a week ago in basecamp of Broad Peak. Our neighbors are Spanish and Swiss
(Kari Kobler). Other teams are Field Touring, Adventure Peaks, Austrian and
Germans. After building a nice and comfortable place for our 14 climbers, the
three kitchen staff and the LO we focus on the climb now. There are two
different routes up to camp 1. The first goes via a couloir which is exposed
to serious avalanche danger in the afternoon. The second goes around the
corner and has a part which goes underneath a serac zone. We think this route
is safer while the warm weather continuous. Both routes lead to a campsite
which is called half camp. This site is situated below a steep snow slope
which has melted out fast the last couple of days. Above this slope camp 1 is
situated. All of us made it to camp 1. July 1st we went up for the second time
to camp 1. There is hardly any space left to put tents. We have set up two
tents on a small ridge just below the common place for camp 1.
The July 6th update from the
international Broad Peak team lead by Roland Hunter and Paul Walters.
The team is progressing well
on the mountain. We have established camp 2 at 6100 meters. Six of us have
slept there: Paul, Deb, Jeff, Menno, Roze and Frits. The route to camp 1 has
ropes fixed all the way. The route to camp 2 is almost entirely fixed. Today
Roland plans to fill in some gaps with fixed rope from camp 1. Tonight Roland
and Mick are in camp 2, Pippa, Simon and John are in camp 1 and the others are
sitting tight in basecamp battling for world domination in RISK.
The route to camp 2 starts
with a snow covered face above camp 1. Some rockpoints in the face mark the
route. Subsequently you climb trending left towards a rock face and then
following along the base of the rock up onto the ridge top. By staying close
to the rocks, you can avoid avalanche prone snowslopes on the right. Camp twos
are situated between 6100 and 6500 meters.
Our plan is to establish camp
3 in the coming days. It will be close to 7000 meters. And most likely we will
have a high camp around 7500 meters. Because we think that climbing over 1000
meters on summit day and to cross the exposed summit ridge could be too much.
To get to the summit you have to go over this ridge which takes at least one
hour in both ways. Two days ago an American team tried to summit from camp 3.
They reached 7700 meters and faced very deep snow. The team of Adventure Peaks
is on their way up too. Today they plan to go to camp 2.
International Broad Peak
Mr. Roland Hunter
Broad Peak 8047m
Coming on 15/6/2004
Bios on some of the climbers:
Frits Vrijlandt (36), climbed
everest via the Notrthridge, the Seven Summits and many other peaks around the
Rozemarijn Janssen (35), climbed 5 of the Seven Summits and many peaks in the
Alps. She is a mountain leader for the Alpine Club.
Menno Boermans (26) is climber and a photographer. He climbed Cartsensz
Piramide and several hard routes in the Alps and other areas. His pictures are
published in many magazines (like Outside Magazine).
Bob de Kort (23) is a mountain leader for the Alpine Club. He climbed several
hard routes in the Alps and other areas. His climbing partner is often Menno.
Deborah Robertson MD, is an emergency physician in Portland, Oregon, USA. She
has volunteered for the Himalayan Rescue Association and provided medical
support on several climbs. This is her first 8000m expedition.
Pippa Curtis, when not at work on sustainable development Pippa can be found
climbing British sea cliffs, in Scottish winter conditions or on bigger
mountains in Europe and beyond. In the 5 years Pippa has been climbing she has
climbed ice in Colorado, on expedition in the Himalaya and hosting on
international meets in Scotland and north Wales.
Noteable in her climbing resume was her first Alpine season in Switzerland,
where she summited 11 peaks in 11 days (including 6 of the 7 highest in the
European Alps), and in the Karakoram being one of three to make the high point
on an attempt on Drifika and then to descend from a previously uncrossed pass
at 5500m. Pippa climbs at WI V, Scottish winter IV, and onsight f6a+.
Pippa has independently trekked extensively in Europe, New Zealand, Nepal,
Patagonia and her native Australia. She has recently set up self-catering
apartments in a beautiful old farmhouse in Briancon in the French Alps
Leaders: Roland Hunter (UK) and Paul
Jeff Lamo (US)
Deb Robertson (US)
Nick Stopford (UK)
Pippa Curtis (UK)
Gary Pfisterer (US)
Simon Williams (New Zealand)
John Dunlop (Aus)
Frits Vrijlandt (NL)
Roze Vrijlandt (NL)
Bob Kort (NL)
Menno Boermans (NL)
Mick Parker (Aus)
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.