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  Mallory and Irvine The Final Chapter:

John de Vars Hazard


Hazard, Mallory, Beetham and Irvine aboard SS California, Liverpool 29th February 1924, en route for Darjeeling © The Sandy Irvine Trust, UK.  Not to be reproduced without permission

John Hazard was a strong Alpine climber who was invited to join the 1924 Third British Expedition on the recommendation of Maj. Henry T. Morshead. Morshead was a member of the 1922 British expedition and Hazard’s commander on the Somme in World War I.

He was a sapper (military engineer) in the Indian army and therefore brought some needed general engineering skills to the expedition. Hazard had a good record of climbing in Britain and the Alps. He founded several good routes in Britain’s Lake District with the likes of pioneers F. Botterill and F. E. Roberts. 

Hazard garnered some controversy during and after the expedition. He was criticized (almost certainly unfairly) for “leaving” four porters stranded on the North Col, who were subsequently rescued by Norton, Mallory and Somervell. Following the expedition he performed some unauthorized survey work along the Zangbo River. This upset the Tibetans and contributed to a ban on Everest expeditions for nine years.

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