carlos Pauner GI and GII Expedition 2004

After a few days of rest at base camp, we are slaves of the weather forecasts again.  We have rigged half the mountain and we have the necessary equipment to continue up there.  The acclimatization is enough, after a month of living above 5,000 m. and two nights working and sleeping in high altitude, above 6,500 m.  So, enough of strategies and warm blankets.  It is time to attack the summit, as soon as possible.  The final decision depends of this forecast we are getting now, which stress us after days of doubt.

One day looks fine, but there is wind.  The next day is calm, but there are clouds.  I hope this wasn't as accurate and meticulous as the weather forecasts they give you in Zaragoza's aeroclub (by the way, a big hug to my pilot friends, who are surely putting on their flying boots).  Well, we have what we have and at last, it looks like we have a decision.  Summit on the 13th.  It doesn't look good but not very bad either, so let's do it.

Now, a little more calm, we have a plan for these days.  One more to rest and we leave on the 11th in the early morning to go directly to camp II (by the way, it will be the first day we don't have to carry loads of materials up there, so will go quick and light).  On the next day, we will take the corridor of snow that takes us to camp III, where we will have to work a little, because the bottom half has been rigged by a commercial expedition and finally, that same night, with our swords high and if the meteorology laws permit, we will go to the summit.  Let's hope everything goes this easy, because in fact we have been up here a lot of time and it's time to get the summit.  If this goes right, we have to dream, we would have 12 more days for another mountain.  But let's go step by step.  For the moment, sun, rest and the butterflies we all have inside, knowing that in a few hours we will leave for a serious attempt for the summit.  I feel calm, strong and very motivated to step on the highest point.  I think it will be all right and that gives me confidence to fight with courage.  My teammates, I think they are OK.  I see them strong and they have, logically, the doubts of those who have never been in a zone of extreme altitude.  They are motivated and I think they will soon have their reward, their first eight thousand.

So, these days we will hydrate, eat well and let the hours pass for the battles that are about to come.  Gasherbrum I, we will soon face each other, friend.  Good luck for everybody. Carlos

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

 

Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

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