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Annabelle Bond's journal:
Dispatch 1:
MARCH 22ND - D DAY
IM LIKE A CAGED LION, ON MY MOTHERS ADVICE THAT I MUST REST MY BODY PRIOR TO
THE HUGE EXERTION REQUIRED TO TRY AND CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST, I HAVE NOT RUN FOR
10 DAYS.. FOR ME THIS IS LIKE TAKING AWAY EATING FROM YOUR DAILY ROUTINE! IV
BEEN EXTREMELY BUSY CONSTRUCTING MY WEBSITE, NOT ONLY TO CREATE AWARENESS AND
TO FUNDRAISE FOR THE EVE APPEAL, BUT SO THAT MY FAMILY, FRIENDS AND ANYONE
ELSE WHOM MAY BE INTERESTED TO FOLLOW OUR CLIMB AND ABOUT LIFE AT EVEREST
BASECAMP! I HAVE TO MENTION MY AMAZING WEBSITE DESIGNER, JAMES GUEST AT THE
WORLDLINK CAFE IN ASPEN WHOM I SPEAK TO MORE THAN ANYONE ELSE THESE DAYS! I
HAD BEEN USING HIS INTERNET CAFE FOR 3 WEEKS ( DUE TO OURS BEING BROKEN AT
HOME) BUT IT WAS ONLY ONE DAY BEFORE I LEFT ASPEN, WHEN HE ASKED ME IF A I HAD
A LIFE OUTSIDE HIS CAFE ( I HAD BEEN BUSY DOING SOME WORK FOR ARCTERYX AND
NEEDED THE COMPUTER), THAT WE MADE CONTACT AND I DECIDED TO BUILD A WEBPAGE. I
HAVE TO THANK JAMES FOR PUTTING THIS ALL TOGETHER IN LESS THAN A WEEK!!
IM NOW SITTING ON THE PLANE TO KATMANDU AND THE ENORMITY OF WHAT I HAVE TAKEN
ON SUNK IN AS I BLUBBED MY WAY THROUGH TWO COMEDIES ON THE PLANE, MUCH TO THE
HORROR OF ANDRONICO LUKSIC. I WAS DREADING SAYING GOOD-BYE TO MY MOTHER AS WE
ALWAYS HAVE TEARFULL FAREWELLS ANYWAY, BUT BY CHANCE OUR GOOD-BYE WAS IN THE
MIDDLE OF A RESTAURANT, LUCKILY WE BOTH HELD IT TOGETHER (ISH) AND WE DIDN'T
CREATE ANY HUGE DISTURBANCE WHERE UPON ALL EYES WERE ON US!
WE ARE MEETING MOST OF THE GROUP IN KATMANDU AND THEN HEADING STRAIGHT TO
LUKLA ON 24TH MARCH. KIKO AND MISAIL HAVE GONE WITH OUR BASECAMP MANAGER AND
MAIN SHERPA PERTEMBA TO STAKE OUT A GOOD SPOT FOR US AT THE BASECAMP. ITS
GOING TO BE BUSY THIS YEAR AS OTHER EXPEDITIONS ASIDE, THERE ARE THE SCENERY
SHOTS OF A BIG MOVIE BEING SHOT ABOUT THE 1996 DISASTER ON EVEREST ( MORBID
THOUGHT AND NOT ONE I WANT TO THINK ABOUT) AND DAVID BREASHEARS THE IMAX GURU
WILL BE FILMING. HE HAS IN HIS TEAM ED VIESTURS, ONE OF AMERICAS BEST CLIMBERS
WITH HIM, HE IS ONE 8,000M PEAK AWAY FROM BEING THE FIRST AMERICAN MAN TO
CLIMB ALL THE 8,000M PEAKS WITHOUT OXYGEN.
