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  International Broad Peak Expedition 2004: Dispatch 3 and 4


Dispatch Three/Four: We arrived a week ago in basecamp of Broad Peak. Our neighbors are Spanish and Swiss (Kari Kobler). Other teams are Field Touring, Adventure Peaks, Austrian and Germans. After building a nice and comfortable place for our 14 climbers, the three kitchen staff and the LO we focus on the climb now. There are two different routes up to camp 1. The first goes via a couloir which is exposed to serious avalanche danger in the afternoon. The second goes around the corner and has a part which goes underneath a serac zone. We think this route is safer while the warm weather continuous. Both routes lead to a campsite which is called half camp. This site is situated below a steep snow slope which has melted out fast the last couple of days. Above this slope camp 1 is situated. All of us made it to camp 1. July 1st we went up for the second time to camp 1. There is hardly any space left to put tents. We have set up two tents on a small ridge just below the common place for camp 1.

The July 6th update from the international Broad Peak team lead by Roland Hunter and Paul Walters.

The team is progressing well on the mountain. We have established camp 2 at 6100 meters. Six of us have slept there: Paul, Deb, Jeff, Menno, Roze and Frits. The route to camp 1 has ropes fixed all the way. The route to camp 2 is almost entirely fixed. Today Roland plans to fill in some gaps with fixed rope from camp 1. Tonight Roland and Mick are in camp 2, Pippa, Simon and John are in camp 1 and the others are sitting tight in basecamp battling for world domination in RISK.

The route to camp 2 starts with a snow covered face above camp 1. Some rockpoints in the face mark the route. Subsequently you climb trending left towards a rock face and then following along the base of the rock up onto the ridge top. By staying close to the rocks, you can avoid avalanche prone snowslopes on the right. Camp twos are situated between 6100 and 6500 meters.  

Our plan is to establish camp 3 in the coming days. It will be close to 7000 meters. And most likely we will have a high camp around 7500 meters. Because we think that climbing over 1000 meters on summit day and to cross the exposed summit ridge could be too much. To get to the summit you have to go over this ridge which takes at least one hour in both ways. Two days ago an American team tried to summit from camp 3. They reached 7700 meters and faced very deep snow. The team of Adventure Peaks is on their way up too. Today they plan to go to camp 2.

Dispatches

Background:

International Broad Peak Expedition 2004

Mr. Roland Hunter

Broad Peak 8047m

Coming on 15/6/2004

 

Bios on some of the climbers: Frits Vrijlandt (36), climbed everest via the Notrthridge, the Seven Summits and many other peaks around the world.

Rozemarijn Janssen (35), climbed 5 of the Seven Summits and many  peaks in the Alps. She is a mountain leader for the Alpine Club.
 
Menno Boermans (26) is climber and a photographer. He climbed Cartsensz Piramide and several hard routes in the Alps and other areas. His pictures are published in many magazines (like Outside Magazine).

Bob de Kort (23) is a mountain leader for the Alpine Club. He climbed several hard routes in the Alps and other areas. His climbing partner is often Menno.

Deborah Robertson MD, is an emergency physician in Portland, Oregon, USA.  She has volunteered for the Himalayan Rescue Association and provided medical support on several climbs.  This is her first 8000m expedition.

Pippa Curtis, when not at work on sustainable development Pippa can be found climbing British sea cliffs, in Scottish winter conditions or on bigger mountains in Europe and beyond. In the 5 years Pippa has been climbing she has climbed ice in Colorado, on expedition in the Himalaya and hosting on international meets in Scotland and north Wales.
 
Noteable in her climbing resume was her first Alpine season in Switzerland, where she summited 11 peaks in 11 days (including 6 of the 7 highest in the European Alps), and in the Karakoram being one of three to make the high point on an attempt on Drifika and then to descend from a previously uncrossed pass at 5500m. Pippa climbs at WI V, Scottish winter IV, and onsight f6a+.
 
Pippa has independently trekked extensively in Europe, New Zealand, Nepal, Patagonia and her native Australia. She has recently set up self-catering apartments in a beautiful old farmhouse in Briancon in the French Alps

 

Leaders: Roland Hunter (UK) and Paul Walters (Aus)

Jeff Lamo (US)

Deb Robertson (US)

Nick Stopford (UK)

Pippa Curtis (UK)

Gary Pfisterer (US)

Simon Williams (New Zealand)

John Dunlop (Aus)

Frits Vrijlandt (NL)

Roze Vrijlandt (NL)

Bob Kort (NL)

Menno Boermans (NL)

Mick Parker (Aus)

 

 
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