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  Bulgarian Everest Expedition 2004


Update: Final Results: Bulgarians and one sherpa on Everest are: Petko Totev (with oxygen: Camp 2-Camp 3-Summit- Camp 3-Camp 2, he slept  with oxygen), Tendi Sherpa (with oxygen Camp 3-Summit-Camp 3): Nikolay Petkov (with oxygen from Camp 3 to Summit, one full bottle + 1/5 bottle), Doychin Boyanov - without oxygen, Hristo Hristov - without oxygen (died on the way back). Source: Peter Atanasow Note this corrects some of the earlier information reported by the Bulgarian expedition

Update: The Bulgarian climber Hristo Hristov died on the descent. Abramov found his body at 8 700 and then Dmitri Moskalev made pictures of corpse because Bulgarian asked him to do it. Report of Dmitri Moskalev

Update 5/24/2004: The missing Bulgarian climber, Hristo Hristov, has been found dead...

in other news: Mariana Maslarova, is attempting to be the first Bulgarian woman to summit Everest. She has been reported to have the second step so far... and heading up... She is part of the Mt. Everest 2004: INTERNATIONAL II EVEREST EXPEDITION 2004 SPRING for more on Mariana Maslarova see here expedition page.

Update 5/23/2004:  Dear friends, Please all expedition members who were at the area of the summit on 20 May 2004 for more information and details about missing Bulgarian who made attempt for the summit this day. We are looking for any information, all conversations that took place with him or with other two Bulgarians who made the top this day and their moving. Please, send detailed information regarding this case, and all that happened on 20 May 2004! Thank You for the Help! Best Regards! Any information Kiril Rusev /President of the Climbing & Mountaineering comeety of the Federation of Bulgarian Alpine Clubs (FBAC)/ e-mail to

Last info: May 20: Nikolay Petkov and Doichyn Boyanov reached Everest without oxygen (Chhristo Chhristov - probably too). Chhristo Chhristov is missing on the North Side. The mountaineer was last seen some 50 meters beneath the peak while descending  on Thursday. May 22: A leader of the Bulgarian Mount Everest Metodi Savov stopped the expedition. All member descend to ABC (6400 m). Source: Peter Atanasow

May 20: Two Bulgarians on Everest without oxygen!

Nikolay Petkov (46) and Doychin Boyanov (27) ascended Mount Everest via Chinese Route from North without oxygen. Chhristo Chhristov resignated on 8600 m. Ivan Valchev, Ivan Temelkov and Stanimir Zhelyazkov reached Camp 2 (7800 m) from Camp 1 (7055 m). Source: Peter Atanasow

May 19: Bulgarian and Sherpa on the top. Petko Totev and Tendi Sherpa reached Everest  yesterday via Chinese route from North. They descend from Camp 3 (8300 m) to Camp 2 (7800 m) today. Nikolay Petkov, Chhristo Chhristov and Doychin Boyanov ascend from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (8300 m).  Source: Peter Atanasow

May 18: We have no information on the action of Petko Totev and Tendi Sherpa today. They forgot their wireless sender in Camp 2 (7800 m). Nikolay Petkov, Chhristo Chhristov and Doychin Boyanov reached Camp 2 (7800 m) from Camp 1 (7055 m). Ivan Valchev, Ivan Temelkov and Stanimir Zhelyazkov will ascend from ABC (6400 m) to Camp 1 (7055 m) tomorrow.

May 17: Petko Totew (from Camp 2, 7800 m) and Tendi Sherpa (from Camp 1, 7055 m) reached Camp 3 (8300 m) and will attempt to summit ascent tomorrow with oxygen. Nikolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov and Chhristo Chhristov are in the Camp 1 (7055 m), Ivan Valchev, Ivan Temelkov and Stanimir Zhelyazkov – in the ABC (6400 m).

May 16: Ms. Cveta Misheva resigned on account of pain in back and descended from Camp 1 (7055 m) on the North Col or Chang La to ABC (6400 m). Petko Totev ascended from Camp 1 (7055 m) to Camp 2 (7800 m). Nikolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov and Chhristo Chhristov reached ABC from Camp Intermediate (5800 m)

Metodi Savov, Ivan Valchev, Ivan Temelkov and Stanimir Zhelyazkov are in the Base Camp (5150 m).

May 15: Ms. Cveta Misheva and Petko Totev reached Camp 1 (7055 m) on Chang La, Nikolay Petkov, Chhristo Chhristov and Doychin Boyanov – Camp intermediate (5800 m). But the forecasts are bad – the humidity on all level is 90-100% during the period of May 15-22

May 14: Tendi Sherpa reached 8300 m and transported equipment for Camp 3. Ms. Cveta Misheva and Petko Totev will start from ABC (6400 m) to Camp 1 (7055 m) tomorrow. Nikolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov and Chhristo Christov reached BC (5150 m) from Xegar (or Shegar, 4100 m).

