could only Irvine's body [have] disappeared when [the] ice slab gave away and [the] oxygen
cylinder remained there?
EverestNews.com: Our source stated the body was
“leaning like this” as he leaned to his left and put his hands up to the left
side of his head and pulled his knees towards his chest. He also said that he
was on “lot of snow” (i.e., a snow slab, not on rock). He did not notice any
oxygen bottle. This would make sense if the “old” person were on a steep area,
trying to protect himself from the wind and cold, leaning into the mountain
trying to use the snow to shield himself. The climber's theory is the snow
slab gave away with all the ice and snow that has been melting off the
mountain. When we got there, we found no body, and only this oxygen bottle.
Presumably, the body and the bottle were separated by a few yards or more.
Note there was no apparatus with the bottle.
does Sandy's location tell us about M&I's last day? Can you speculate with
more authority about their routes, both up and down; how high they might have
gotten; how Sandy could have ended up where he did (and George where he did)?
A. EverestNews.com: We
believe Sandy's location could tell us much, especially when one considers the
location of George Mallory... More on this soon.
intrigued. Are you basing your belief that the 2 men separated, because Irvine
is believed to have been found by your source at 8400 meters and Mallory is at
A. EverestNews.com: Yes, The
location of George Mallory's body is a matter of record. If it is determined
that Sandy died above 8400 meters, then we believe that is a significant new
piece in the whole M&I puzzle.
they did separate, why the rope trailing from George's body?
A. EverestNews.com: We have seen the video of George Mallory
being dug up. George Mallory's body was partially buried in the ground. How do
you have "a rope trailing from George's body", when the man is partially
buried in the ground? It does show a few wraps of rope haphazardly
around the body. While it is true he had a rope around him, we could not
determine anymore from that.
of Wang's sighting? He found Mallory? Perhaps but then, what of the hole in
the cheek and position of the body? He turned it over before putting snow on
it to bury it; a la Holzel? Nagh! If he'd been face up or even side on, those
goraks would have pecked his face away and they didn't. Therefore, he always
was face down. I don't know where that leaves Wang. Maybe he was gone for more
than 20 minutes, but would he go to 8400?
EverestNews.com: The problem with all the “Wang didn’t find Mallory”
theories is that they introduce much bigger flaws than the minor one of the
hole being in Mallory’s forehead rather than his cheek. If Mallory was
essentially completely buried until shortly before Wang found him, then the
Goraks wouldn’t have got to him.
Q. Are there, or have there been
other deads up there? Maybe Russians??? What about what Eric Simonson was told
in Bejing? Another body lying in a gully this time, inside a sleeping bag.
A. EverestNews.com: History says there are 3 older dead bodies
assumed to be up there above 8000 meters: George, Sandy and
Wu Tseng-yue. Wu and George are now known locations. Sandy, as you can tell,
we have been working on. See here for more:
Irvine The Final Chapter: Everest North Slope Fatalities through 1985
See earlier comments on our opinion on
the sleeping bag.
Q. What interests me is the question – how would Mallory
signal to us that he had reached the top, assuming he knew he might not make
it back? It doesn’t appear he had a pencil or pen to write a note (on
the margins of one of the letters perhaps).
Holzel: Mallory did not leave for his summit assault with any other idea in
his mind than Irvine would take a photograph of him holding his custom-made
altimeter in his hand, showing 29,000-ft and Makalu in the background. Once
in extremis, your entire mind goes on emergency footing, trying to stay alive
and get back. Thoughts of writing farewells to loved ones do not occur to
doomed climbers until all downward motion is exhausted. Mallory was still
moving downward when he slipped.
Could he have left a spare pair of sunglasses or something else in his
possession at the summit, perhaps buried in the snow? Tenzing left some
personal/religious items at the summit in 1953. I have this vision of
Mallory, knowing he is not going to make it down, trying to find a way to tell
us he made it to the top. Was there something in his possession before the
climb that we don’t find on the body that would signal he had left it at the
top or close to it?
I’ve been enamored with the
Mallory mystery for over 50 years now. He would have kept going until he
reached the top, even it meant dying. But he would, in my view, find a way to
signal to us that he made it. It’s still possible we are missing the signal.
