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MAY 9TH -
BASECAMP
BACK TO THE
OLD BASECAMP SCHEDULE, BED TEA AT 8.00AM AND BREAKFAST AT 8.30AM.. BED TEA
IS ONE LUXURY OF BEING HERE WHICH I THINK I MAY MISS!! I NOTICED MY TENT HAS
MOVED RATHER DRAMATICALLY SINCE I'VE BEEN DOWN VALLEY FOR THE 4 DAYS, DUE TO
THE WEATHER WARMING UP. THE GLACIER THAT WE ARE CAMPED ON IS REALLY ACTIVE
AND THE CREAKING OF THE ICE AND THE SOUNDS OF STONES CRASHING IS BECOMING
CONSTANTLY MORE FREQUENT. WE ARE NOW DEVELOPING POOLS OF WATER AROUND OUR
CAMPSITE AS THE ICE MELTS. IM STILL NERVOUS ABOUT "WHEN" WE ARE GOING TO GO
FOR OUR SUMMIT ATTEMPT AND MY STOMACH IS STILL IN A KNOT ALTHOUGH
UNFORTUNATELY IT HAS NOT CURBED MY APPETITE!! I CAUGHT UP ON MY EMAILS AND
TYPED IN MY JOURNAL WHEN I RECEIVED A VISIT FROM A REALLY NICE ENGLISH GIRL
CALLED ALLIE. SHE HAD BEEN TREKKING FOR 19 DAYS AND CAME TO BASECAMP TO SEE
IF THERE WAS AN ENGLISH GIRL CLIMBING, NEEDLESS TO SAY THE BASECAMP NETWORK
LED HER TO OUR CAMP.. IT WAS VERY NICE TO CHAT TO HER AND SHE WAS MOST
IMPRESSED TO SEE I HAD UK TATER LYING IN THE COMMUNICATIONS TENT ( THANKS TO
LISA'S PACKAGE!!)
I THEN WENT TO
HAVE LUNCH IN OUR MESS TENT TO FIND THE WHOLE DISCOVERY CREW THERE HAVING A
BIG POW WOW WITH OUR TEAM ABOUT WHEN WE WERE GOING FOR THE SUMMIT, ALL I CAN
SAY IS WEATHER PROVIDING ITS GOING TO BE IMMINENT AND MY STOMACH CHURNED. I
SPOKE TO MY FATHER ABOUT MY ANXIETY ATTACKS AND HE TOLD ME THIS WAS COMMON
AMONGST ALL ATHLETES PRIOR TO A BIG EVENT...ALL I CAN SAY IS AT LEAST ALL
ATHLETES HAVE A FIXED DATE FOR THEIR EVENTS, OURS CHANGES CONSTANTLY DUE TO
THE WEATHER REPORTS. IF WE DO GO FOR THE SUMMIT IT WILL TAKE 4 OR 5 DAYS ON
THE MOUNTAIN AND THIS IS THE VAGUE PLAN. WE WILL GO FROM BASECAMP TO CAMP 2,
HAVE A REST DAY, THEN GO TO CAMP 3 AND SPEND A NIGHT, MOVE TO CAMP 4 ON THE
SOUTH COL AND THEN LEAVE FOR OUR SUMMIT ATTEMPT AT AROUND 11.00PM AT NIGHT,
AND ALL BEING WELL, HOPEFULLY BE BACK AT CAMP 4 BEFORE NIGHTFALL THE
FOLLOWING NIGHT. IT WILL BASICALLY BE AN EXHAUSTING 5 DAYS AND THEN WE HAVE
TO GET BACK DOWN. NO ONE EVER TALKS ABOUT THE DESCENTS BUT I CAN PROMISE YOU
COMING DOWN THE LHOTSE FACE IS MENTALLY EXHAUSTING YOU HAVE TO BE SO
VIGILANT WITH YOUR ROPE WORK, CONSTANTLY CLIPPING INTO AND OFF THE FIXED
LINES. AMY TOLD ME YESTERDAY THAT THERE IS A LOT OF ROCK FALLING ONTO THE
ROUTE ON THE LHOTSE FACE SO IM BRINGING MY HELMET WITH ME.. GOT TO PROTECT
MY VALUABLE BRAIN CELLS CANT AFFORD TO LOOSE ANYMORE!! THE DISCOVERY GUYS
LEFT AS OUR LUNCH ARRIVED AT AROUND 2.00PM, ANDREW IS ACCUSING MY BULKING UP
WHEY PROTEIN POWDER OF CAUSING HIM TO BE SICK!! HE GAVE ME A CHOCOLATE BAR
BUT I THINK HE MAY BE TRYING TO RETALIATE SO IM USING IT AS DECORATION!!
I THEN WENT
AND SAW LOU ANNE TO SETTLE MY DEBTS - SHE HAS GIVEN ME THE MOST AMAZING
THING FOR MY COUGH. WHENEVER I EXERT MYSELF IN THE COLD AIR I COUGH
UNCONTROLLABLY AND SHE HAS GIVEN ME A PURPLE DIAL ( IM SORRY I DON'T HAVE
THE NAME ON HAND) BUT BASICALLY ITS A POWDERED STEROID THAT U INHALE AND IT
WORKS WONDERS! I BROUGHT A PURPLE DIAL FOR ANDRONICO AND ONE FOR THE REST OF
THE GROUP IN CASE OF AN EMERGENCY ON OUR SUMMIT ATTEMPT. I THEN PRECARIOUSLY
MADE MY WAY BACK TO CAMP ACROSS THE ACTIVELY MOVING GLACIER AND READ
MAGAZINES IN MY TENT AND RELAXED PRIOR TO DINNER. WE HAVE BEEN TOLD AT
DINNER THAT WE ARE GOING FOR IT SOON SO IM MAKING PREPARATIONS BUT ITS ALL
WEATHER PERMITTING.. WHO KNOWS WITH THE WEATHER ANYWAY, THE PAST FEW DAYS
WHEN HIGH WINDS HAVE BEEN PREDICTED, THERE HAS BEEN 3 SUMMIT DAY
OPPORTUNITIES..
