Franky Kowaas, former guide and employee of Adventure Indonesia (the main
expedition company that ran the Carstensz expeditions when the mountain was
open.), believes he has a way to climb Carstensz legally run by his new
A brief background for those non-climbers out there or
climbers who do not know the background of Carstensz: Carstensz was basically
closed after some tourists got killed in the area. There are various reports
on who killed the tourists. After Carstensz was closed, a few expeditions were
run apparently without legal permits. At least some of these expeditions ran
into trouble with guns being pointed into climbers faces and money requested.
These expeditions were apparently shut down after a series
of articles by climbers discussing the problems and after being caught by the
police. Intimidation was then attempted against climbers who spoke out.
While some might recommend guides that attempt to
intimidate climbers "who talk" and guide that run trips without permits,
EverestNews.com does not.
We suggest anyone
even considering going to Carstensz to
read the article in the Washington Post, "I Went to
Indonesia, And Ran Into a Mountain of Trouble" By Francis Slakey posted
Sunday, December 7, 2003; Page B05.
So back to Franky Kowaas, former guide and employee of Adventure Indonesia
(the main expedition company that ran the Carstensz expeditions when the
mountain was open.), who believes he has a way to climb Carstensz legally.
Does he, judge for yourself?
We asked Franky several tough questions... We encourage
anyone going to check and make sure you get a legal permit!!! Below is
from a series of e-mail exchanges with Franky. In the old spirit of
EverestNews.com they are mostly RAW e-mails.... Lines in several cases and
have been put in places of names by us.
SO here you go:
peoples I'm guidance summit on Carstensz Pyramid: Joby Ogwyn, Khoo swee Chiow,
Bernard Voyer, Constantin Lacatusu, Atsushi Yamada, Zed 'Zeddy' Al-Refai,
Martin Adams, Park Young Seok, and many more (I was forgot they are name),
They are my guarantee that I was Operational Director of Carstensz Pyramid, I
made 90 % Adventure Indonesia Trip to Carstensz (Less more 15 trip and more 75
climbers), from year 2000 until 2002, All my trip to Carstensz is 100% Safe
and Success to the summit !
I think, I'm one of the right
person who is know how to organize Carstensz Pyramid with Safe and Success !
So...LEGAL SAFE PERMIT (from
Indonesian Police, Climbing Federation, National Park, ARMI, Tribal
Recommendation, And from Local Security), is no problem for me, absolutely I
can make the permit ! My problem is just NO CLIENT (Cause they don't know
me?). So.. let me see, how seriously them.
Below is Term And Conditions,
If you still have further queries, please do not hesitate to let me know.
Sincerely yours, Franky
CARSTENSZ PYRAMID EXPEDITION
2005 ( 4884 M)
STARTING : Manado
ENDING : Manado
Grade : Advance
Highest access expedition :
Carstensz Pyramid ( 4884 m )
Culture : Amungme & Dani Tribal (Christian)
Mode of expedition
: Hotel accommodation + Camping
attraction : One of the Seven Summit; follow the Normal
Route & Beautiful Limestone Scenery.
Departures : 1. February - July 2005
2. August - December 2005
- Manado is Capitol of North
Sulawesi Province - Republic of Indonesia
- Manado Elevation (sea level)
- EXCLUSIVE PACKAGE US$ 7000
Per person / trip
Min. 4 Person
- STANDARD PACKAGE US$ 6500
Per person / trip
Min. 4 Person
- SPECIAL PACKAGE - BY
(It's net price, not include FEE
· Hotel accommodation in
Manado and Timika twin sharing on bed as per itinerary. (Touris Class Hotel
for Exclusive Package, 4-5 Star Hotel )
· Breakfast, Lunch, and
Dinner following the itinerary.
· Permit fee.
· Guide & Porter.
· Equipment allowance,
daily wages, insurance for Guide & Staff Only.
· 20 kgs allowed for
· All Base Camp food,
fuel accommodation for member and staffs.
· Environment fee.
· Complete Base camp
equipment: tents, member tent, staff tent, chair table, dining tent.
· Fixed rope, Rope, Ice
axe, Crampond., other anchor equipment.
