Carlos Pauner GI and GII Expedition 2004

At last, after some frustrated attempt because of the snow, we have managed to settle our first camp.  Yesterday, at midnight, we left the comfort of our Base Camp to mount Camp I and something else.  The departure time has its explanation.  The path to Camp 1 goes by a chaotic glacier full of crevasses and seracs.  The heat of the morning makes it impossible to pass, or at least, very dangerous.  So leaving at this hour, the cold of the night makes the bridges of snow on the crevasses to be frozen and it is easily passable, although we had our particular fight with crevasses.  After seven hours carrying our heavy loads by this labyrinth on the glacier, we have put our tent on Camp I, at 6050 m.   And with the job done, back to Base Camp.  Of course, on the way back we've been caught by this "oven" in which this glacier becomes in the central hours of the day.

And now after some rest, our dinner is waiting: fried eggs with ham and some surprise, which surely Ghulam, our cook, has for us.  A real luxury.  And then to continue thinking about strategies, although the only possible one is still the same: to use the good weather when it comes and to work efficiently to scratch some more meters from these mountains.

For the moment, a few days to rest and to wait for the weather to let us go up.  We hope the good weather to come soon.  How about another Teruel ham fillet, friends?

Carlos

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

 

Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

  Altitude pre-
   acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
   Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Outdoor Designs

   Pelican

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
   Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Trekking Poles
   Ushba
   and more here