I HAD AN EMAIL
FROM PAVLOS WHOM I WAS VERY PLEASED TO HEAR FROM - I CALLED HIM PAVO IN MY
LAST JOURNAL ( I MISHEARD HIS NAME AS WE PASSED ON THE GLACIER) AND HE IS
THE GREEK SPONSOR SO I WANTED TO CORRECT MY SPELLING ERROR. HE IS REALLY A
GREAT MAN AND I REALLY ADMIRE HIM AND THE SUPPORT HE IS PROVIDING HIS TWO
TEAMS. HE HAS BEEN AT BASECAMP HERE ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN FOR
TWO WEEKS AND IS NOW GOING TO THE NORTH SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN FOR TWO WEEKS
WHICH AT 21,000FT THE ADVANCED BASE CAMP ON THE NORTH WILL BE THE HIGHEST HE
HAS BEEN IN HIS LIFE. TRUST ME, IT IS HARD SPENDING A LONG TIME AT THIS
ALTITUDE FOR ANYONE AND IM SURE LISA AND PLERN WILL VOUCH FOR THAT. I WAS
SORRY NOT TO HAVE MET HIM WHILST HE WAS HERE AT BASECAMP BUT I HOPE WE STAY
IN TOUCH.
IM RESTLESS
TONIGHT I HATE HAVING THE WHOLE SUMMIT THING LOOMING OVER ME...I THINK I
JUST NEED TO GET OUT THERE AND GIVE IT MY BEST SHOT, I'VE BEEN AT BASECAMP
NEARLY 6 WEEKS NOW CAN YOU BELIEVE IT? GOOD NIGHT FROM EBC!
14TH MAY -
CAMP 3 - CAMP 4: WE WERE WOKEN AT 5.OOAM AND I HAD JUST HAD THE BEST NIGHTS
SLEEP EVER ON OXYGEN DESPITE THE HUGE MASK THAT WAS STRAPPED TO MY NECK!!
RELUCTANTLY I GOT OUT OF THE LOVELY SLEEPING BAG MY MUM BROUGHT ME AS A GOOD
LUCK PRESENT AND GOT DRESSED TO BEGIN THE 5 HOUR WALK TO THE SOUTH COL. I
HAD NO BREAKFAST AND WE WERE HEADED OFF AT ABOUT 5.30, YOU HAVE TO BE
CAREFUL IN CAMP 3 AS THERE ARE CREVASSES EVERYWHERE, I EVEN TRIPPED OVER A
TENT ROPE AS THE LEDGES ARE SO SMALL AND MY CRAMPONS RIPPED SOMEONE'S TENT
BUT I WAS TOO SCARED OF FALLING INTO THE CREVASSE THAT WAS NEXT TO THE TENT
TO APOLOGIES FOR MY SMALL LACERATION OF THEIR TENT!! WE HEADED UP THE LHOTSE
FACE TOWARDS THE YELLOW BAND, MOVING NOW INTO THE "DEATH ZONE" WHICH IS
ABOVE 25,000FT ALTHOUGH I WAS ON A LOW FLOW OF OXYGEN AS WAS ANDRONICO, I
HAVE TO MENTION THAT KIKO, MISAIL AND ERNESTO WERE ALL NOT ON OXYGEN AT THIS
STAGE AND HAD VERY HEAVY PACKS WHICH MAKES IT EXHAUSTING UP AT THIS HEIGHT.
THIS HELPED ENORMOUSLY AND I FELT A LOT STRONGER THAN I HAD ARRIVING UP TO
CAMP 2 ON 11TH MAY! THE YELLOW BAND IS A ROCKY PATCH ON THE LHOTSE FACE,
YELLOWISH IN COLOUR OF COURSE, THAT REQUIRES SOME SCRAMBLING AND TIRING
PULLING YOURSELF UP ON THE ROPES, ITS NOT THAT ITS TECHNICALLY DIFFICULT BUT
THE ALTITUDE MAKES YOUR BREATHING SO LABORED THAT EVEN ON OXYGEN YOU ARE
GASPING INTO YOUR MASK. YOU THEN KEEP ON MOVING UPWARDS TOWARDS THE GENEVA
SPUR WHICH I HAD THOUGHT, OBVIOUSLY NOT HAVING DONE MY RESEARCH THAT IT WAS
JUST A ROCKY TRAVERSE TO THE SOUTH COL. WELL I WAS WRONG IT WAS A MAIZE OF
ROPES AND PRETTY CONSISTENTLY STEEP, THE ALTITUDE GAIN IS NEARLY 3,000FT
AGAIN AND ITS STRENUOUS WORK. I PULLED MY WAY GASPING UP THE ROPES FOLLOWING
SHERPAS FERRYING HUGE LOADS UP TO THE SOUTH COL - PRAYING THEY WEREN'T
CLIPPED INTO THE SAME ROPE AS ME!! AFTER A LONG ROCKY TRAVERSE WE ARRIVED AT
THE MOST BARREN DESOLATE AND I HATE TO SAY QUITE DIRTY SOUTH COL.. LACERATED
TENTS WERE EVERYWHERE A CONSTANT REMINDER OF HOW STRONG THE WINDS ARE UP
THERE AND I SOON NAVIGATED MY WAY TO OUR TENTS WHICH WERE STRUGGLING TO STAY
ANCHORED!! WE ARRIVED AROUND MIDDAY AND SETTLED INTO OUR TENTS AND GOT
PREPARED FOR OUR SUMMIT ATTEMPT WE WERE BEING WOKEN UP AT 8.00PM, ABOUT THE
TIME MOST NORMAL PEOPLE HAVE DINNER! I WAS SHARING A TENT WITH ERNESTO AS
THEY WANTED TO SPLIT ANDRONICO AND I UP AS MY TIME KEEPING ON THESE EARLY
STARTS CAN BE A BIT TARDY AND TO MONITOR US AND OUR LIQUID INTAKE AT THAT
ALTITUDE. ITS VERY IMPORTANT TO DRINK ALLOT OF WATER AND ITS ALSO A VERY
TIME CONSUMING PROCESS MELTING THE SNOW UP HIGH. I TRIED REALLY HARD TO
SLEEP BUT THE ANXIETY OF WHAT LAY AHEAD WAS HUGE AND I TOSSED AND TURNED
TRYING TO IGNORE THE HOWLING GALE OUTSIDE. WE HAD HEARD A LOT OF PEOPLE WERE
GOING TO TRY AND SUMMIT TODAY AS IT WAS THE FIRST WINDOW OF THE SEASON. AT
8.OOPM ERNESTO WOKE ME AND I HAVE TO CONFESS I WAS VERY NERVOUS ABOUT THE
WIND WHICH I WAS TOLD WAS 50MPH AND NORMAL CONDITIONS FOR UP THERE SO WE
WERE A GO!!