· All land
transportation in Manado and Timika.
· Air transportation
Manado - Timika - Manado.
· Helicopter transfer
Timika - BC - Timika.
· Custom clearance
assistance in Manado & Timika.
· Welcome Dinner and
Farewell dinner in Manado.
· International Air
travel to/from Manado-Indonesia,
· Alcoholic beverages
and items of a purely personal nature,
· Indonesia re-entry
visa fee ( US$ 25/pax, upon arrival Manado for specific country)
· Manado International
Airport Tax (US$ 15)
· Medical & Personal
· Personal climbing
· Respective expenses if
one returns earlier from the expedition due to sickness or other problems (
· Bonus for Guide,
Porter & Staff, In the end of expedition.
· Force majure.
Manado to BC
: 3 Days
: 5 Days
BC to Manado
: 3 Days
In Manado before/after
: 2 Days
: 1 Day
duration : 14Days
Day 1 Reach Manado
International Airport / Transfer Hotel
Days 2 Official
Procedure And rest day
Days 3 Flight to Timika
in West Papua or Irian Jaya / Transfer Hotel
Days 4 Official
procedure and rest day
Days 5 Flight Day to
Base Camp by helicopter
Days 6 - 10 Climbing Period
Days 11 Flight to Timika
and rest day
Days 12 Flight to Manado
Days 13 Spa and Farewell
Days 14 Flight To the next
destination / End of service.
Days 6 Acclimatization
day and walking surrounding BC
Days 7 Acclimatization
day and walking surrounding BC
Days 8 Rest Day and
Summit day Preparing
Days 9 Summit on
Carstensz Pyramid ( 4884 M )
Days 10 Summit on Ngapulu
or Victory Peak ( 4862 M )
NOTE: SOMETIME ITINERARY &
CLIMBING PERIOD, CAN BE CHANGE CAUSE VERY VERY SPECIAL REASON (Weather -
Technical Helicopter Problem, Local Condition)
CARSTENSZ PYRAMID INFORMATION
- Carstensz Pyramid part of
Mimika Region, in West Papua Province - Republic Of Indonesia
- Carstensz Pyramid is part
of Lorenze National Park and Sudirman ridge, and side by side with Grassberg
Open pit Freeport Inc.
- Carstensz Pyramid is lime
stone big wall (Less more 600 meter)
- Carstensz Pyramid condition
& Weather is un predictable, it can be 1-3 days raining, snowing, and Cloudy
- Base Camp to summit track
condition is sand, rock, sliding rock, water slide, and sometimes snow
- Summit ridge (4600 M) lime
- Carstensz Pyramid is
Technical rock climbing route.
SUMMIT DAY INFORMATION
(Carstensz Pyramid Normal Route)
- 12.00 - 00.50 am, wake up &
- 01.00 - 01.50 am, BC to the
- 02.00 - 05.30 am, pitch 1,
pitch 2, pitch 3, pitch 4 and Traversing
- 05.30 - 07.00 am, traversing
to the pitch 5
- 07.00 - 09.00 am, pitch 5 to
- 09.00 - 11.00 am, Summit ridge
- 11.00 - 11.30 am, Summit
- 11.30 - 15.00 pm, Summit to BC
Note: CimbingTime depending
Physical Condition, Individual Skill, climbing tactic, and how many people to
Headwear: 1 sun hat (it must
shade the eyes and nose). 1 balaclava (wool, polypropylene). 1 wool or fleece
hat. 1 pair glacier glasses with side protection (and a spare). 1 neck gaiter.
Upper - Lower body: 1
expedition down parka with hood (-20 F). 1 windproof outer jacket with hood
1 poly/fleece jacket. 1
expedition weight polypropylene shirt. 2 lightweight, long sleeve
polypropylene shirts. 2 heavy polypropylene long underwear (tops and bottoms).
2 t-shirts for lower elevations. 1 pair wind/rain pants (with side zips). 1
pair fleece pants (side zipper). 1 long cotton pant for trekking (legs zip off
to become shorts). 1 nylon shorts
Handwear: 2 pairs liner
gloves (poly thin). 1 pair medium weight fleece gloves. 1 pair goretex wind
shells for mittens. 1 pair wool or fleece mittens. 1 pair overmitts.
