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  2004 Italian Everest North East Ridge Route Expedition


Latest News: The report: Here follows a brief summary of our ascent together with some pictures. The Italians were wrong, Adriano was never (and obviously is not) missing. Simply there was a lack communications of 24 hours during his descent from summit. He actually reached abc on 22 may coming down from camp 2 after spending the night of 21 there. The problem was that the 20 and 21 the weather was not good and he had no radio. So until he came down to abc we were not able to locate him. But here follows the full story:

As you know, we were a little and independent amateur expedition of 4 members. Marco and Sandra hired just one climbing sherpa. Adriano and I made all by ourselves. Marco Tossutti, Alessandra (Sandra) Canestri and Dowa Sherpa all successfully summited on 18 may at 11:00 a.m., coming back for the night to camp3, where Adriano and I were waiting for our turn to climb the day after. So, at midnight of 19 may Adriano and I left c3 to summit. But Adriano experienced soon a problem with his oxygen regulator (likely due to frost) and returned to our tent at c3. I continued alone and got to summit at 9:30 a.m. of 19 may. I stayed one hour to the top and then came back without problem. That day, I saw two Spanish girls before me together with an Italian of K2 team (Daniele Nardi) then I saw 3 japans arriving on top just when I was beginning coming down. At 13:30 I was back to c3, where Adriano told me he intended to try again that night. I stayed in the tent at c3 one more night while he left around 23:00 of the same day (19 may). The morning after the weather had changed and at 9 a.m. I began my descent to c2 while it was snowing.

Adriano made alone his way up to the summit in the clouds and descended in the storm, arriving at c3 at 17:00 of  20 may, where he also spent the night. The morning after (21 may) I arrived to abc while Adriano went to c2, where he spent one more night, like I did before. On 22 mat Adriano arrived at abc. The lack of communications made him “missing”, but he was fine and healthy, though tired. That’s all.

One more note: Sandra was the first Italian women to reach successfully Everest top from Tibetan side (the first one was Emanuela di Centa from Nepal side, last year). Sandra wants to point out that she did not actually reach the summit, stopping just 30 meters below the top, as in the picture alleged.

Thanks for your kindness and for the hospitality in your site. Giuseppe

Latest News: 4/28/2004 I am working out some logical problems. I was hiring a second cook, but then found that the cook has recovered, so I am waiting at the Tea house to tell the second cook I do not need him. Our camp above the North col is set up. We are looking at a summit attempt around May 18-25th, of course on Everest this can be changed.

We are told over a foot of snow fell on the North col yesterday, in 3 hours.

4/24/2004 at ABC and planning to head up to the North Col soon.

Mt Everest 2004 Cresta nord est Expedition. We are an Italian team of 4 members (3 men and a woman). We will make an attempt alpine style (no porters and, for 2 of us, without oxygen) to the Chomolungma North East Ridge Route (Chinese side). Below find a short English summary.

2004 Italian Everest North East Ridge Route Expedition

Introduction: Many modern Himalayan expeditions differ from the very first ones of half a century ago mainly by a technical viewpoint. No more use of large amount of men and money but instead small groups of climbers who perform quick ascents alpine style, without the help of Sherpas, oxygen and fixed ropes. All this is made possible by the better knowledge of mountains, by the great medical advancements in high altitude physiology and, last but not least, by the tremendous improvements in technical materials. Following this philosophy, our ascent will try to show that reaching one of the most challenging goals of the recent past (i.e. climbing Mt. Everest by fair means) can now be within the reach of the non-professional, amateur climber, provided one undergoes a serious training together with an adequate experience of high altitude ascents.

The North East Ridge Route: The route following the north east ridge is one of the two "normal routes" of Mount Everest. Historically, it was the first route where serious summit attempts took place (1922 and 1924). After the first successful climb in 1953 from the Nepal side, the second successful expedition was the Chinese team on the North Ridge in 1960. Although there are several variations known, the route of 1960 is the most frequently used one on the north side. Conditions change from year to year. The overall difficulty is about PD, not considering the altitude. Except for the three Steps, there are only short sections where one needs the hands for climbing; the rest is walking terrain. On the summit day, this walking terrain is rather exposed over the complete length.

The Ascent: Our Expedition considers a whole duration of about 2 months during 2004 spring. From Italy to Kathmandu, one leaves the main road near Tingri (from where also Cho Oyu is reached). Via Lamna La Pass (5100 m), we enter the Rongbuk valley which leaves the Everest region northward. Here, at an altitude of about 5000 m, Rongbuk monastery is located. The base camp is located in the valley about 8 km south of Rongbuk monastery at about 5170 m. This is the furthermost point which can be reached by vehicle. Unfortunately, the distance to Mount Everest is still twenty kilometres as the crow flies. It would be desirable to have the base camp no higher than 5300 m, since one cannot acclimatize completely above this height. Therefore, an advanced base camp, ABC, will be established closer to the mountain. Here one spends most of the time. In case there are acclimatization problems, one has to return to the base camp for a couple of days. Also for a better recovery before a summit attempt one might want to spend some days at base camp. From a tactical point of view, the advantage of being close to the mountain compensates for the hard life in the ABC. From the base camp we follow the Rongbuk Glacier for some five kilometres until the valley of the Eastern Rongbuk Glacier joins. Then we follow this valley; it soon levels off. The junctions of the Far East Rongbuk Glacier and Changtse Glacier are passed by around several curves, until - having made about 13 kilometres in the valley - the place of the ABC is reached. It is situated at about 6400 m on the north-western side moraine of East Rongbuk Glacier, under the slopes of Changtse. From ABC we plan to reach the summit by three high camps. Giuseppe POMPILI

Giuseppe POMPILI
Marco Tossutti
Adriano Dal Cin
Alessandra Canestri

The Team

 
Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

 






 

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