15TH MAY -
SUMMIT DAY THE BIGGEST EVENT IN MY LIFE!!!
I GREW MORE AND
MORE NERVOUS ABOUT THE WIND AND IM AFRAID I WAS A LITTLE LATE IN GETTING
READY, ONLY 25 MINS THOUGH AS I WAS PUTTING TONS OF HAND WARMERS AND FOOT
WARMERS ON, GIVEN HOW PRONE I AM TO FROSTBITE...FINALLY I HAD MY DOWN SUIT ON
AND HEADED OUT INTO THE WINDS TO FIND ANDRONICO AND MISAIL HAD GONE AHEAD AND
KIKO WAS A LITTLE IRRITATED WITH ME TO SAY THE LEAST. FINALLY I WAS IN MY
CRAMPONS AND HEADED UP A VERY ICY CREVASSE RIDDEN SLOPE ON THE LONG 5 HOUR
CLIMB UP TO THE BALCONY. I HAVE TO CONFESS I WAS LEFT ALONE FOR A BIT HERE AND
GIVEN THAT IV ONLY BEEN CLIMBING 3 YEARS I COULDN'T FIND A PACE THAT I WAS
HAPPY WITH AND I WAS VERY NERVOUS ABOUT ALL THE SPLITS IN THE ICE.. I LOST A
GLOVE AS IT BLEW OFF AND I THOUGHT LONG AND HARD ABOUT TURNING BACK A FEW
TIMES BUT EACH TIME THE THOUGHT OF GETTING MY FATHERS COMPANY HSBC'S FLAG TO
THE SUMMIT AND THE EVE APPEAL FLAG (WHICH IS THE CHARITY I REPRESENT) I PUSHED
ON. I SOON MANAGED TO GET CHULDEN ONE OF THE SHERPAS TO PACE ME AND I PRESSED
ON UPWARDS INTO THE WINDY NIGHT UP TOWARDS THE BALCONY. AS WE WERE THE FIRST
GROUPS TO GO THE SNOW WAS PRETTY DEEP WHICH MADE IT REALLY ARDUOUS AS YOUR
FEET SUNK IN WITH EACH STEP. ALSO, EVERY TIME I THOUGHT ABOUT TURNING BACK I
LOOKED AT THE LONG LINE OF FLASHLIGHTS BEHIND ME AND DIDN'T FEEL LIKE
EXPLAINING WHY I WAS TURNING BACK AT THIS EARLY STAGE TO EVERYONE, AFTER ALL
ITS REALLY A ONE SHOT MOUNTAIN AND THAT BORE HEAVILY ON MY MIND!! AT DAWN WE
ARRIVED AT THE BALCONY AND TOOK A BREAK AND SWITCHED OXYGEN TANKS.. ON MY
OXYGEN I WAS FASTIDIOUS TO THE POINT OF ANNOYANCE IM SURE ABOUT CHECKING THE
GAUGE AND HOW MUCH TIME I HAD LEFT, ITS VERY IMPORTANT ONCE YOU ARE ON OXYGEN
THAT YOU DON'T COME OFF IT ONCE YOU ARE UP HIGH ON THE MOUNTAIN, THIS IS WHERE
ALL THE ACCIDENTS HAPPEN. I THEN REALIZED WE WERE QUITE A BIG GROUP ON THE
BALCONY AND EVERYONE WAS HANGING AROUND WAITING AND THEN I REALIZED WHY, I
THINK EVERYONE EXPECTED OUR GROUP TO FIX THE ROPES WHICH RODRIGO HAD
CATEGORICALLY EXPLAINED TO EVERYONE AT THE "ROPE FIXING MEETINGS" THAT WE
WOULD ONLY PUT ROPES ON PLACES WHERE IT WAS ESSENTIAL, THE SOUTH SUMMIT, THE
HILARY STEP AND THE SUMMIT RIDGE ( WE ALSO PLACED ALL THE ROPES ON THE YELLOW
BAND WITH THE DISCOVERY TEAM. WE THEN JUST ROPED TOGETHER ALPINE STYLE AND SET
UP TOWARDS THE SOUTH SUMMIT WHILST EVERYONE LOOKED REALLY ANNOYED OBVIOUSLY
PRESUMING WE WOULD BE FIXING FOR EVERYONE I GUESS, BUT EACH EXPEDITION
ESPECIALLY THOSE WHO ATTEMPT THE SUMMIT ON THE FIRST WEATHER WINDOW SHOULD BE
PREPARED FOR MATTERS LIKE THIS AND RODRIGO AND PERTEMBA HAD TAKEN THE
NECESSARY PRECAUTIONS FOR THAT. THE SOUTH SUMMIT WAS TOUGH AND I CRANKED MY
OXYGEN UP A NOTCH TO GET ME UP THERE. CHULDEN AT THIS POINT HAD TURNED BACK AS
HE KEPT FALLING ASLEEP ( HOPEFULLY FROM NOT PACING ME!!) AND I WAS NOW ROPED
TO ERNESTO AS WE MADE OUR WAY UPWARDS.. I WAS NOW FULLY DETERMINED AT THIS
POINT TO REACH THE TOP I THINK DAYLIGHT HELPS WITH ME, I REALLY HATE CLIMBING
AT NIGHT.
I WAS NOW WITH
ERNESTO AND NURU WHO HAD MY OXYGEN WHICH I WAS WATCHING LIKE A HAWK AND
WHENEVER I COULDN'T SEE HIM I WOULD YELL AT HIM TO WAIT FOR ME!! I KNEW I WAS
READY FOR A CHANGE SOMETIME SOON AND I HAD NO INTENTION OF RUNNING OUT.
