Update 8: Dear EverestNews.com,
My first summit attempt with
Roze ended after just 50 meters from camp 3 when we could not see a trace of
the trail anymore. We had a complete white out and the snow had hidden the
trail. We went back to the tents and tried it again at 2 and 3 AM.
Unfortunately we missed the good weather window by a day. The descent of all
of us, three Italians, Mike, Roze and me was rather risky with the white out
conditions and lots of fresh snow. We all made it safely to base camp. The
Swiss in camp 2 descended the following day.
It has become very quiet in
base camp now. Basically everybody has left except for us. The weather
forecast gives a five day window from Wednesday. Three of us (Bob de Kort,
Menno Boermans and me) plan to go up tomorrow. Hopefully the snow conditions
allow us to do a summit attempt...
Thanks for all your great
weather forecasts via our Thuraya SMS!
Kind regards, Frits
The web site update is below...
August 1, Another summit
It looks like Menno and Frits
are going to try to assault the Broad Peak summit once again. Meteocosult
mails us: “From Thursday the 5th on there will be a four-day window in sight
for a new attempt for the summit.” Until that time there will be severe winds
(10 bft at the summit), but from the fifth the winds will decrease and there
won’t fall any more snow. That means that Frits and Menno are preparing depart
from base camp on august 3rd or 4th. Bob will join them to camp 2 to support
Menno and Frits by carrying supplies. He won’t go any higher because of his
unpleasant experience with altitude sickness last week. Maybe Roland, Mike and
Deb will join us for a last summit attempt. The other expedition members will
for home within three or four days, depending of the arrival of the porters.
Rooz will stay in Base camp.
The conditions on the
mountain are bizarre this year. We are of course pleased with the success of
the two Australians of our team, but is especially sad that the six climbers
who attempted to summit last week were so unlucky. Paul and Mick were simply
lucky to have had good weather on the day of their summit attempt. The others
not. Until now only two of the fourteen climbers of our team reached the
summit. Only four people reached the summit this year. Neighbor mountain
Gasherbrum II, normally the ‘safest’ 8000+ mountain is also very dangerous
this year. Last week a climber lost his life when he fell of the summit. It is
mainly because of the bad weather this year and that is a factor we cannot
control. The “good weather period” lasted only five days (24th till 29th
July): As it looks now, this was the only serious opportunity to reach the
summit. On EverestNews.com, the website about expedition climbing even stated:
“This years climbers on Broad Peak have the worst conditions ever.”
But the statement of
Meteoconsult about August 5th till 9th gives a little hope. If we don’t
succeed then, it really is due to forces beyond our control. Then the summit
isn’t allowed for us this year. Every climber can say they have given
everything to climb this mountain.
mededeling van Meteoconsult over 5 tot 9 augustus geeft weer een beetje hoop.
Als het dan niet lukt, is het echt overmacht. Dan is de top ons gewoon niet
gegund. Alle klimmers kunnen stuk voor stuk zeggen dat ze alles gegeven hebben
om de berg te beklimmen.
Information translated from
www.demmeniesport.com/ by Laurent Zuijdwijk for
International Broad Peak
Mr. Roland Hunter
Broad Peak 8047m
Coming on 15/6/2004
Bios on some of the climbers:
Frits Vrijlandt (36), climbed
everest via the Notrthridge, the Seven Summits and many other peaks around the
Rozemarijn Janssen (35), climbed 5 of the Seven Summits and many peaks in the
Alps. She is a mountain leader for the Alpine Club.
Menno Boermans (26) is climber and a photographer. He climbed Cartsensz
Piramide and several hard routes in the Alps and other areas. His pictures are
published in many magazines (like Outside Magazine).
Bob de Kort (23) is a mountain leader for the Alpine Club. He climbed several
hard routes in the Alps and other areas. His climbing partner is often Menno.
Deborah Robertson MD, is an emergency physician in Portland, Oregon, USA. She
has volunteered for the Himalayan Rescue Association and provided medical
support on several climbs. This is her first 8000m expedition.
Pippa Curtis, when not at work on sustainable development Pippa can be found
climbing British sea cliffs, in Scottish winter conditions or on bigger
mountains in Europe and beyond. In the 5 years Pippa has been climbing she has
climbed ice in Colorado, on expedition in the Himalaya and hosting on
international meets in Scotland and north Wales.
Noteable in her climbing resume was her first Alpine season in Switzerland,
where she summited 11 peaks in 11 days (including 6 of the 7 highest in the
European Alps), and in the Karakoram being one of three to make the high point
on an attempt on Drifika and then to descend from a previously uncrossed pass
at 5500m. Pippa climbs at WI V, Scottish winter IV, and onsight f6a+.
Pippa has independently trekked extensively in Europe, New Zealand, Nepal,
Patagonia and her native Australia. She has recently set up self-catering
apartments in a beautiful old farmhouse in Briancon in the French Alps
Leaders: Roland Hunter (UK) and Paul
Jeff Lamo (US)
Deb Robertson (US)
Nick Stopford (UK)
Pippa Curtis (UK)
Gary Pfisterer (US)
Simon Williams (New Zealand)
John Dunlop (Aus)
Frits Vrijlandt (NL)
Roze Vrijlandt (NL)
Bob Kort (NL)
Menno Boermans (NL)
Mick Parker (Aus)
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.