Jean-Christophe Lafaille: Makalu 2004

Jean-Christophe went to sleep to Camp 1 last May 3rd (Monday) in order to continue with the acclimatization which is very important. He placed the tent in a hole in order to protect himself from the wind.

Tuesday May 4th , he climbed until around 7200 meters in order to deposit material to continue but over all to equip with fixed ropes a very difficult passage at 7000 meters of altitude!!! Jean-Christophe told me that according to him, he had never climbed such a difficult passage at this altitude... a wall of mixed of 60 meters , very technical.... He needed 2 hours to climb 60 meters!

I am happy because it is a real pleasure for him this virgin route... He is then turned back to the camp1 to spend the night there. As the wind was strong at 7000 meters the following day and that Jean-Christophe was tired, he is went down again, therefore on May 5th , to the advanced base camp in order to rest, to reload his bag for a new "heavy" bearing to deposit at camp 2 which he will install around 7400 meters.

Today, May 6th he left the advanced base camp to climb directly At 7400m to deposit a large bearing of material, which is almost 2000 meters of uneven at this altitude with a bag of 20/25 kg!!

At one time he tells me "I am astride on an edge of impressive snow hyper suspended in full vacuum... it is beautiful, splendid..." Tomorrow, Friday May 7th , he will dismount camp 1 definitively to move it at 7400 meters, it will be the camp2 or camp1 as one wants! According to the feeling, he will spend one or two nights there before going back to base camp.

The phase of acclimatization will then be at its end... then he will rest at the base camp, to await the good crenel weather to launch out in his integral ascent of Makalu 8481 meters, alone on a virgin slope and without oxygen!!! This will take him approximately 7 days to make the round trip: base camp - top of Makalu - return to base camp. 

I fly away on the airline company KLM, which I still thank for its invaluable assistance in this project, with our children to Nepal next May 14th . I will arrive at Kathmandu on May 15th . I will of course continue to make you live this adventure, this extraordinary ascension that Jean-Christophe wishes to realize. Translations by Fabienne for EverestNews.com Best regards, Katia Lafaille.

Dispatches

Read the dispatches from Spring 2002 here: Dispatch April 3, 2002 Bonjour

His Site in French

In 2003, Jean-Christophe Lafaille, summited Dhaulagiri, Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat.

His dispatches from Dhaulagiri this year are here.

His dispatches from Nanga Parbat this year are here.

Follow along here for dispatches from Broad Peak here.

Jean-Christophe Lafaille 2003: Broad Peak Photo Show

Jean-Christophe Lafaille: Annapurna 2002

Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

  Altitude pre-
   acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
   Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Outdoor Designs

   Pelican

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
   Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Trekking Poles
   Ushba
   and more here