FINALLY WE REACHED THE SOUTH SUMMIT WHICH WAS AMAZING AND YOU REALLY FEEL LIKE
YOU ARE GETTING CLOSE. I STOPPED AND SWITCHED OXYGEN TANKS AND MADE A MENTAL
NOT OF HOW LONG I HAD WITH THE NEW TANK AND WE HEADED TOWARDS THE HILARY STEP.
ANDRONICO, MISAIL, KIKO AND PALDEN WERE A LITTLE BEHIND US. I GASPED WHEN I
SAW THE HILARY STEP, NOT THAT ITS TECHNICALLY DIFFICULT BUT ITS IMPOSING AT
THAT HEIGHT AND THERE ARE TWO BIG ROCKY CONES THAT YOU NEED TO NAVIGATE PRIOR
TO ARRIVING ON THE LONG SUMMIT RIDGE. OUR SHERPAS TASHI AND LAKPA RITA FIXED
THE ROPES ON THE HILARY STEP AND THE SUMMIT RIDGE AND SOON I WAS MAKING MY WAY
TO THE HILARY STEP CAREFULLY JUMPING OVER ROCKS AND CREVASSES TO GET TO THE
BOTTOM OF THE FIXED LINES AND DESPERATELY TRYING TO AVOID WALKING ANYWHERE
NEAR THE TERRIFYING LOOKING CORNICED RIDGE THAT DROPS DOWN INTO THE KANGCHUNG
FACE ( RODRIGOS ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT!) I WAS SOON UP THE HILARY STEP AND
ERNESTO AND I WALKED TOWARDS THE SUMMIT AND I WAS ALREADY FIGHTING BACK THE
TEARS AT THIS STAGE. WE ARRIVED ON THE SUMMIT AT AROUND 12.15PM ON 15TH MAY (
UNBEKNOWNST TO ME OUR TURN AROUND TIME WAS 12.00PM BUT AS THE WEATHER LOOKED
OK RODRIGO LET US STAY UNTIL 2.30PM) WE ARRIVED ON THE SUMMIT AND THE
DISCOVERY CAMERA WAS ON MY FACE AS THE TEARS STARTED, I WAS MEANT TO BE
HOLDING THE HSBC FLAG WITH A BIG SMILE BUT I WAS A TEARY WRECK AS I HELD IT TO
THE SKY. I HUGGED ALL THE SHERPAS TASHI AND NORU AS IT WAS A FIRST ASCENT FOR
BOTH AND ALSO LAKPA RITA.. I SAID MY PRAYERS TO PETER VAN JENSENS LATE WIFE
LORNE WHO IM WORKING ON THE EVE APPEAL FOR STILL CRYING. THE OTHERS THEN
ARRIVED ON THE SUMMIT AND I PHOTOED THE ARRIVAL OF ANDRONICO, KIKO AND MISAIL
AND THEN I HUGGED ANDRONICO, IT WAS SUCH A BIG AND EMOTIONAL MOMENT FOR BOTH
OF US WHEN YOU ACHIEVE A DREAM LIKE THIS THAT YOU THINK IS UNACHIEVABLE. THERE
WAS KENTON COOL ON THE SUMMIT ALSO AND HIS CLIENT AND I THINK AN IMG GUY. AT
AROUND 2.00PM THE SHERPAS GOT ANTSY ABOUT GETTING DOWN AND THEN I HEARD
RODRIGO OVER THE RADIO TELLING US TO GET OFF THE SUMMIT NOW AS THE WINDS WOULD
BE PICKING UP SO I GRABBED LAKPA RITA AND ASKED HIM TO TAKE ME DOWN AS THE
OTHERS WERE STILL FINISHING PHOTOS. I HAVE TO SAY I THINK I DID THE QUICKEST
DESCENT IN HISTORY ( IM OBVIOUSLY EXAGGERATING) AND I DON'T KNOW HOW I RUSTLED
UP THE ENERGY TO GET DOWN BUT LAKPA TOOK ME AT A PRETTY GOOD PACE WITH NURU
RIGHT BEHIND ME. I GOT SOME MORE OXYGEN AT THE SOUTH SUMMIT, I LOST MY WATER
BOTTLE DOWN THE HILLARY STEP AND WE WERE SOON HEADING DOWN TOWARDS THE BALCONY
ME ROPED IN FRONT OF LAKPA. I LAST SAW THE GROUP ON THE HILARY STEP WHILST I
WAS ON THE SOUTH SUMMIT AND THOUGHT THEY WERE PRETTY CLOSE BEHIND ME, LITTLE
DID I KNOW WHAT DRAMA WOULD UNFOLD!! I CHATTED WITH KENTON ON THE ROCKY PATCH
OF THE SOUTH SUMMIT AND HIS CLIENT LOOKED IN PRETTY BAD SHAPE I THINK HE WAS
THROWING UP AT THIS POINT ( THIS MOUNTAIN IS REALLY TOUGH) AND THEN WE STOPPED
AT THE BALCONY FOR A BRIEF REST AND THEN TASHI TOOK MY ROPE AND WE HEADED DOWN
TO THE COL. I ARRIVED BACK AT CAMP AT AROUND 5.OOPM HUGGED TASHI TO DEATH AND
LOOKING EXTREMELY DISHEVELLED AND SHEEPISHLY OFF TO STAKE OUT A PLACE FOR THE
BATHROOM I BUMPED INTO ANDREW LOCK WHO WAS GETTING READY FOR HIS SUMMIT
ATTEMPT AND HE WANTED TO COME AND DO A POST SUMMIT INTERVIEW.. HE WAS COMING
TO INTERVIEW ME IN MY TENT IN 2 MINS!! I HATE BEING CAUGHT SMELLING LIKE A
POLE CAT AND HAVING JUST ARRIVED FROM A 17 HOUR EXERTION AND DEFINITELY WASN'T
FEELING OR LOOKING MY BEST. ANDREW IS PRETTY CUTE SO I FLEW INTO MY TENT TO
TRY AND LOOK A LITTLE BETTER BUT HE ARRIVED BEFORE I COULD DO A THING! DID A
TEARY INTERVIEW WITH HIM AND WISHED HIM LUCK ON HIS SUMMIT AND THEN WENT AND
CHATTED TO THE GREEK TEAM WHO WERE DEPARTING FOR THE SUMMIT IN A FEW HOURS. I
WISHED THEM LUCK AT BEING THE FIRST GREEKS ON THE SUMMIT AND THEY SAID THEY
HAD SEEN MY TEAM THROUGH THEIR TELESCOPE ON THE SOUTH SUMMIT.. WHICH I ASSURED
THEM COULD NOT BE POSSIBLE AS THEY WERE RIGHT BEHIND ME.
