Everest 1924-2004

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  Mallory and Irvine The Final Chapter:

Gyaljen (Gyalzen Kazi) Sherpa


Much like fellow expedition member Karma Paul, Gyalzen Kazi held a position of little glamour on the 1924 Third British Expedition to Everest and yet his job as Sirdar was of great importance to the expedition.

Gyalzen, who was from the city of Gangtok (the capitol of the Indian state of Sikkim), was the interpreter for the 1921 British reconnaissance expedition and worked as both interpreter and sirdar on the 1922 expedition.

A Sirdar is the Chief Climbing Sherpa and has perhaps the highest position amongst the Sherpa of the expedition. As a Kazi (which is a title or designation rather than a last name) Gyalzen was a landowner and a man of some status.

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