Thank you for you efforts to solve the mystery
A. EverestNews.com: Sure he could have left something.
Recall that the picture was not found on his body, could it be that the
picture was left on the summit? Unfortunately, the summit of Everest is a
glacial cap of snow that is constantly being blown away and replenished. Thus
items buried there slowly work there way down the Kangshung side. The 1975
Chinese tripod was photographed sticking out of the Kangshung face about 20
yards below the summit.
Q. Hello- I was wondering what are some supplies that you
could have not lived with out while climbing Mount Everest?
EverestNews.com: Many, food, water, gas, oxygen, proper climbing equipment
etc, etc... We hired good people to provide those supplies and were very happy
with what we got.
Q. Is there any connection to the presumed location of Sandy
Irvine on the old snow slab and the fall line of George Mallory?
A. EverestNews.com: If you believe Sandy is the "old dead"
as we have been discussing here, then Sandy is NOT on, what is referred to as
"George Mallory's fall line". Again, as we have stated we don't believe George
fell from up there, based on the relatively minor injuries to his body.
Q. Enjoying the Q&A's. Will
really look forward to your theory. Though you answered nearly every question
I sent, still not clear about the camera. You thought you would find it,
because you figured it must be on Sandy (and you knew where Sandy was)...or
because the climber (or someone else) thought they saw the camera or other
artifacts close by? Someone else commended you
guys for the great job. I second the motion!
A. EverestNews.com: We had no knowledge of a camera location
before we went to Everest, just locations of possible old dead bodies.
the oxygen bottle you found: do you know what the bottles from the 1930's
expeditions look like? Seems like the only other possible source, if the
bottle was not Sandy's. I take it there were no deaths high on the mountain
during those expeditions, that could account for what the climber you
A. EverestNews.com: We know in general what they are
supposed to look like. We have been supplied with pictures of the 30's bottles
which the Chinese have. Those 2 bottles appear to have no markings. However, we don't have the facts that we would like.
The facts we would like are: How many of each kind and size
were taken to the mountain, in what year were they manufactured, what year
were they taken to Everest??? We also would like to decipher the key to the
numbering system on the bottles. To us, there is a "key to these
markings" out these somewhere. All people seem to have, is some opinions and a
few facts. We want more!
For deaths see our earlier comments.
Another question occurred to me. Does Sandy's location -- or any of what you
found there -- give any insights about what Odell saw or didn't see? Assuming
he saw M&I, which IMO is not certain, various theories put them anywhere from
the 1st step to the 3rd.
A. EverestNews.com: If you assume the old dead is Sandy, it
might lead to more speculation that Odell saw them between the first and
second step with George then going over the Second step....
Q. If Odell really saw M&I at the 1st step, it is
hard to imagine Mallory [could have] summited. Climbing the 2nd step is very possible. The
3rd step, almost sure thing. But you guys don't believe Sandy
got above the 2nd step. Again, I don' expect any answers to these questions.
Hopefully more food for thought.
A. EverestNews.com: Based on the location of where the "old
dead" was seen, and the location of George Mallory's body, you are right we
don't believe Sandy got over the second step. But maybe he helped George....
Q. As Irvine was inexperienced, why would
Mallory not stayed with him?
A. EverestNews.com: Perhaps because they both could not have
gotten over the second step, therefore George went alone?
this suggest Mallory struck off on his own?
A. EverestNews.com: The location suggest to us, that
Mallory did indeed head off on his own at some point.
Q. Realizing it was late, did Mallory try for the summit
alone, and not risk Irvine to the likely danger?
A. EverestNews.com: We think they would have thought it was
early and not late. Yes, our theory is
Mallory did try for the summit alone, and that Sandy stayed behind.
the likely scenes of each one's fall, do you believe they were more or less
traveling together in the same direction?
EverestNews.com: We believe they were traveling together and then separated at
some point. The two most likely locations to have separated would be at the
First Step sparing Sandy the dangerous, unroped traverse to the Second Step.
Or perhaps they got to the Second Step together with Sandy giving George a
boost up it before turning back on his own.... ....(note:
we don't believe that Sandy Irvine fell to his death; also we don't think
George Mallory fell very far.)
it possible, from the descriptions of the "old dead" huddled against the
mountain, that Sandy was attempting a desperate bivouac as night fell on him? Great work! Greatly
appreciate your effort!
A. EverestNews.com: Yes. Quiet possibly waiting for his
friend who never returned...
have some questions regarding the Mallory and Irvine Mystery.
