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 Sad results on Makalu: 1 missing climber and 1 passed away on Makalu Update | ||||||||
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| Below is an update on the information about Jay Sieger and Vladislav Terzyul obtained from the climbers on Makalu. Jay Sieger and Vladislav Terzyul set off on May 16 to ascend to the summit of Makalu. Climbers saw them ascending. They stayed late in the day and did not have time to return before dark to summit camp. They communicated that everything was alright. On May, 18 in 09:20-10:00am, a team member observed Jay Sieger going down in the patch top (summit camp), then disappeared. On May, 20, two other team members summitted and found a landmark with the Tibetan tag which was taken by Vladislav Terzyul, which indirectly testifies to their making the summit. As the two team members descended, they found the body of Jay approximately at a height of 8300 m. They could see the area in which he fell and it must have been a 30 meter fall, not far from the original path. No word on Vladislav Terzyul's whereabouts. Older update is below
Many questions are unanswered. The Sieger, and
Terzyul families are
still looking for answers... If you have information please e-mail
Basic information found to date: Jay and Mr. Terzyul set off on May 16 to ascend to the summit. Climbers saw Jay ascending. On May 18, a team member saw Jay going down in the patch top (summit camp), then disappeared. No witnesses to his fall but he must have fallen 30 meters from the looks of things. On May 20, two other climbers in his expedition found his body. Jay was found 160 meters below the summit of Makalu, at 8300 feet, not far from the original path. No further news on Mr. Terzyul. The Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition attempted the West Buttress "Paragot ridge" this Spring. They have reported that Jay Sieger has died. While investigating the death of Jay Sieger, at the request of the family, we have discovered the famous climber Vladislav Terzyul, is also missing. Several of the Kazakhstan climbers summited after Jay and Vladislav went missing... However, very few details to date.
Both climbers are said to have summited. For Vladislav Terzyul this would have been his 13th of the 14 8000 meter peaks. The Kazakhstan climbers have said they found Jay's body after they summited. Jay Sieger and Vladislav Terzyul, both of whom were on the Kazakhstan permit, were said to have summited first. However, details are very few.... Many questions are unanswered, we hope to have answers soon... Below is information on Vladislav Terzyul and Jay Sieger (which is a little dated information) from the EverestNews.com archives. American Jay Sieger Climbing Resume 1986- Aconcagua - summit 1987- Makalu- 7000m (weather) 1989- Everest- 8600m (weather) 1990- McKinley- summit 1991- Mt. Spurr (Alaska Range) new route, summit 1993– Hayden Peak (St. Elias Range) 12,000’ summit Mt. Bona (St. Elias Range) 15,000- summit 1994- Mt. Bear South (14,000’) St. Elias Range-new route, summit Peru- Quitaraju (20,000’) summit Alpamayo( 20,000’) summit Huascaran (22,500’) summit 1995- K2 N. Ridge- 8000m. (weather) 1996- Korzhnevskaya-7310m- summit Peak of 4- 6100m- summit 1997- Kangchenjunga- 7950m weather Bolivia- Condoriri (19,000’) summit Huayna Potosi (20,000’) summit Illimani (22,500’) summit Pequeno Alpamayo (18,500’) summit 1998- Cho Oyu- 8000m – deep snow Bolivia- Ancohuma (22,500’) summit Sajama (22,500’) summit 1999- K2 –Abruzzi Ridge- 6800m (partner killed by rockfall) 2000- Dhaulagiri- 7800m- deep snow K2 N. Ridge-7500m – weather 2001- Lhotse- 7950m (illness, weather) Khan Tengri 7010m summit Pik Pobeda – 5000m- weather Jay' current plans for 2002 include Makalu 2002 as a member of the Team led by Piotr Pustelnik followed by K2.
List of his climbs: Over 8000 meters peaks: Kangchenjunga, 1993, east ridge, International Expedition K2, 1994, Abruzzi route, Ukrainian Expedition/Odessa Alpine Club Broad Peak, 1995, Main (8047 m) west edge and north ridge, International Expedition Gasherbrum II, 1996, classic route, International Expedition Annapurna, 1996, north-west ridge, new route, Polish International Expedition Nanga Parbat, 1997, Diamir face, Ukrainian Expedition Everest, 1999, from north side, Ukrainian National Expedition Shishapangma, 2000, classic route. Central (8013 m), Ukrainian National Expedition Cho Oyu, 2000, classic route, solo Manaslu, 2001, south-east ridge, new route, Ukrainian National Expedition. In summer 2003 he summited Hidden Peak (8068 m) in alpine style without supplementary oxygen as usual. Climbs to the highest peaks (over 7000 m) of former Soviet Union - Lenin Peak, Komunizma Peak (twice), Korzhenevskoy Peak (twice), Pobeda Peak. Numerous climbs in mountains region of Caucasus, Pamir, Tian-Shan, Himalayas, Karakorum, the most prominent peaks – Nanda-Devi (1991) east ridge, Rackiot (1994), Ama-Dablam (1998). Skiing down from the top of Cho Oyu and from 7400 meters on Shishapangma. All the climbs were made without oxygen. New information about the recent Tian-Shan expedition. Mr. Terzyul summited Mt. Than-Tengri (6995 meters) the most beautiful and picturesque peak of the region and the fifth highest summit on the former USSR territory and confirms the title of Snow Leopard. At any case now he is one of the best mountaineers of CIS countries. Update Spring 2002: Vladislav Terzyul summits Lhotse! Update Autumn 2002: Vladislav Terzyul summits Dhaulagiri! and the report! Clearly one of the best...
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