Alan Hinkes Summits Dhaulagiri more details

Update: SUCCESS FOR BRITISH MOUNTAINEER ALAN HINKES ON DHAULAGIRI

- 13 DOWN AND ONE TO GO AS THE HISTORY BOOKS BECKON

Britain’s leading extreme altitude mountaineer Alan Hinkes has successfully climbed Dhaulagiri, the world’s seventh highest peak.  He has now reached the top of 13 of the 14 mountains that reach higher than 8,000m and is very close to completing “Challenge 8000”, his quest to be the first Briton to climb them all.

Alan, a leading member of the Berghaus team of climbers, reached the top of Dhaulagiri at noon on 17th May 2004, in exceptionally tough conditions.  Accompanying him to the summit was his Nepalese friend and climbing partner Pasang Gelu.  As ever, on reaching the top of the mountain Alan took out a photo of his daughter Fiona and had his summit photos taken.  He and Pasang then started their descent, often the most dangerous part of an expedition.

After a very difficult descent, Alan and Pasang finally reached base camp on the afternoon of 19th May 2004 Himalayan time.  There the expedition cooks rustled up plates of egg and chips, chapatis and some hot, milky tea.

Speaking to Berghaus direct from base camp Alan takes up the story: “The descent was incredibly scary, because the weather was becoming milder. Snow was melting and there was a lot of rock fall, which reminded me of my time on Nanga Parbat.

“A Slovenian expedition who reached the top a couple of days before me had climbed up virtually in their shirt sleeves. However, by the time I reached the summit on the 17th it was starting to cloud over. My first bivouac on descending was at 7,400m and it almost took off in the wind. On my way down I spent each night without a sleeping bag, managing in just my insulated clothing in a bivi.

“This has been a really tough expedition and a great effort from all of my team out here. I’ve successfully made it to the summit of Dhaulagiri and returned safely, which is always my main aim. All that stands in my way of climbing all 14 8000m peaks is Kangchenjunga and my focus over the next year will of course be on this final Challenge 8000 summit. For now though I want to get home, see Fiona and have a well earned rest!”

Alan has been experiencing generator problems since the start of his expedition and has been unable to contact the UK since leaving Kathmandu. However, thanks to the kindness of an Argentinean team who have allowed him to use their generator Alan managed to charge his phone battery and let Fiona and the team at Berghaus know the good news.  

Dhaulagiri is notorious for claiming the lives of the great British mountaineer Ginette Harrison and French mountaineer Chantelle Maudit, both highly experienced, and each with seven of the 14 8000’ers under their belts.

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