THE TEAM THAT I
THOUGHT WAS MY TEAM WAS KENTON COOL AND HIS POOR CLIENT ARRIVING BACK DOWN,
KENTON THEN INFORMED ME THAT MY TEAM WERE ON THE WAY DOWN VERY SLOWLY BUT
SAFELY, SO RE ASSURED WITH THIS NEWS I WENT INTO MY TENT TO REST AND AWAIT
THEIR ARRIVAL. AT AROUND 9.00PM I WOKE UP SUFFOCATING AND SCREAMED FRANTICALLY
FOR CHULDEN AS I REALIZED MY OXYGEN WAS GONE. HE NOTIFIED ME THAT WE HAD NO
MORE LEFT AT WHICH POINT I WAS ALMOST HYSTERICAL.
HE THEN WENT AND
GOT A BOTTLE FROM ANOTHER TEAM AND GAVE IT TO ME WHICH LIKE AN ADDICT I STUCK
ONTO MY MOUTH WITH RELIEF. HE THEN POINTED OUT SOME LIGHTS AND NOTIFIED ME
THAT IT WAS OUR TEAM COMING DOWN AND THEY WOULD BE AT THE SOUTH COL AROUND
10.30PM SO I RELAXED AND FELL ASLEEP. I HAD NO RADIO AS ERNESTO HAD TAKEN MINE
SO I HAD NO CLUE WHERE THE TEAM WAS WHEN I WOKE UP AT 1.00AM AND REALIZED THEY
WERE STILL NOT BACK AT WHICH POINT I STARTED TO PANIC.. EVENTUALLY THEY
ARRIVED AT 1.45AM AND I RUSHED OUT TO HELP ANDRONICO INTO HIS TENT AND GET
HIM REHYDRATION SALTS.. SO WHAT HAPPENED FROM WHEN I SAW THEM ON THE HILLARY
STEP WENT SOMETHING LIKE THIS...
FROM DEPARTING
THE SUMMIT ANDRONICO RAN OUT OF OXYGEN, THIS WAS MY BIG FEAR TO RUN OUT AT
29,000 FT.. THERE WAS MORE OXYGEN AWAITING HIM ON THE SOUTH SUMMIT BUT HE HAD
40 MINS OR SO WITHOUT OXYGEN WHICH I THINK CAUSED HIM TO BE EXTREMELY TIRED.
AT THE SOUTH SUMMIT HE HAD MORE OXYGEN GIVEN TO HIM AND THE GROUP CONTINUED
DOWN THE MOUNTAIN VERY SLOWLY. AT THIS POINT KIKO, ERNESTO AND MISAIL WERE ALL
OUT OF OXYGEN COMPLETELY AND WE HAD NO MORE OXYGEN STASHED AWAY UNTIL THE
BALCONY BUT OBVIOUSLY WE HAD NO IDEA HOW LONG IT WOULD TAKE THEM TO GET THERE
AND HOW LONG THEY WOULD ALL BE WITHOUT O'S PLUS THEY ALSO HAD VERY LITTLE
WATER LEFT.. THERE WAS THEN A HUGE CONFUSION ABOUT WHERE THEY WERE ON THE
MOUNTAIN AND AT WHAT TIME, BY NOW THEY WERE ALSO STARTING TO MEET ALL THE
OTHER TEAMS GOING UP FOR THE SUMMIT WHICH CAUSED FURTHER DELAYS DUE TO THE
ASCCENDER OR DESCENDER HAVING TO CLIP IN AND OUT OF THE FIXED ROPE. OUR POOR
SHERPAS WHO HAD ALREADY RETURNED FROM THE SUMMIT WHERE THEN ASKED TO GO BACK
UP THE MOUNTAIN TO MEET THE GROUP TAKING THEM WATER AND OXYGEN. THERE WAS A
BIG MISUNDERSTANDING PROBABLY DUE TO THE FACT THAT HALF THE GROUP WERE
HYPOTHERMIC, FROZEN ( THE WINDS WERE NOW BACK UP TO 50MPH) AND HYPOXIC ABOUT
WHERE EXACTLY ON THE MOUNTAIN THEY WERE. THE SHERPAS COULDN'T FIND THEM AND
RADIO CALLS BETWEEN RODRIGO AND THE GROUP WERE FREQUENT AND CONFUSED. CHULDEN
WAS THEN SENT BACK UP AS THE GROUP STILL HAD NOT RETURNED AT 12.00PM AND HE
WENT WITH 3 BOTTLES OF WATER TO GO AND FIND THEM. POOR CHULDEN SLIPPED ON THE
ICE AND STARTED SLIDING DOWN THE TREACHEROUS ICY LHOTSE FACE TO CAMP 2. ALL
THE WATER FELL DOWN THE SLOPES OF THE LHOTSE FACE AND SOMEHOW BY SOME
MIRACLE HE MANAGED TO SAVE HIMSELF..