FROM LUKLA WE ARE TAKING A SLOW WALK IN TO ENSURE THAT WE ACCLIMATIZE PROPERLY
AND YOU WILL NEXT HEAR FROM ME AT NAMCHE BAZAAR (11,000FT)IT IS ONE OF THE
BIGGER VILLAGES THAT WE WILL PASS THROUGH ON OUR WAY UP TO BASE CAMP. IM
DREADING THE FLIGHT TO LUKLA ON YETTI AIRLINES, I HATE FLYING AT THE BEST OF
TIMES AND FLYING INTO LUKLA TAKES SOME SKILL, NOT TO MENTION THE ROLLERCOASTER
RIDE THE PASSENGERS ENDURE!
I WAS LAST IN NEPAL IN APRIL 2001, AND IM LOOKING FORWARD TO GOING BACK.
HAVING TALKED RELENTLESSLY ABOUT THIS CLIMB, ITS SURREAL THAT ITS ALL FINALLY
HAPPENING. I AM NERVOUS AND I THINK I WILL REMAIN NERVOUS UNTIL I GO INTO THE
KHUMBU ICEFALL, ITS THE PART OF THE CLIMB THAT SCARES ME THE MOST, AND I NEED
TO GO AND ADDRESS THAT FEAR. THE KHUMBU ICEFALL IS THE GLACIER THAT WE NEED TO
PASS THROUGH TO GET FROM BASE CAMP TO CAMP 1, SOME 3,000 VERTICAL FEET ABOVE
BASECAMP AT 21,000FT. THE ICE FALL COMPRISES OF HUGE ICE TOWERS, THAT WITHOUT
ANY WARNING CAN FALL AT ANY GIVEN TIME. SOME CLIMBERS SAY ITS LIKE PLAYING
RUSSIAN ROULETTE PASSING THROUGH THE ICEFALL, ALTHOUGH DAVID BREASHEARS HAS
ASSURED ME THAT WITH ALL THE FIXED LINES AND LADDERS IT IS MUCH SAFER THESE
DAYS. I HOPE THIS IS THE CASE.
IM A GOOD 8LLBS HEAVIER AND READY FOR MY DIET OF DAHL BAHT (CURRIED LENTILS
AND RICE) ALTITUDE AND LENTILS DON'T REALLY GO WELL TOGETHER BUT ITS GOING TO
BE OUR STABLE DIET FOR THE NEXT 2 MONTHS! I WILL REPORT IN FROM NAMCHE BAZAAR!
Annabelle
Dispatch Two:
MARCH 24TH, 25TH,
26TH - MY CURRENT POSITION IS NAMCHE BAZAR!!
I AWOKE ON THE FLIGHT FROM
BANGKOK TO KATMANDU JUST IN TIME TO SEE MOUNT EVEREST FROM HE AEROPLANE
WINDOW. UNSURPRISINGLY SHE WAS LEVEL WITH THE PLANE AND I COULD SEE HER
FAMILIAR ICY PLUME OF WIND STREAMING FROM THE SUMMIT. THIS "PLUME" IS PART OF
THE JETSTREAM. THE JETSTREAM ARE EXTREMELY HIGH 100KM WINDS THAT
CIRCUMNAVIGATE THE EARTH. WE WERE DEBATING AT DINNER LAST NIGHT HOW THE SUMMIT
WINDOW OCCURS, I THOUGHT THAT IT WAS WHEN THE MONSOON WINDS ARRIVED AND THE
JETSTREAM CEASED FOR A FEW DAYS AT A TIME CREATING VARIOUS SHORT SUMMIT
OPPORTUNITIES IN MAY WHICH IS WHEN MOST PEOPLE TRY AND CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST.
RODRIGO JORDAN, OUR TEAM LEADER, DEBATED THAT THESE WINDOWS WHERE THE
JETSTREAM CEASES HAPPEN AT VARIOUS TIMES OF THE YEAR (REINHOLD MESSNER MADE
THE SUMMIT IN AUGUST) AND IT IS PART OF THE MAGIC AND MYSTERY OF THE
MOUNTAINS. AS IM NOT A METEOROLOGIST I COULD NOT DEBATE ANY FURTHER! IF YOU
ARE POSITIONED AT CAMP 4, IN GOOD HEALTH AND THE WEATHER IS GOOD YOU HAVE A
GREAT CHANCE TO REACH THE SUMMIT. IT IS A FRAGILE WINDOW OF OPPORTUNITY AND
YOUR MENTAL DISCIPLINE NEEDS TO PREVAIL THE PHYSICAL EXHAUSTION REQUIRED TO
TAKE YOU TO THE TOP OF THE WORLD.