Footwear: 1 pair of trekking
boots (Gore-tex) and 1 quality sport shoes . 1 pair of sandals
1 pair insulated
super-gaiters. 2-3 pair of wool socks and polypropylene socks. 3 pairs
polypropylene, wool or similar socks.
Sleeping Gear: 1 down or
synthetic sleeping bag (-20C).
Pack: High quality back pack
approx. 70-80 liters. Day pack for approach hike and summit day. 1 Large
duffel bag (7000+cu.in) with lock to be carried to Base Camp.
Climbing Equipment: Sit
Harness, 1 pair Jumar, Descenduer figur of eight, 2 Carabineer Screw Gate & 5
Snap gate, 5 Webbing 1,5 meter, 2 prusik, Climbing Helmet, Head Lamp with 3
alkaline battery sets)
Misc: Sun screen and lip
protection (UV rating of 20 SPF or more). Metal thermos bottle, 1000ml.
Toiletry kit. Water bottle. Camera and film. Pocket knife (mid size). Book and
walkman to spend time in tent. Simple first aid kit. Pee bottle - 1 qt.
capacity, wide mouth. Insect repellant coating for hike in clothes. Passport.
Cash. Copies of relevant documents (maps, directions, itinerary, etc... all in
plastic bags). Journal with pens. Casual clothes for walking around, going to
dinner. Small Indonesia dictionary with travel phrases.
I need to tell you about
'trouble', this is you need to know !
- They have the legal permit
to come to Indonesia as touris who is want to go to Carstensz ! (If they not
have the permit, they can't summit to Carstensz, if you have no permit, you
stay at Timika than after that, back to Jakarta)
WHY they GOT into TROUBLE
1. The route from Ilaga (Dani
Tribal Village) cross to BC, it's more hard and very very expensive and
porters problem! I have 10 times cross this route to BC.
2. Beoga (Dani Tribal
Viollage) route is absolutely same like ilaga route ! (I never cross this way)
3. There have other route,
from Timika by helicopter to Hoya (it's a Amungme tribal village), and 5 days
walking up to base camp. (This route I was made by my self, when I organize
______________), But this route have big problem, cause No porter)
4. The only good and easy
route is croos the Freeport mine to BC, but since January 2000, Freeport
authority already closed from climbing activity. (you can cross if you have
special permit from Freeport head office in USA)
5. By Helicopter direct to BC
This route I made when I organize ______ group trip. This route is little bit
risky with acclimatization, but as soon as I know, until now this is
the only possible way to base camp.
1. They have no helicopter, this
is the MAIN problem
2. They cross Freeport mine with
no permit, that's the second big problem. This is real problem of ______ trip,
if they have the helicopter, I think there have no gun !
I have my own solution to do
Carstensz as I told you, I'm. one of the right person who is know to organize
The solution is I'm already
contacted to the private charter flight helicopter in Singapore, and I will
contract this helicopter for 1 year, due to my Carstensz departure schedule,
than I can make my Carstensz pyramid trip with safe and success!!! But also
that's make my price more expensive than the other.
so..i'm waiting for your next
Following your question:
1. What about the government
+ This is the legal & complete
permit to do Carstensz trip:
- Indonesian Police permit
(This is the main permit)
- Indonesian ARMY Permit
(This is from ARMY Intelligent to cover police permit)
- Indonesia Climbing
Federation (This is mountain climb technical aspect permit)
- National Park permit (this is for Environment & Conservation aspect)
All this permit is on behalf
Indonesian Government !!! I must take all this permit in Jakarta.
+. Back up permit, this is for
local West Papua authority:
- Permit from West Papua
tourism office (On behalf West Papua Government)
- Local Security permit (
Police Local & ARMY Local)
- Supported Letter from the
chief of Amungme Tribal (This is Most Important)
-. Freeport Permit (Just if you
want to cross or use Freeport access road and facility, but if you not use
this route, absolutely you don't need this permit)
This is Legal, safe, and
complete permit for Carstensz trip !!!