SHAKING TERRIBLY
HE BRAVELY CONTINUED UP TO FIND THE GROUP WHICH HE DULY DID. POOR KIKO ONLY
GOT TWO FINGERS FULL OF WATER WHICH HE COULDN'T UNDERSTAND WHY HE WAS GETTING
SO LITTLE ( POOR CHULDEN HADN'T EXPLAINED WHAT HAD HAPPENED TO HIM AS HE
SKIDDED ON THE ICE NEARLY TO HIS DEATH) THE GROUP WAS EXHAUSTED WHEN THEY
ARRIVED, ABSOLUTELY FROZEN AND OXYGEN DEPLETED BUT THE MAIN THING WAS WE WERE
ALL BACK AT THE SOUTH COL SAFELY IF NOT A LITTLE DRAMATICALLY. RODRIGO AND
PERTEMBA MANNED THE RADIOS ALL NIGHT AND I THINK A FEW PEOPLE COULD HEAR WHAT
WAS GOING ON - THE DISCOVERY TEAM WERE GREAT, BEN HAS BEEN FULLY IN THE LOOP
WITH OUR TEAM FROM THE GET GO. PERTEMBA WHOSE MAIN WORDS TO US ARE "POLE POLE"
WHICH MEANS SLOWLY SLOWLY IN NEPALI WAS SCREAMING DOWN THE RADIO TO THE GROUP
MOVE FASTER, FASTER FORGET ANY "POLE POLE"
NOW!!!!ONCE ID
SEEN ANDRONICO WAS OK AND STILL WAS MANAGING TO JOKE WITH ME I WENT BACK TO MY
TENT AND LISTENED TO ERNESTO AND RODRIGO ON THE RADIO IT WAS ABOUT 3.00AM BY
NOW AND I WAS EXHAUSTED!!! THE MAIN THING WAS WE WERE BACK AT THE SOUTH COL
AND THE WHOLE TEAM HAD MADE THE SUMMIT TOGETHER AND WE WERE THE FIRST TEAM OF
THE SEASON TO BE THERE.. TOO TIRED TO FEEL EUPHORIC AT THIS STAGE!! WE HAD AN
8.00AM START TO MOVE OFF THE SOUTH COL AND BACK DOWN TO CAMP 2 WHERE I COULD
START TO FEEL SAFER BUT STILL THE ICEFALL TO NAVIGATE. THEN I CAN
CELEBRATE!!!!!! I AM NOW BACK AT BASECAMP BUT SO TIRED FROM A WEEKS EXHAUSTING
CLIMBING SO ILL FILL IN THE 16TH AND 17TH DRAMAS TOMORROW. THE 11TH, 12TH AND
13TH WILL BE UPDATED IN THE NEXT DAY OR TWO BUT I WAS SO TIRED THIS MORNING I
LEFT MY JOURNAL AT CAMP 2!! A VERY HAPPY GIRL WHO HAS ACHIEVED A BIG DREAM IS
SAYING GOODNIGHT FROM BASECAMP
MAY 16TH -
POST SUMMIT EUPHORIA, CAMP 4 - CAMP 2
I WOKE UP WITH
EVERY BONE IN MY BODY ACHING, MY NECK KILLED FROM THE PRESSURE OF THE STRAP
OF THE OXYGEN MASK AND THE BLISTERS ON MY HEELS WERE UNBELIEVABLY PAINFUL
BUT I WAS SO HAPPY ABOUT ACTUALLY MAKING THE SUMMIT YESTERDAY, IT WAS A
DREAM COME TRUE FOR ME AND I WAS THINKING OF MY GRANDMOTHER AND HOW PROUD
SHE WOULD BE RIGHT NOW. SHE IS 96 YEARS OLD AND BEING ONE OF THE FIRST
WESTERN WOMEN IN NEPAL AT ALTITUDE MY CLIMB WAS SOMETHING THAT WAS VERY
CLOSE TO HER HEART.. I SPOKE TO MY SISTER IN HONG KONG AND CRIED IMMEDIATELY
I HEARD HER VOICE, I DON'T KNOW WHAT ITS BEEN ABOUT THIS CLIMB BUT I'VE BEEN
A COMPLETE EMOTIONAL WRECK. WHAT I DIDN'T KNOW THAT SHE RELAYED TO ME WAS
THE HELL THAT I HAD PUT MY FAMILY THROUGH, THEY HAD BEEN FOLLOWING THE
WEBSITE WWW.EVERESTNEWS.COM. I WAS SATELLITE PHONE LESS AND RADIOLESSS
AT CAMP 4 SO COULDN'T TELL THEM I WAS SAFE SO I FEEL REALLY BAD FOR THE
STRESS AND ANXIETY I PUT MY FAMILY THROUGH. IT WAS GREAT TO SPEAK TO MY
SISTER AND MY DAD FOUND OUT I HAD MADE THE SUMMIT IN FRONT OF 50 HARDCORE
BANKERS AND PUNCHED THE AIR AND RAN OUT OF THE MEETING TO TELL MY MOTHER WHO
WAS SO HAPPY AND RELIEVED.. BIG EXCITEMENT IN OUR FAMILY. I'VE BEEN TEASING
MY DAD AS OUR DOG WHICH IS A BULL TERRIER IS THE APPLE OF HIS EYE, AND THE
THINGS WE HAVE TO DO TO GET ABOVE THE DOG IN TERMS OF GAINING HIS AFFECTION
- I MEAN I HAD TO SUMMIT THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN ON EARTH TO GET THE EDGE ON
OUR DOG!!!
EXHAUSTED WE
ALL GOT PACKED UP, AGAIN I HAVE TO MENTION OUR SHERPAS AND HOW AMAZING THEY
ARE, THE LOADS THEY CARRIED DOWN TO CAMP 2 WITHOUT OXYGEN WERE HUGE AND THEY
HAD ALSO BEEN TO THE SUMMIT NOT WITH US THE DAY BEFORE, NOT TO MENTION GOING
BACK UP WITH WATER AND OXYGEN TO HELP ANDRONICO, MISAIL, KIKO AND ERNESTO. I
PUT MY DEPLETED OXYGEN SUPPLY ON THE LOWEST FLOW AS I WAS ABOUT TO RUN OUT,
I FIGURED I HAD ENOUGH TO GET ME TO THE YELLOW BAND AND THEN I WOULD HAVE TO
GO WITHOUT. I SET OFF WITH ANDRONICO AND WE STUMBLED WEAKLY OUT OF THE SOUTH
COL AND FINALLY ON OUR TRIP DOWN TO CAMP 2. WE WERE LIKE WAR VETERANS
BATTERED, WEAK AND LOOKING LIKE SOME KIND OF VAGABONDS AS WE HEADED TOWARDS
THE GENEVA SPUR. AT THE TOP OF THE SPUR WE PUT ON OUR CRAMPONS TO RAPEL DOWN
AND I LOOKED OVER THE EDGE AND SAW THE BIGGEST LINE OF CLIMBERS HEADING UP
FROM CAMP 3 FOR THEIR SUMMIT ATTEMPT. DAVID BREASHEARS, ED VIESTURS, VEIKER,
JIMMY AND AMY WERE ALL ON THE WAY UP.