UPON ARRIVAL IN KATMANDU I
HAD A BURNING THROAT AND BY THAT EVENING I WAS DEFINITELY FLU RIDDEN (
HYPOTHETICALLY SPEAKING AND I PRAY THIS DOESN'T HAPPEN, IF I WERE TO GET THIS
FLU NEAR OUR SUMMIT WINDOW, IT WOULD MOST PROBABLY COST ME MY CHANCE TO TRY
AND REACH THE SUMMIT AS I WOULD BE FORBIDDEN TO CLIMB HIGH WITH THIS COUGH)
THAT AFTERNOON WE HAD BEEN TO
A WAREHOUSE IN KATMANDU TO SORT ALL OUR GEAR INTO THE PLASTIC BLUE DRUMS THAT
ARE SO CHARACTERISTIC OF THESE EXPEDITIONS. THE DRUMS WERE GOING TO BASECAMP.
YOU NEEDED TO SEE TO BELIEVE HOW MUCH EQUIPMENT WE HAD HEADING TO BASECAMP - I
CANNOT IMAGINE HOW 20 EXPEDITIONS ( THAT IS HOW MANY THERE ARE CLIMBING FROM
THE NEPALESE SIDE THIS YEAR) WORTH OF EQUIPMENT WAS GOING TO FIT AT BASECAMP,
ITS GOING TO BE A ZOO UP THERE.
I MET OUR BASECAMP MANAGER
AND SHERPA PERTEMBA AND HE IS AN IMPRESSIVE MAN. HE WAS SIR CHRIS BONNINGTON'S
SHERPA ON HIS 1975 EXPEDITION TO CLIMB THE SOUTH WEST FACE OF EVEREST AND
PERTEMBA SUCCESSFULLY REACHED THE SUMMIT. AMAZINGLY ENOUGH ALL THEIR EQUIPMENT
CAME OVERLAND FROM THE UK - NEPAL, I JUST CANNOT IMAGINE THE LOGISTICAL
NIGHTMARE OF ORGANIZING THAT!!! PERTEMBA WAS ALSO INSTRUMENTAL IN CHANGING THE
ROUTE UP EVEREST IN THAT WE NOW HAVE 4 CAMPS WHEREAS PREVIOUSLY THERE HAD
ALWAYS BEEN SIX CAMPS.
THE DOMESTIC AIRPORT AT
KATMANDU WAS CHAOTIC AS USUAL, IM ALWAYS AMAZED THAT THEY CAN ACTUALLY GET
PEOPLE AND THEIR LUGGAGE ON THE RIGHT PLANES TO LUKLA WITH SOME FORM OF ORDER.
I SAW DEAD CHICKENS GOING PAST UNCOVERED WITH THE HOLD LUGGAGE AND I MADE A
MENTAL NOTE TO BE VEGETARIAN FOR THE NEXT TWO MONTHS! ALL OUR GROUP WAS ON
SKYLINE AIRLINES TO LUKLA. THE PLANE ARRIVED, PEOPLE DISEMBARKED, OUR LUGGAGE
WAS PILED IN, THE MILITARY, MUCH TO MY ANNOYANCE, THEN PILED IN A TON OF THEIR
EQUIPMENT AND FEARING THAT WE WOULD NEVER LEAVE THE GROUND WITH ALL THIS
WEIGHT, WE WERE CRAMMED IN LIKE SARDINES AND PROMPTLY AIRBORNE MUCH TO MY
AMAZEMENT! THESE FLIGHTS ARE OPERATED FAST AND FURIOUSLY FROM 7AM-MIDDAY AS
THE WEATHER THEN BECOMES TOO DANGEROUS TO FLY IN AND OUT OF LUKLA WHICH IS AT
9,000FEET. THE FLIGHT WENT WELL CONSIDERING, AND WE WERE SOON HAMMERING DOWN
THE RUNWAY AT LUKLA MUCH TO MY RELIEF!