2. What is your relationship
with ____ [a guide who supposed has done illegal trips.] ?:
(Before he handled
________________ trip, he was no experience to climb Carstensz or to make
Carstensz operational in west papua).
3. Would the Helicopter fly over
the Freeport mine property ?
NO !!! We can directly flight
from Timika to Zebra wall BC, just fly over Lorenz National Park, it just less
more 15 minute flight. But you need to know, Carstensz Zebra wall Base Camp
and The Freeport border it's just 100 meter the distance.
4. When did __________ do this
I don't remember exactly, but it
was on yeas 2001, I forgotten the month, but you need to know, ________ trip
was the first trip, to use helicopter from timika to Zebra wall BC, I know
cause I was the man, who is created this route !!!
5. So were you working for
Adventure Indonesia when you did many of these other expeditions?
I was Operation Director for
Carstensz from year 2000 until 2002 ! As long as I know, for Carstensz trip,
the best period of Adventure Indonesia is period 2000 - 2002, after period
2000 - 2002 until to day, they just have not more than 5 trip to Carstensz,
but 2 trip was fail to summit !
I was told you...I never fail on
all my journey to summit Carstensz!
I was 21 times summit on
Carstensz, at this time, this is Carstensz record climb!
Recently I contacted Jakarta
Than they told me about the new permit system, it is because we have new
president, and the president make new department that is Ministry of youth &
sport office, Now Police and ARMY can be given permit, if Youth & Sport
ministry office already give recommendation, but for this new system, it's
still Ok, for me it's no problem, it just new system, I have good relationship
with people in Youth & Sport Ministry !
_______ IS NOT PART OF MY
CARSTENSZ PROJECT !!!
For Carstensz trip I'm running my own company.
Your other question:
1.) What happens if climbers pay
and then they get to the mountain and something happens and they are asked to
I'm professional! All happens
inside the itinerary & cost Include is my responsibility, I never run out of
my responsibility, for me money is not everything, I really keep care my
reputation, cause money will come if you have good & strong reputation.
I will guidance until the top
all my clients, by my self!
2.Freeport has told us the mine
is closed to expeditions. has something changed?
I have told you before, my trip
is not cross or use Freeport facility, and Freeport still closed for all
climbing activity. (Except you have special permit from them)
I'm waiting your next email!
I start to
organizer Carstensz, because I know lot of people all
over the world, they need to climb Carstensz.
Sorry George, to take your time
for this email, I just want you to know, I'm not same like _____
E-mail 7: Thank you very
much for all you have to do and you want to do for Carstensz pyramid, you know
and also I know many people all over the world, they need, and they much climb
Carstensz, Carstensz is not only Indonesia mount, but it was International
Mount, that's why it's not only Indonesia to responsible, but also people like
you, for me to climb Carstensz with help people make they are dream come true,
that's make me different feeling and happy, than I just sit on the chair and
receive paying money!
I will keep all of this with
Hard Working, High Responsibility, SAFE, and Success!!!
Is Carstensz open legally
with a new way? In November, we asked
Adventure Indonesia for a status:
Even now the security
condition is become worst and worst from time to time around the mountain
area. Last month the Free
Papua Army killed 6 civilian, and wounded 2 police and army officers. As
always after attacked the rebel will runaway to the mountain area...
So until now the mountain
still closed and no permit so far granted to anyone who plan to climb
Carstensz Pyramid or entering the area of Sudirman Mountain Range. We will
inform you if we get the chance to return to Carstensz Pyramid.
strongly urges anyone thinking about Carstensz to carefully check the status
before going there.
be careful, contact your guide, have him ask all the questions twice, ask all
the questions twice yourself, and check to see and travel at your
Summary: Lots of mountaineers want to climb Carstensz. Indonesian
government stopped the permits a few year ago. A number of teams tried it
anyway: several confronted violence and extortion. Adventure Indonesia says
Carstensz is still closed to all climbers. But Franky Kowaas, former AI guide,
says he has the permissions needed to climb the mountain legally and safely
using this new way. EverestNews.com doesn't know who is right, and strongly
urges anyone thinking about Carstensz to carefully check the status before
Is Carstensz open legally with a new way?
appears we will soon know....
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.