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  Mt Makalu 2004: Joby Ogwyn Adventurer


Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, has arrived today 13 of may al Camp I (6.550 meters) of Makalu (8.463) , with the company of Ricardo Valencia, Alex Txikon, Ivan Vallejo, Joby Ogwyn and Peter Guggemos. Tomorrow, the six climbers, if the strong winds allow them, will go up to sent a camp III at 7.650 meters more or less, after climb the Makalu-La. And, on Saturday, push to the summit. It will be the 8th 8000 meter peak for Iñaki Ochoa, who plans to go to K2 this summer too.

Joby began his worldly adventures at the age of fifteen by driving to Guatemala with friends to explore ancient Mayan ruins and climb the volcanoes of Central America.  Wanting to see more remote places, he went to Kenya and climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro, the tallest mountain in Africa.  At that point, Joby set out to become one of the few people on Earth to climb the tallest mountain on each continent.  In 1993, after spending weeks in Bolivia training, Joby went to Russia to climb Mt. Elbrus, the tallest mountain in Europe. In 1994, he traveled to Argentina to climb Mt. Aconcagua, the tallest mountain in South America.  In 1995 Joby went to Alaska to climb the massive Mt. McKinley, considered to be one of the harshest environments in the world.  After a successful summit of McKinley, Joby attended a private business school in Denmark.  After extensive travel in Europe and Africa, he finished college and started his work at a commercial real estate development company.  Soon though, the mountains pulled him back, and at the end of March 1999, Joby left for a two month journey to Asia, to climb Mt. Everest, the tallest mountain on Earth.  The world’s highest mountain would not give its summit easily.  After all the members in his climbing team retreated to base camp, Joby continued on to the top through waist deep snow and without the safety of fixed ropes, free climbing the entire Southeast Ridge and the infamous “Hillary Step” eventually stepping onto the roof of the world.  In April of 2000, Joby journeyed to Indonesia and climbed the 16,023 ft. rock spire known as Carstensz Pyramid on the remote island of Papua New Guinea.  In November 2000, Joby led an international team of climbers to Mt. Vinson, the highest mountain in Antarctica.  On December 9th, the team reached the summit of Vinson and Joby became the youngest person in the world to climb all seven summits.  Since climbing the “Big Seven”,  Joby has led an international team to the summit of Lhotse, the world’s 4th highest mountain, and attempted K2 and Broad Peak in Pakistan.  A modern day, real-life Indiana Jones, Joby has not only climbed the world’s highest mountains, he has also traveled to the most remote places on the planet and endured the most extreme conditions on Earth.  And his list of goals and accomplishments keeps getting longer and loftier.

This year Joby is making several movies about the mountains and the people that live there. Locations this year will include Nepal, Iran, and Tibet and more than one film will be realized.  Famous Italian producer Allesandra Pasquino will be producing the films. Pasquino, an accomplished climber in the Alps will also be climbing Cho Oyo in Tibet.

 

The first location will be Nepal this spring where Joby will be climbing Makalu with an international team.  In June, Joby will be climbing in Iran with the famous climber from Guatemala Jaime Vinals.  Together they will be climbing Mt. Damavand 5671m, Alum Kooh 4850m,  and Mt. Sabalan 4811m.  In August, Joby and Allasandra will be climbing and filming on Cho Oyo. More info to follow...

 

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