WE HEADED STRAIGHT TO
PARADISE LODGE WHERE ALL OUR TREKKING BAGS WERE DIVIDED UP AMONGST THE
PORTERS. PERTEMBA SAYS WE HAVE 200 PORTERS WORTH OF GEAR ( IF WE WOULD BE
USING PORTERS) WE HAVE 4 TONS OF EQUIPMENT IF YOU CAN BELIEVE IT, AND ITS NOT
MY MAKE UP! WE ARE USING YAKS AND THE MAJORITY OF OUR GEAR HAS BEEN FLOWN TO
NAMCHE BAZAR BY HELICOPTER( THAT RELIC FROM THE AFGHAN WAR - RATHER OUR
EQUIPMENT THAN ME)
MARCELLO IS OUR LOGISTICS
ORGANIZER AND AN INVALUABLE MEMBER OF OUR TEAM. HE IS COMING WITH US TO BASE
CAMP TO SET UP OUR COMMUNICATIONS SYSTEMS ( VERY IMPORTANT FOR ME!) AND TO
MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS RUNNING SMOOTHLY, BEFORE HE HEADS BACK TO CHILE TO RUN
THE VERY SUCCESSFUL COMPANY VERTICAL THAT HE CO OWNS WITH RODRIGO JORDAN. POOR
MARCELLOS BAGS GOT LOST ON THE WAY TO LUKLA SO HE IS WITHOUT ALL HIS TREKKING
CLOTHES, I CAN EMPATHIZE WITH THE FRUSTRATION WHEN THIS HAPPENS BUT AMAZINGLY
ENOUGH MARCELLO LOOKS REMARKABLY CALM ( ITS PROBABLY NOTHING COMPARED TO
HANDLING THE LOGISTICS OF THIS TRIP)
ON OUR WALK FROM LUKLA TO
PHADKING, WHICH WAS BEAUTIFUL WE PASSED THE IRISH EXPEDITION, ALL DRESSED IN
GREEN. THEY ARE TRYING TO PLACE THE FIRST IRISH WOMAN ON THE SUMMIT. THEY HAVE
A CREW OF FRIENDS TREKKING IN AND I SPIED THE MOST GIGANTIC AMOUNTS OF BEER
FOLLOWING THEM!!
I WAS VERY DISTRESSED TO SEE
ONE PORTER CARRYING 3 EXPEDITION BAGS ON HIS BACK, ACCUMALATIVELY THEY MUST
HAVE WEIGHED 13OLLBS AND HE WAS ONLY 5 FT 6INCHES TALL. THE POOR PORTER WHO
LOOKED TO BE ABOUT 16 YEARS OLD WAS SHEET WHITE AND GASPING UNDER HIS HEAVY
LOAD ( I ACTUALLY THOUGHT HE WAS GOING TO HAVE A HEART ATTACK) I DIDN'T KNOW
WHAT TO DO, I OBVIOUSLY COULDN'T OFFER TO CARRY HIS LOAD SO I GAVE HIM SOME
MONEY. IF ANYONE READING THIS IS GOING TREKKING OR CLIMBING IN NEPAL PLEASE
SPEAK FIRMLY TO YOUR TREKKING COMPANY ORGANIZER IN KATMANDU ABOUT HUMANELY
DISTRIBUTING THE WEIGHT THAT THESE PORTERS CARRY. IT IS WITHIN OUR POWER TO
INSIST THEY DO NOT CARRY LOADS SUCH AS THE PORTER I WITNESSED ON THE TRAIL
TODAY. IT MIGHT MAKE YOUR TRIP TO NEPAL USD 100 MORE THAN U HAD BUDGETED BUT I
COULDN'T TREK WITH A CLEAR CONSCIENCE WITH A PORTER CARRYING 3 EXPEDITION
BAGS. ( IT IS A FACT THAT A LARGE NUMBER OF SHERPAS HAVE CURVATURE OF THE
SPINE DUE TO CARRYING VAST WEIGHTS AT AN AGE WHERE THE SPINE IS STILL
DEVELOPING) GIVEN THE AMOUNT OF PORTERS OUR EXPEDITION HAS EMPLOYED FOR THE
TREKKING I WAS RELIEVED TO SEE THAT THEY CARRIED NO MORE THAN ONE EXPEDITION
BAG OR TWO SMALLER BAGS EACH.