DAVID GOT INTO
A LITTLE FIGHT WITH A SHERPA WHO HAD NO MANNERS AND WAS TRYING TO PUSH PAST
HIM ON THE ROPES. ITS REALLY DANGEROUS WHEN PEOPLE DO THIS AS ROCKS CAN LAND
ON WAITING CLIMBERS HEADS AND NO ONE REALLY HAS A HELMET ( I NEVER WORE MINE
IN THE END, VANITY PREVAILED!!) I SAW THE SHERPA PUSHING DAVID, WHO WAS
COMPLETELY IN THE RIGHT I HASTEN TO ADD, BUT IT WAS STRANGE TO THINK THAT U
CAN HAVE A FIGHT AT 28,000FT!! I HAD TO WAIT AT THE TOP OF THE SPUR FOR A
WHILE, THIS IS WHAT IS SLOW IN THE WHOLE CLIMBING EVEREST PROCESS IS THE
WAITING ON THE ROPES. I SAID GOOD LUCK TO DAVID, ED, AMY, JIMMY AND VEIKER
AND NOW WORRIED ABOUT RUNNING OUT OF MY OXYGEN I CLIPPED ON AND WHIZZED DOWN
THE SPUR AS FAST AS I COULD. I CAUGHT UP WITH ANDRONICO AND WE HEADED ON
DOWN TO CAMP 3 WISHING ALL THE CLIMBERS COMING UP GOOD LUCK..( I WAS SO
HAPPY I WAS HEADED DOWN RATHER THAN UP!) KIKO WAS FEELING AWFUL AS THESE
GUYS WERE NOT ON OXYGEN AND WE WAITED FOR HIM ABOVE CAMP 3..I CANNOT TELL
YOU HOW TIRED EVERYONE WAS.
THE LHOTSE
FACE WAS FAIRLY UNEVENTFUL, EVERYTHING WAS STARTING TO MELT AND TWICE ICE
SCREWS JUST FLEW OUT OF THE SLOPES WHEN WE WERE HOLDING ONTO THEM. FINALLY
WE GOT TO THE BASE OF THE CWYM AND ANDRONICO AND I HEADED BACK TO CAMP 2
CHATTING ABOUT OUR SUMMIT DAY IN DETAIL. JUST OUTSIDE OF CAMP 2 RODRIGO,
PIPE AND PATO JUMPED OUT AT US SHOWERING US WITH POPCORN AND YELLING
CONGRATULATIONS, IT WAS SUCH A NICE FEELING TO BE BACK WITH THEM AND SEE
PALDE OUR COOK. FRANKIE FROM DISCOVERY FILMED OUR ARRIVAL BACK AND
INTERVIEWED US ALL.. WE THEN HAD A HUGE DINNER, AMAZING THAT PALDE CAN
PREPARE FOOD LIKE THAT FROM THE BATTERED OLD GREEN TENT! I THEN HEADED TO
BED ABSOLUTELY EXHAUSTED AND WE WERE GETTING UP AT 5.00AM TO HEAD DOWN TO
BASECAMP.. U MUST BEAR IN MIND THAT WE HAD HARDLY SLEPT IN 3 NIGHTS BY NOW.
THE WORST THING WAS I WAS AWOKEN ABOUT AN HOUR AFTER I WENT TO SLEEP, I FELT
LIKE I HAD BEEN DRUGGED I WAS SO EXHAUSTED BUT I KNEW I WAS GOING TO BE
ILL.. SOMEHOW I GOT OUT OF THE TENT IN TIME, I THINK ALL THE FOOD I ATE
HAVING HAD NOTHING FOR 2 DAYS WAS TOO MUCH FOR ME.. I WOKE UP THE NEXT
MORNING AND FELT SO ILL IT WAS RIDICULOUS AND I HAD NO IDEA HOW I WAS GOING
TO GET THROUGH THE 6 HOUR WALK TO BASECAMP BUT I KNEW I HAD TO GET THROUGH
THE ICEFALL BEFORE I COULD CELEBRATE MY CLIMB PROPERLY. I WAS PATHETIC AND
CRIED BECAUSE I COULDN'T PUT MY THERMOREST INTO ITS HOLDER, I THINK ALL
EVIDENCE POINTED TO SHEER EXHAUSTION AND AN URGENT NEED TO DESCEND!!
MAY 17TH -
CAMP 2 - BASECAMP
I HEADED DOWN
WITH RODRIGO FEELING SICK AND WITH A BLISTER THAT CAUSED SUCH PAIN WITH
EVERY STEP. RODRIGO HAD VOLUNTEERED VERY BRAVELY TO TAKE THE GRINGA DOWN!!
