climbers J. Antonio Huisa and Pedro López crowned the summit of Marmolada
(3,344 meters), in the Dolomites (Italy).
The Andalucía-Antarctica 2004
expedition accomplishes their second phase of preparation and after having
climbed the highest peaks of the Atlas sierra, in Morocco, last month, they
crowned with success the summit of Marmolada, the highest summit on the
Dolomites (Italy) with 3,344 meters.
The climbers from Sevilla, J.
Antonio Huisa and Pedro López, members of the Seven Summits Sport Club (Club
Deportivo Siete Cumbres), and members of this expedition, sponsored by
Consejería de Turismo, Comercio y Deporte, successfully ascended Marmolada
after seven days and after having a lot of weather difficulties.
The expedition, besides the
adverse weather conditions, had to face technical problems on the final leg of
the climb. In the beginning Huisa and López had the intention of going by the
Vias Ferratas, which are very vertical with steel cables installed, which
would let them climb and go down in just one day the difference of 1,800
meters from the Malga Ciapela up to the summit, but they found a lot of snow
that had buried 60% of the way.
Verticality, joined to the
snow and ice, slowed down the advance and made the Andalucian climbers quit
when they were just 200 meters from the summit to go down to the Pian de
Fiaconni shelter, at 2,650 meters of altitude. "The night caught us on the
way down, and the temperature went down so fast that we thought the worst. At
last we could get to the shelter around 2:00, exhausted because of the 18
hours of march and tension".
Two days later, although
weather was still bad, and spite of the snow which would make progress
difficult and with zero visibility, Huisa and López made their last effort and
could make it to the summit to place Andalucía's flag on the highest point.
The achievement of the summit in such adverse conditions and this unexpected
technical difficulty had been an important step in the preparation of the
Andalucía- Antarctica 2004 expedition.
Translated from Spanish by
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