ASIDE FROM THE HORRIFIC
WEIGHTS, THE PORTERS ARE COMPLETELY ILL EQUIPPED CLOTHING WISE, PLEASE PLEASE
IF YOU COME TO NEPAL BRING ANY OLD CLOTHES, SHOES, EQUIPMENT THAT U DON'T NEED
OR USE WITH YOU AS IT WOULD MEAN A HUGE AMOUNT TO THE PORTERS HERE. AS I TREK
IM THINKING HOW I CAN HELP THESE PORTERS ON AN ONGOING BASIS, I APPRECIATE
THAT THIS IS VALUABLE LABOR HERE IN NEPAL BUT I THINK MAYBE WE CAN TRY AND GET
SOME FORM OF WEIGHT OR AGE RESTRICTION AND THEN THEY WOULD BE LESS EXPLOITED.
ILL KEEP YOU POSTED AS TO WHAT I COME UP WITH ON THIS MATTER.
IM NOW IN PHADKING AS I WRITE
THIS, AND WE LEAVE TOMORROW FOR NAMCHE BAZAR, A FOUR HOUR WALK UP THE VALLEY
AND SOME 2,000FEET HIGHER. IM JETLAGGED, HAVE FLU AND I STILL HAVE A FLUTTER
OF NERVES WHEN I THINK OF THE ICEFALL BUT IM HAPPY, FOCUSED AND DETERMINED. AB

Dispatch Three:
MARCH 27TH - NAMCHE BAZAR -
KHUMJUNG
NAMCHE BAZAR IS THE LAST MOST
CIVILIZED STOP ON OUR WAY TO BASECAMP. BY SAYING CIVILIZED, I MEAN NOW I WILL
HAVE NO MORE E-MAIL SERVICE UNTIL WE ARRIVE AT BASECAMP SO THIS WILL BE MY
LAST INPUT UNTIL APRIL 2ND WHEN WE ARE SCHEDULED TO ARRIVE AT BASE CAMP. WE
STAYED AT PANORAMA LODGE AND BY SHEER CO INCIDENCE ANDRONICO MET UP WITH A GUY
THAT HE HAD AN ARGUMENT WITH OVER PUSHING HIS SEAT TOO MUCH, ON THE PLANE TO
ANTARCTICA WHEN HE ATTEMPTED A "NEW ROUTE" ON MOUNT VINSON ( ONE OF THE SEVEN
SUMMITS). THEY ARE SUBSEQUENTLY NOW VERY FRIENDLY, AND NICO, WHO IS GREEK IS
ALSO HERE TO TRY AND CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST. I UPDATED MY DIARY, TWICE ACTUALLY,
AS THE FIRST TIME THE COMPUTER CRASHED MUCH TO MY ANNOYANCE. WE THEN PREPARED
TO MOVE TO KHUMJUNG ON MARCH 26TH AFTER LUNCH. IT IS AN EASY 2 HOUR WALK OVER
THE HILL TO KHUMJUNG, IT IS PERHAPS MOST FAMOUS FOR SIR EDMUND HILLARY'S
SCHOOL WHICH HE HAS WORKED EXTREMELY HARD ON OVER THE YEARS. THERE IS A STATUE
OF HIM JUST IN FRONT OF THE SCHOOL. AFTER SEEING THIS I WALKED PAST THE
AMADABLAM LODGE AND BUMPED INTO MY FRIEND DAVID BREASHEARS WHO WAS THERE WITH
HIS GROUP, WHOM AS I MENTIONED EARLIER ARE FILMING A BIG MOVIE PROJECT ON THE
1996 EVEREST DISASTER. DAVID ASIDE (HE HAS CLIMBED EVEREST 4 TIMES), I WAS
THEN INTRODUCED TO HIS INTIMIDATING GOOD TEAM OF CLIMBERS WHICH INCLUDED ED
VIESTURS, JIMMY CHIN, AND A FINNISH GUY, WHO ALL HAVE ABOUT 28 ASCENTS OF
EVEREST ACCUMULATIVELY BETWEEN THEM. THEY HAD A WOMAN GUIDE CALLED AMY WITH