1-If we assume that the
bottle you found was Mallory's or Sandy's, is it far away enough from the
bottle found in 1999 to link them somehow?
A. EverestNews.com: We are not sure how distance from the 1999
bottle would link them. Especially since no one is sure how many bottles they
took, or even for sure that they only took the one size bottle. But the bottle
we found is not of the type commonly believed to have been taken by the 1924
crew. It looks much more like the bottles taken in the 1930’s.
The other problem is, and we hope we are not stepping on
anyone's toes here, but the exact location where the 1999 bottle is not
certain. We have
been told that there is confusion about if they found 1 or 2 bottles in 1999
(only one was brought down),
and the specific location on the find is in question. Climbers have
different memories. Different memories of events on Everest are common, and
should NOT be interpreted as anything more than that.
Can't the bottle be identified with the notes on Mallory's letters as one of
the bottles the pair used for their summit attempt? (as done with the 99
A. EverestNews.com: Not at this time.
can the bottle found be used to determinate if they followed the ridge or a
EverestNews.com: Yes, the ridge route if you assume the bottle was M&I's or if
you assume that the bottle was found in Sandy's place of death, neither of
which is proven today.
We should (some questions are never asked!) state that there
was other possible evidence in the form of a photograph of an object. Possibly
a container that points to the "old dead's" location.
However the object was far enough from the "old dead" that it might not be
related. But the object, which is clearly man made, was in a location where "history says" few
if any climbers were ever at. If this object were a M&I artifact then it would add to the
probability of the "old dead" being Sandy. We did not find the photograph of
the object until after our climbers were off the mountain in 2004. Therefore,
we don't know if the object is still on the mountain.
According to your source, and based on Wang's testimony, it is hard to
conclude that they [who are they?] saw different bodies, and now that Mallory and Wu were
found, it is clear that they [who are they?] came across Sandy.
A. EverestNews.com: We are sorry, please submit this one. We
are not sure what you are asking for sure... Everyone here reads the question
Q. Next, when you go up there and look for it, it is
mysteriously gone, and you claim it could have slipped downhill. But if the
body was there [earlier] and when your source came across it, why would it
have slipped downhill in recent years, [now] with lesser snow?
A. EverestNews.com: We think we covered the theory of the
body slipping downhill earlier and it is fact that Everest is melting away.
The reason the body we sought may have slipped just recently is because
Everest, too, is experiencing global warming, and there is less and less
permanent snow on the mountain each year.
Q. By the way, Mallory and Wu have not slipped downhill, they were found where they died.
A. EverestNews.com: Not sure how or what you know about Wu,
since we are pretty sure we are the only people who have seen Wu since the
year he died. And we will tell you, if others have seen Wu's body,
they would not have forgotten!!!
How do you or us or anyone else know if
Wu or Mallory slipped downhill? In Wu's case he was on very steep ground and
laying "up" on the ground. Therefore, most people would speculate his body
could very well be still moving downhill. Did it? Of course no one knows.
George, of course, was found partially buried in
the ground, but that does not mean that it is not possible he died up hill and
slipped to that location before being buried by accumulating scree. Hard
Dead bodies of some of "modern climbers" from the last 2-8
years are moving down the mountain. Now is this all natural movement? In some
cases Sherpas have been told to move dead bodies off the route. It is very
hard to determine, but we would speculate that some of the current bodies have
moved on their own based on pictures climbers have submitted to us of dead
climbers in the past and locations of those same bodies in 2004. Some of the
bodies clearly appear to be moving downhill...
Isn't it more probable
that you simply missed Sandy, and he is still up there somewhere?
After the climbers went to the location and found the bottle and not the body,
we asked that they go back for another whole day and look at the location. The
location is NOT very large, they reported they found nothing else. So far, we
don't see any "body" in the pictures.
we are sure that Mallory returned following a much more lower line than the
ridge, why has nobody searched there? Thanks for everything.
A. EverestNews.com: We are not sure that he followed a lower
line. We believe he followed the ridge.
Others have searched other locations, we searched other
locations. When you don't find what you are looking for, you sometimes go other
places. Much of Everest has now been searched...
An old fashioned Q&A. We have one more set to put up...
Then we think it would be best to publish our theory and maybe we can
do a short Q&A after that, so if you can hold those additional questions for
We went to Mount Everest in search of an answer.
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