Update 4/28/2004: Yuri
Koshelenko called from Everest Camp.
Very tired voice. We've just
come to BC after 4 days working on the route. The weather is bad, no
visibility. Last year there were strong winds, this year there is a lot of
snow. But snow covered stones in the beginning of route, so the way became
We are OK. 8 pitches fixed up
to 7 500 meters high. Now Pavel Shabalin is on the route and they will set
The wall is huge, a lot of
work ahead. But everything is more or less normal.
Tomorrow if the weather
allows Shabalin's group will go higher. We set the route I marked but several
changes. The general line is the same. I think we reach 7 800- 8000 quit soon,
but this is the place of turn point all previous expeditions. We will see.
All the best, Liana
Translated by Liana at risk.ru for EverestNews.com
A combined team of Russian climbers supported by
the Russian Mountaineering Federation will begin a daring and unique attempt
to summit Everest. The team of 20 experienced climbers, many of the members of
a team that successfully climbed Lhotse in the spring of 2001, will take off
from Moscow bound for the Himalayas. The team will be attempting to summit via
an unclimbed route up the center of the North Face.
The expedition leader is Victor Kozlov, and the senior coach is Nikolay
Chernij. The final list of climbers was announced at a news conference at the
World Trade Center on February 20th.
Given its unique route the team has made special preparations for the
climb. A recon team traveled to the base of the mountain in May 2002 and began
planning the route up the center of the North Face. A second recon team began
a preliminary climb via the proposed route and reached a height of 6,800
The recon teams were able to gather some important information about the
coming climb. When it reaches the summit the team will have climbed a distance
of 4.5km and vertical altitude of 2.5km. Up to about 7,200 meters the climbers
will be traversing a rocky zone filled with ice that will give way to a
snowfield. The recon also puts the prospective altitude for the summit-push
camp at 8,200-8,300 meters.
According to Jury Ermachek the team expects to spend March on Ama Dablam
acclimatizing, then they will descend to Katmandu to rest and at the end of
March or the beginning of April the team will move to the base of Everest's
North Face. As the planned route is expected to take a lot of time the team
will begin fixing the route right away. Much will depend on the weather so the
sooner the work of the climb is begun the better.
Some of the team will likely use oxygen for the climb. Some will require
oxygen below 8,000 meters some only above the height. As some of the team have
not climbed 8,000-meter peaks their performance at that elevation will
determine oxygen use. The team will take oxygen with them on the final summit
push regardless, time will tell if it is needed or not. Ermachek also expects
that given the time of the year the team will encounter severe cold, high
winds and a shortage of oxygen on their ascent.
Leaders of groups: Yuri Koshelenko, Petr Kuznetsov (has the own route to
Everest), Pavel Shabalin
List of Members:
* Viktor Kozlov - head of the project, Moscow;
* Nikolai Tcherny - main coach of the team, Moscow;
* Alexandr Piatnizyn - coach from Rostov-on-Don;
* Doctor - Sergei Bychkovski, Ekaterinburg;
* Camera man (to 6200m) igor Borisenko, Sergei Shakunin;
* Photo Vladimir Kuptsov;
1. Yuri Koshelenko (Rostov-on-Don); (he was nominated on Piolet d'or four
times, the winner of the Piolet d'or for the ascent on Nuptse East)
2. Petr Kuznetsov (Krasnoyarsk); (he was on Everest twice- the first time
via the classical route, the second -North Face first ascent)
3. Pavel Shabalin (Kirov); (Ak-Su - 10 climbs; first ascent Changabang,
4. Eugeni Vinogradski (Ekaterinburg): (Everest four climbs (all with
oxygen), three climbs on Cho Oyu)
5. Yuri Ermachek (Ekaterinburg); (the winner of the Piolet d'or for the
ascent on Makalu, Western Face, Everest,)
6. Nikolai Zhilin (Ekaterinburg); (the winner of the Piolet d'or for the
ascent on Makalu, Western Face, Khan Tengri)
7. Andrei Mariev (Togliatty); (k2, first ascent Changabang, Northern face,
8. Viktor Volodin (Moscow); (Everest, peak Urriellu, Marks peak, Engels
peak, peak Korzhenevskoy, Communism peak, Lenin Peak)
9. Viktor Bobok (Moscow); (a high-speed ascent on peak Korzhenevskoy - 11
hours from base camp; Shkhelda in a two-men team with J.Koshelenko, Shisha
10. Vladimir Arhipov (Krasnoyarsk); (Pobeda Peak, Khan Tengri peak, peak
Korzhenevskoy, Lenina peak)
11. Gleb Sokolov (Novosibirsk); (Lenina peak, Communism Peak, peak
Korzhenevskoy, high-speed solo to Khan Tengri).
12. Ilias Tukhvatullin (podolsk-Tashkent); (Everest, Ak-Su - 6 ascents,
Khan Tengri, Northern face).
13. Alexey Bukinich (Sochi); 22 years - the youngest participant of the
team, experience of ascents on "7-thousand" mountains.
Plans. they started Feb 25 from Moscow to Dehli. Then - acclimatisation
climbing to Amadablam. Then - BC of Everest. The end of the expedition - June
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
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