THEM WHO WORKS FOR EXUM MOUNTAIN GUIDES IN JACKSON HOLE, SHE IS A VERY
IMPRESSIVE CLIMBER TOO AND IS TAKING THE MOVIE 'S DIRECTORS OVER THE KHUMBU
ICEFALL AND UP TO CAMP 1 OR EVEN HIGHER IF THEY ARE FEELING GOOD! SHE WILL
ALSO TRY AND MAKE THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT EVEREST CLIMBING ALONGSIDE DAVID, ED AND
CO. BEFORE I TURNED AROUND AND BOLTED BACK TO KATMANDU GETTING MORE
INTIMIDATED SPENDING TOO MUCH TIME WITH THIS IMPRESSIVE BUNCH OF CLIMBERS WHO
WERE ALL INCIDENTALLY, EXTREMELY NICE, I MADE MY WAY TO THE EVEREST BAKERY IN
KHUMJUNG (THE EVEREST BAKERY IS FAMOUS HERE AND THERE IS ONE IN NAMCHE AND ONE
IN KHUMJUNG!) AND ATE TWO PIECES OF APPLE PIE AND TRIED TO RELAX A BIT AND
CONVINCE MYSELF I CAN DO THIS!!
DUE TO 3 OF US BEING ILL WITH FLU WE NOW HAVE A SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT PLAN. WE
ARE SPENDING AN EXTRA DAY IN KHUMJUNG SO WE CAN TRY AND RECOVER BEFORE GOING
HIGHER ( RECOVERY IS IMPOSSIBLE HIGHER UP AS THE AIR IS SO DRY AND THE
COUGHING GETS WORSE AND PROBABLY EVEN MORE IRRITATING FOR THE REST OF THE
GROUP!) IT IS MY REST DAY AND I HAVE ZOOMED OVER THE HILL TO NAMCHE BAZAR
AGAIN SO I CAN WRITE MY DIARY! WE ARE MEETING THE GROUP THIS AFTERNOON AT THE
EVEREST VIEW HOTEL ABOVE KHUMJUNG AND WE WILL HOPEFULLY HAVE OUR FIRST GLIMPSE
OF THE MAGNIFICENT MOUNTAIN HERSELF. YESTERDAY IT WAS TOO CLOUDY AND DAVID
BREASHEARS TOLD ME THAT UP HIGH ON EVEREST YESTERDAY THE WINDS WOULD HAVE BEEN
100MPH FOR SURE. I WAS DEFINITELY GLAD TO BE IN KHUMJUNG!!
OUR TREKKING ROUTE IS TAKING US UP TO GOKYO LAKES. WE WILL LEAVE FOR DOLE
TOMORROW, SPEND ONE NIGHT AT MACHERMO AND THEN WE WILL GO TO GOKYO FROM THERE.
FROM GOKYO, WE WILL CLIMB GOKYO REE, A VIEWING POINT AT 5, 360 METRES AND THEN
WE WILL CLIMB OVER THE CHOLA PASS TO DZONGLHA. FROM DZONGLHA WE WILL HEAD TO
LOBUCHE AND HOPEFULLY ARRIVE AT BASECAMP ON 2ND APRIL. YOU CAN SEE OUR WHOLE
ROUTE ON THE MAP ATTACHED IN MY JOURNAL SECTION. I HAVE TO SCOOT BACK OVER TO
KHUNJUNG NOW AND SO NOW IM LEAVING THE LAST INTERNET CAFE FOR AWHILE! I THINK
MY FLU IS GETTING BETTER AND THE GROUP IS ALL PRETTY CHEERFUL! ADIOS FROM
NAMCHE! AB
Dispatch 4: MARCH 28TH AND 29TH
THE SCENERY ON OUR TREK TO DOLE WAS BEAUTIFUL, I GOT A GOOD LOOK AT LHOTSE
AND IT LOOKED EXTREMELY WINDY UP THERE ON THE SUMMIT ) I HAVE TO CONFESS THAT
I THOUGHT IT WAS EVEREST!) WE PASSED THROUGH PINE FORESTS, RIVERS AND ICE
FALLS AS WE HEADED UP TO DOLE AT 4,200M.
