We have received hundreds of e-mails on the
Mallory and Irvine Story. Many are
very interesting. We think you will enjoy many of them.
Area searched between the 1st step and
1933 C6 above the snow terrace by EverestNews.com climbers in Spring 2004
marked in white according to maps provided to them by their climbers. Note the map is not
intended to mark snow terrace or ridge areas searches in this area, or
searches in any other area on the mountain but just this area: EverestNews.com©Thom Pollard
Reader's Letter: Everestnews Web site, I make you my best
compliments because your work is really great, full of fantastic and fresh
news and your theory about Mallory & Irvine last day is reasonable and really
different from the old past theories. (Italy)
Thank you for the kind words.
Reader's Letter: It is very confusing that two persons claim to have found
the dead Irvine [Irvine's body] in [two] different places (Xu Jing in 1960, and your source).
Are you sure they were in different places? We interview climbers all the
time, some can't even tell you who they summited with. While some
to quote climbers statements as absolute fact when it supports whatever point of
view they are promoting. One needs to be very careful when studying evidence from
memory experienced above 8000 meters in our opinion.
that said we don't believe either climber lied. We just don't know for sure where Xu’s indicated location was. We see this as a developing story... We have NOT
concluded whether there is one location or two. We do believe we know
accurately where our source stated he found an old dead body.
History says there were no other dead bodies
up there. So that suggests that both of these climbers saw the same body or one of them
mistook something else for a body.
found no evidence pointing to 'unknown expeditions".
In our research so far, we have found that
some of the Chinese refers to the bag (or pouch) George Mallory was carrying
as a "sleeping bag". Now to us Americans, we would never call that a
bag". (Hopefully most of you know that George was found with one bag (pouch)
around him which contained several artifacts; We are not sure if that has been
discussed much publicly.) Could this help explain Xu's statement about the
dead body with a "sleeping bag"? We don't know, yet.
But this gives you an idea of the confusion
that can come up, trying to interpret what people from other cultures and
languages are really saying.
Reader's Letter continued: Xu Jing's information was right. I ask
myself: Why wasn't Xu Jing's data examined then? Where to search everyone can
read: Detectives on Everest, page 187 !!!
Why didn't you?
As we stated in our approach to the expedition, we would let the other
first. They did and the BBC is on the record as having found nothing which included searching the
Chinese (Xu Jing) location from our understanding and many
other places they went on the mountain. Of course, if Xu Jing was
misinterpreted, then that search area could of have been off.
Or one could argue that if
our interpretation of our source was off then our search area could of have
been off. However, in our case, we did not interpret really anything in the
end. We got a map...
Two of our
climbers also went to the Chinese area after they were visited by other
searchers from another team and it was
suggested as a place to look.
Our climbers looked and found nothing there. (No we were NOT working with the
This was not in our original plan, but our climbers went to several
locations after looking in our targeted locations.
visually on site and in the video of our climbers climbing up to what
you refer as "Xu Jing's location" or what we have referred to as the "Chinese
location" (same place); We saw NO evidence on the film that any climbers have
ever been climbing in those areas before. The areas going up to the
Chinese location appeared "virgin". No bodies, no artifacts, nothing except
climbing up to the "Chinese or Xu Jing's location" is very dangerous. The
opinion of our climbers and another climber, that we respect who has also
searched for Sandy, is that no climber could down climb from that location as
some have suggested. Now that is only their opinion. Watching the video of the
climbers going up shows this to be intense climbing;
while probably more of an endurance test than a highly technical climb, this
area is very steep in certain sections. Climbing up without fixed ropes, as
our climbers did, required experienced strong mountain climbers
a lot of skill and concentration.
(These are NOT areas for those who have never been on Everest. These are NOT
areas for many who have summited Everest!)
But back to
the point, in their
opinion, to down climb from that area, going in the direction of Mallory's
body, would not be possible. If this opinion is right,
this would not rule out one theory in which Mallory fell down a small way and
died and then his body came down the mountain over time. We refer to this as
the Magic Bullet Theory. It is possible and hard to disprove until hard
evidence is discovered above the Second Step or in the couloir. But the Magic
Bullet Theory, as we have discussed earlier, seems improbable.
In summary our searches of the "upper right"
of Everest's North face between the "Chinese location" and Second Step (not including the Summit ridge area
or the snow terrace):
Our climbers told us they
searched the "Chinese location" plus the routes shown to the right of the Chinese
location that were between the Chinese location and the Second Step on the map
above. These are very dangerous routes up the mountain. We had
planned to search to the right of the "Chinese location" to explore the
theory that Sandy could be up high on a ledge or against a rock. After seeing
the film, we advise anyone going up there, that it is very very dangerous.
(Ok, we have covered that!)
disclaimer (or to give hope) to those who still want to believe Sandy is at
the Chinese Location, when we went into the area, there was some snow on the
ground. However, when the BBC went early there in the season, assuming that
information is correct, there would have been very little snow
there. We don't believe the BBC or anyone else searched those "routes" we took
up the mountain this season. But we don't know where all the others went this
year or have gone in the past. We tried not to study those factors, but to
take a clean look at the whole picture.
There is a Sherpa body (in a down suit) high
up in this area near the ridge... Our climbers told us it was the Sherpa from
1996, we have not confirmed that.
We did find
evidence of climbers having been at the location our theory told us to look.
Whether this trace evidence is Mallory and Irvine's is still to be determined.
The trace evidence continues to be developed.
Also you might enjoy reading
and Irvine 1924 Theories: Sandy Irvine Theories By Tom Holzel that was
published before our expedition.
Many of the
readers/questions appear to come from readers who have not read all the
articles published before our expedition. We published many articles as
background information to the Mystery. We also found articles this weekend,
that never got published that we hope to add soon... To find/read many of
those articles look at the menu to the upper left of this page. You will
notice that the Mallory and Irvine pages have their own menu, which attempts
to index many articles which attempt to provide a wide point
One another note: When
these climbers are climbing/walking along and come across the body, there is
no mistake about it. These bodies are obvious bodies: they are 5-6 feet long,
etc etc... They are really not hard to see. Could it be possible to miss one?
and miss it in the film? Very unlikely in our opinion, if you actually are at
a location of a body. You do hear the stories of the wasted climbers walking
by dead bodies without noticing them. But our guys were in very good shape,
they were not wasted climbers coming down (or going up) from a summit
attempt. They are elite mountain climbers who know their limitations who were
on bottled oxygen the whole time up high. We stressed safety. Not coming back
was not an option... Going to these locations was very dangerous and something
they chose to do. In some cases, places they decided to go on their own...
The above map of this
search area. A disclaimer: It is hard to put routes on a general map. So don't
do over-analysis it; what you see is our attempt at transferring the
information from the map the climbers labeled, but which we don't have the
copyright to be able to publish, to the map you see.
Note map caption: Area searched between the 1st step and
1933 C6 above the snow terrace by EverestNews.com climbers in Spring 2004
marked in white according to maps provided to them by their climbers. Note the map is
intended to mark snow terrace or ridge areas searches in this area,
searches in any other area on the mountain but just this area.
Also the term "routes" is probably
incorrectly used here. These climbers were making new routes, not
following any route...
Thanks for all the e-mails and support. Feel free to submit your comments to
and thank you
for your support.
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