International Broad Peak Expedition 2004: John Dunlop

John Dunlop

EVEREST NORTH RIDGE SPRING 2001

Climbing CV – John S DUNLOP

1.      Basic Training (1971)

Stage II (Intermediate) Alpine Guides Course, Hermitage NZ, under now Chief Guide Bryan Carter.  Two week programme in the Southern Alps: snow and ice climbing; crevasse travel and rescue, bivvy training and avalanche awareness.

2.                  General Australian & NZ Climbing (1971-present)

Regular climbing in the Southern Alps over about 25 seasons between 1971 and late 1990's.

Major NZ ascents:        Mt Cook,  Zurbriggen route, Linda route and Grand Traverse

                                    Mt Tasman,  Syme Silberhorn traverse

                                    Mt Aspiring,  SE Ridge

Admitted to full Membership of the NZ Alpine Club, 1975 (in those days admittance was based on completion of a number of serious ascents). Also active at home in Australia but mainly skiing and rockclimbing. Ski standard is advanced; rockclimb leads to Aust. grade 20. 

3.                  European Alps (late 1980's)

One season at Chamonix climbing with my wife – no desperate ascents just the usual Mt Blanc, Tacul, Maudit etc.  Went also to Refuge Albert and did Aiguille de Tour.

Solo'd parts of the Haute route.

Also went to the Matterhorn and Eiger but got rained off both.

4.      USA (mid 1980's)

Visited Yosemite, rockclimbing.  No big wall ascents.

5.      Expedition Climbs

Changabang 1979 – access via Rishi Gorge Nanda Sanctuary and Nanda Base Camp.  Team was successful, but had 1 fatality on the walk out.

S American Andes 1997 – went to Catamarca province in Argentina.  Mainly work related but got over 5500 m regularly.

Khan Tengri 1999 – standard approach from the Inylchek South glacier.  Reached the col at the head of the Semenova glacier.  Turned back by heavy snow and avalanche danger.

Everest N Ridge 2001 -  only went as far as ABC due bronchial infection.

6.      Other Pertinent Information

Invited to take part in the 1988 Australian Bicentennial Everest Expedition – declined due to work commitments.  Team was not successful, but my regular NZ climbing partner, Mike Rheinberger, went back and was eventually successful on the North Ridge with kiwi guide Mark Whetu but died on descent.

Shortlisted by Aust. Antarctic Division for posting as station manager in 1985 but missed out on the medical! 

Currently work as freelance mining engineer.  Do a lot of arctic, sub-arctic and high altitude work all round the globe, so a major climbing tick list has tended to become second priority, but offsetting that I am highly seasoned and used to rough trips. 

Would prefer not to have a lead climbing role on this trip but act as a support man for the high camps.  Happy to go for it if the chance is there, but also happy to be in support. 

Experienced, well trained, acclimatize well and a good team member.  Married with a 10 year old daughter and 2 grown sons, one of whom is a self employed, professional rope access contractor, mountain guide and paragliding instructor.

And the rest of the Team

Leaders: Roland Hunter (UK) and Paul Walters (Aus)

Jeff Lamo (US)

Deb Robertson (US)

Nick Stopford (UK)

Pippa Curtis (UK)

Gary Pfisterer (US)

Simon Williams (New Zealand)

John Dunlop (Aus)

Frits Vrijlandt (NL)

Roze Vrijlandt (NL)

Bob Kort (NL)

Menno Boermans (NL)

Mick Parker (Aus)

 

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