OUR LODGING STANDARDS TOOK A SHARP DECLINE HERE AS WE WERE LED INTO A SORT
OF BUNKER UNDER THE LODGE WHERE THERE WERE A DORMITORY OF ROOMS WITH FLEA
RIDDEN PILLOWS AND SHEETS.. WE MET UP WITH A GROUP OF TREKKERS WHO WERE ALSO
STAYING AT OUR LODGE WHO WERE LOVELY, SIAN FROM WALES AND ANGELA AND HER
BOYFRIEND FROM MELBOURNE. POOR THINGS EVERYONE HAD BEEN SICK WITH SOME STOMACH
VIRUS OR NEPAL BELLY, U NEVER KNOW AROUND HERE WHAT COULD CAUSE IT, AND I TOOK
THE NAMES OF THE ONLY TABLETS THAT CURE “NEPAL GIARDIA” FROM ANGELA WHO IS A
MICRO BIOLOGIST. HAVING HAD GIARDIA IN PERU I WAS NOT KEEN FOR A REPEAT
PERFORMANCE, ULL GET CONFIRMATION OF THAT FROM KAT AND VICTORIA WHO WERE
SHARING A ROOM WITH ME! WE THEN CAME ACROSS A POOR GERMAN GIRL CRYING IN THE
CORNER OF THE LODGE, SHE HAD THIS TERRIBLE STOMACH VIRUS AND COULDN'T WALK FOR
MORE THAN 50 FEET SHE WAS SO WEAK. SHE WAS LOOKING FOR A HORSE TO TAKE HER
DOWN TO NAMCHE BAZAR, LAST I HEARD THE ONLY AVAILABLE TRANSPORT WAS A YAK SO I
THINK SHE STAYED PUT!
FEELING LIKE I WAS IN SOME SORT OF INFIRMARY AND ANXIOUS NOT TO PICK UP A
STOMACH VIRUS ON TOP OF MY FLU, I MADE MYSELF SCARCE AND HEADED OUT FOR A
WALK.
HE EVENING PASSED UNEVENTFULLY UNTIL POOR PERTEMBA SLIPPED AND FELL
BACKWARDS DOWN THE STAIRS, A DROP OF ABOUT 15 FEET. THE WHOLE LODGE RUSHED TO
HIS AID BUT THANKFULLY HE WAS OK APART FROM A SORE KNEE. IT WOULD HAVE BEEN
TERRIBLE TO HAVE LOST OUR BASECAMP MANAGER AT THIS STAGE!
WE HAD A LEISURELY START THE NEXT DAY AND HEADED UP TO MACHERMO AT 4,460 M.
IT WAS A FAIRLY EASY WALK ADN WE HAD SPECTACULAR VIEW OF CHO YOU. WE ARE NOW
ONLY MEETING TREKKERS AS ALL THE OTHER EXPEDITIONS HEADED UP THE KHUMBU
VALLEY. WE ARRIVED IN MACHERMO AT NOON AND I HEADED OVER TO SEE THE TWO
AUSTRALIAN VOLUNTEER DOCTORS, WHOM I WAS DELIGHTED TO HEAR WERE THERE TO HELP
THE PORTERS IF THEY GOT SICK. ) FOR FREE FOR THE PORTERS AND WE PAY DOUBLE) I
PURCHASED THE ANTI GIARDIA PILLS AND HEADED BACK TO OUR LODGE FOR LUNCH. A
PRETTY SLOW DAY TODAY BUT GOOD FOR OUR ACCLIMATIZATION. WE LEAVE FOR GOKYO
TOMORROW AND IM THINKING THAT THIS IS THE LAST TIME ILL BE BELOW 16,500 FEET
FOR A WHILE. AB
Dispatch 5: MARCH 30TH AND 31ST GOKYO AND DRAGNAK
THE WALK TO GOKYO WAS ONCE AGAIN BEAUTIFUL, AS WE FOLLOWED THE RIVER
UPWARDS TOWARDS GOKYO LAKES. THE WEATHER CHANGED DRAMATICALLY AS WE ARRIVED AT
THE FIRST LAKE, WITH AN ICY WIND BLASTING OUR FACES. THE LAKES ARE HAF FROZEN
BUT NEAR THE SHORE THE WATER IS THE COLOUR OF THAT FOUND IN THE CARIBBEAN,
JUST A SLIGHT TEMPERATURE DIFFERENCE!! SURROUNDED BY SNOW CAPPED MOUNTAINS
GOKYO IS BREATHTAKING.