WE HEADED OFF, PRETTY FAST I HAVE TO SAY CONSIDERING HOW ILL I FELT AND ALL
WAS FAIRLY UNEVENTFUL UNTIL WE GOT INTO THE ICEFALL. WE CHATTED TO CHRIS
WARNER WHO HAD MADE THE SUMMIT OF LHOTSE WITHOUT OXYGEN AND HE WAS FEELING
AWFUL. HE HAD GOT THE BASECAMP BUG A FEW DAYS BEFORE HIS SUMMIT ATTEMPT AND
HE WAS FEELING PRETTY ROUGH. WE HAD A BRIEF CHAT THEN RODRIGO AND I HEADED
DOWN TOGETHER. AT THE TOP OF THE ICEFALL BEFORE U START ON THE ROPES AND
LADDERS AMONGST THE MAZE OF DEATHLY LOOKING SERACS AND OVERHANGING ICE THERE
WAS A HUGE CREVASSE WE HAD TO CROSS ( IT REALLY SHOULD HAVE A LADDER THERE)
I TOOK ONE LOOK AND SAID TO RODRIGO BEFORE HE LEPT FOR IT " DON'T YOU THINK
YOU SHOULD CLIP IN?" " YEAH GRINGA MAYBE FOR ONCE YOU ARE RIGHT HE SAID
JOKING WITH ME" LUCKILY HE CLIPPED IN BECAUSE AS HE LEPT, THE ICE HE LANDED
ON COLLAPSED AND HE WAS LEFT SWINGING OVER THE CREVASSE. I SCREAMED, ITS SO
HORRIBLE WHEN THIS HAPPENS AND MY HEART RATE SHOT TO ABOUT 200 BEATS PER
MINUTE. HE FINALLY GOT SECURED ( IF YOU CAN CALL ANYTHING IN THE ICEFAL
SECURE) ON THE OTHER SIDE, AND MY HEART BEAT EVEN FASTER AS I KNEW I WOULD
NOW HAVE TO JUMP TOO. I MADE IT, BUT WE BOTH WERE IN SHOCK AND PANTING WITH
OUR HEADS ON THE ICE. I WOULDN'T WANT ME TO BE THE PERSON TO RESCUE ME SO IM
SURE RODRIGO WAS RELIEVED THAT HE MANAGED NOT TO FALL INTO THE DEPTHS OF THE
CREVASSE!! WE CONTINUED ON REALLY FAST - I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE MY ENERGY WAS
COMING FROM, JUST AN URGENT NEED TO GET AWAY FROM SNOW AND ICE I THINK. THE
WHOLE ICEFALL HAD CHANGED YET AGAIN AND THIS TIME EVEN WORSE EVERYTHING WAS
MELTING. WE MET THE ICEFALL DOCTORS AND THEY ARE GREAT BUT A LITTLE RELAXED
ABOUT THE LOOSE ICE SCREWS ON THE LADDERS AND CASUALLY ASKED US TO TAP THEM
IN IF WE SAW ANY LOOSE ONES! THANK GOD THIS WAS OUR LAST TIME IN THE ICEFALL
IF THAT IS HOW RELAXED THEY ARE I THOUGHT TO MYSELF..
THE NEXT INCIDENT HAPPENED TO POOR RODRIGO WAS WHEN HE WAS ON A LADDER WHICH
UNBEKNOWNST TO US HAD ONE OF THE LOOSE ICE SCREWS THE ICEFALL DOCTORS WERE
TALKING ABOUT ON IT. LUCKILY RODRIGO WAS CLIPPED IN, BECAUSE THE LADDER
SHOOK HEAVILY AS HE CROSSED IT AND JUST BEFORE HE REACHED THE OTHER SIDE OF
THE CREVASSE, THE WHOLE LADDER TIPPED OVER!! HE LEPT FOR DEAR LIFE AND
LUCKILY REACHED THE OTHER SIDE WITHOUT FALLING INTO THE CREVASSE. NOW IT WAS
MY TURN.. MY HEART RATE SHOT UP AGAIN AND I CRAWLED ACROSS MOST OF THE
LADDERS ON THE DESCENT, ALL DIGNITY ABOUT LOOKING GOOD LONG GONE! WE CARRIED
ON DOWN FAST AND I WAS CONSTANTLY ON EDGE ABOUT ANY FURTHER MOVEMENTS IN THE
ICEFALL. FINALLY AFTER ABOUT 3 HOURS OF HELL, MY FOOT WAS SO PAINFUL AND MY
I WAS TRYING NOT TO THROW UP, WE SPIED PERTEMBA!! TEARS WELLED UP IN MY EYES
AS I REALIZED I COULD FINALLY RELAX, THE ORDEAL WAS OVER AND THIS ANXIETY
THAT HAD TAKEN OVER MY BODY COULD BE RELEASED. HE WAS WAITING WITH A COCA
COLA FOR US AND ITS NEVER TASTED SO GOOD!! WE ALL HUGGED AND SAT AND HAD OUR
COKES AND THEN RODRIGO, CHRIS WARNER AND I HEADED BACK THE FINAL STEPS TO
BASE CAMP. I WAS FOLLOWING RODRIGO AND THE WHOLE OF BASECAMP IN OUR WEEKS
ABSENCE HAS BECOME LITERALLY A RIVER!! AMAZING HOW QUICKLY THINGS CHANGE
ROUND HERE. WE WERE CROSSING A SMALL RIVER OF MELTING ICE AND RODRIGO JUMPED
ON A SEEMINGLY LARGE SECURE ROCK AND THE NEXT THING IT COLLAPSED AND HE WAS
SITTING WAIST DEEP IN ICY COLD RUNNING WATER.. WHAT A WAY TO END OUR TRIP
DOWN THE ICEFALL. I THOUGHT BASECAMP WAS SAFE BUT EVERY SECOND ROCKS AND ICE
WILL CREAK AND MOVE AND MY TENT IS SO PRECARIOUSLY PLACED ONTOP OF A SMALL
MELTING SLAB OF ICE THAT IF I WASN'T HERE FOR JUST ONE MORE NIGHT I WOULD
HAVE TO REPITCH IT!!!
WE HAD A
DELICIOUS LUNCH, MY ILLNESS SEEMS TO HAVE SUBSIDED NOW THAT I WAS BACK AT
BASECAMP!!I WAS SO HAPPY TO SEE OUR COOKS BIM, CHULDUN AND CHAGMA..I LOVE
THEM ALL, THEY ARE SUCH AMAZING PEOPLE. WE SAT AND GOSSIPED ALL AFTERNOON,
RODRIGO, PIPE, PATO, KIKO AND I AND THEN I CAME TO WORK ON THE COMPUTER..
THE BOYS GIVE ME GRIEF ABOUT NOT BEING ABLE TO START THE GENERATOR AND
WOULDN'T DO IF FOR ME UNTIL THEY HAD CONSUMED AT LEAST 5 BEERS!! I THEN
WORKED ON MY JOURNALS AND 500 EMAILS!! UNTIL DINNER AND ALSO SPOKE TO MY MUM
WHOM I MISS DESPERATELY. I WAS REALLY WORRIED ABOUT ANDRONICO STILL AT CAMP
1 AND I KNOW ILL BE ABLE TO RELAX FULLY WHEN HE IS DOWN SAFELY AT BASECAMP.
Annabelle
Dispatches
 |
Altitech2:
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
battery.
See more here. |
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