AFTER A 3 HOUR WALK WE ARRIVED AT FRIENDSHIP LODGE AND ANDRONICO AND I
DECIDED TO GO UP GOKYO REE A PEAK OF 5,357M AND OFFERING SPECTACULAR VIEWS. BY
THE TIME WE REACHED THE TOP OF GOKYO REE, OUR STUNNING VIEWS WERE REPLACED BY
HEAVY BLACK CLOUDS. WE DECENDED RAPIDLY, MY HANDS ARE STILL SUFFERING FROM THE
FROST BITE I GOT ON OUR LAST CLIMB IN CHILE ) MARMELECHO) AND I COULD FEEL THE
BURNING PAIN IN MY FINGERTIPS. THIS REALLY WORRIED ME, IF MY HANDS FEEL LIKE
THIS ON GOKYO REE WHAT THE HELL AM I GOING TO DO ON EVEREST- I WILL ENDEAVOUR
TO BE A LITTLE BETTER PREPARED AND NOT GET CAUGHT IN MY FLIMSY GLOVES! NOTHING
CHANGES QUICKER THAN THE WEATHER IN THE MOUNTAINS. MY ARCTERYX SHELL PANTS
HAVE BEEN A LIFE SAVER AND I LIVE IN THEM, THEY COMPLETELY SHIELD ME FROM THE
ICY WINDS WE KEEP ENCOUNTERING.
WE GOT BACK TO THE LODGE IN 2 AND A HALF HOURS AND HAD A LATE LUNCH OF DAL
BAHT. WHILE THE OTHERS GOT UP THE FOLLOWING MORNING I HAD A NICE LONG LIE IN
UNTIL 8.00AM. I GOT UP LEISURELY, PHONED MY SISTER LUCY IN HONG KONG AND
CHECKED THAT EVERYONE WAS OK AND WAITED FOR THE GROUP TO COME BACK FROM GOKYO
REE.
WE THEN HEADED TO DRAGNAK, OVER THE ROCKY MORAINE GLACIER, LOTS OF BOULDERS
COVERING ICY CLIFFS, YOU ALMOST FEEL LIKE YOU ARE ON THE MOON. IT WAS STRANGE
AS I WALKED OVER THIS UNDULATING BOULDER FIELDS, I WAS THINKING PROFOUNDLY FOR
A CHANGE ABOUT HOW QUICKLY LIFE CAN CHANGE. LAST TIME I WALKED THIS EXACT
ROUTE IN 2001 BUT HEADING TOWARDS GOKYO I WAS JUST ENGAGED TO MY BOYFRIEND OF
5 YEARS AND NOW 3 YEARS LATER ALMOST TO THE DAY IM BACK IN NEPAL ALONE TRYING
TO CLIMB THE WORLDS HIGHEST MOUNTAIN.
WE ARRIVED IN DRAGNAK AND STAYED AT PERTEMBAS BROTHERS LODGE, WE LEAVE OVER
THE CHOLA PASS TOMORROW ALL THE WAY TO LOBUCHE.ONE MORE DAY AND THEN WE WILL
BE IN BASECAMP AND REALITY WILL REALLY SINK IN. AB
Dispatches
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