May 13: Tendy Sherpa ascended to Camp 1 (7055 m). Nikolay Petkov, Chhristo Chhristov and Doychin Boyanov will reach in Camp Intermediate (5800 m, from Xegar or Shegar, 4100 m, to Base Camp, 5150 m, by jeep) tomorrow.

May 12: 10-members Bulgarian Mount Everest Expedition “clears the deck for action ” i. e. prepares to attempt on the “Top of the world” without oxygen. Ms.Tzveta Misheva, medicine Dr. Mrs. Karina Salova, Petko Totev and Tendi Sherpa are in the ABC (6400 m). Metodi Savov (leader), Ivan Temelkov, Chhristo Chhristov, Ivan Valchev, Nikolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov, Stanimir Zhelyazkov are in Xegar (Shegar, 4100 m).

May 11, 2004 Nikolay Petkov, Ivan Temelkov, Chhristo Chhristov, Ivan Valchev, Doychin Boyanov, Stanimir Zhelyazkov and leader Metodi Savov descended from BC (5150 m) to Xegar (Shegar, 4100 m) to rest in the next few days. Ms. Tzveta Misheva Dr. Mrs. Karina Salova, Petko Totev and Tendi Sherpa (Everest by South-East Ridge, May 24, 2001) are in the ABC (6400 m).

Update May 10, 2004: Nikolay Petkov, Ivan Temelkov, Chhristo Chhristov, Ivan Valchev, Doychin Boyanov, Stanimir Zhelyazkov and leader Metodi Savov are in the BC (5150 m), Ms.Tzveta Misheva Dr. Mrs. Karina Salova and Petko Totev – in the ABC (6400 m). All members of the Bulgarian Mount Everest Expedition will rest in the next few days.

Update May 9, 2004: Nikolay Petkov, Ms.Tzveta Misheva, Ivan Temelkov and Chhristo Chhristov who passed the last night in Camp 2, descended to ABC (6400 m). Down there are medicine Dr. Karina Salova, Ivan Valchev, Doychin Boyanov, Stanimir Zhelyazkov and Petko Totev. All members of the Bulgarian Mount Everest Expedition led by Metodi Savov will descend tomorrow to BC (5150 m) because forecast is bad – winds about west 20-25 m/s, from Monday 25-30 m/s (in the middle of the week at times 30-35 m/s). But the time presses… 

Update 5/8/2004: Second group of the Bulgarian Mount Everest Expedition – Nikolay Petkow, Ms. Tzveta Misheva, Ivan Temelkov and Chhristo Chhristov, reached Camp 2 (~7800 m) from Camp 1 (7055 m).

First group - Ivan Valchev, Doychin Boyanov, Stanimir Zhelyazkov and Petko Totev who passed the last night in Camp 2, descended to ABC (6400 m). Down there is medicine Dr. Karina Salova.

Update 5/7/2004: "Ivan Valchev (Everest by Western Ridge, 1984, Makalu without oxygen, 1999), Stanimir Zhelyazkov (Broad peak, 2001), Petko Totev (Broad peak, 2001) from Bulgarian Mount Everest expedition led by Metodi Savov from North, via Chinese Route, established his Camp 2.

Nikolay Petkov (Everest, 1984, Dhaulagiri), Miss Cveta Misheva, Chhristo Chhristov (new route on Thalay Sagar -“Between the Sun and the Shadow”, 2003) and Ivan Temelkov reached Camp 1 (7055 m) on Chang La or North Col."

Background

Bulgarian mountain climbers returned from a trial expedition (July 16-August 12) to Pamirs as they prepare for next year's Everest by Chinesse Route from North attempt. The 13 Bulgarians climbed Mt

Kaufmann (former Peak Lenin, 7134 m) in Tajikistan: Tzveta Misheva (f), Milkana Ruseva (f), Michail Michailov, Boyan Petrov, Doychin Boyanov, Toncho Tonchev, Ivan Temelkov, Christo Christov, Stanimir Zhelyazkov, Ilian Michailov, Nikolay Dikov and Nikolay Petkov (July 31, August 1 and 5)

The chiefs of the 24-strong expedition Nikolay Petkov and Metodi Savov -- who lost his legs during an Mt Everest climb in 1984 -- have now to select a smaller team to storm the world's highest peak.

The Bulgarian 2004 expedition to Mt Everest is planned to feature a woman who is also expected to be named on ground of the Kaufmann performances.

The Team

 

BULGARIAN EVEREST 2004 EXPEDITION 

 

 

Leaving Ktm for Tibet on 3rd April

 

 

CLIMBING MEMBERS

 

 

Name Nationality

1

Mr. METODI STEFANOV SAVOV

Bulgarian

2

Mr. NIKOLAY MIHAYLOV PETKOV

Bulgarian

3

Mr. IVAN GEORGIEV VALCHEV

Bulgarian

4

Ms. KARINA SALOVA IVANOVA

Bulgarian

5

Ms. TZVETA DIMITROVA MISHEVA

Bulgarian

6

Mr. DOYCHIN VENCISLAVOV BOYANOV

Bulgarian

7

Mr. IVAN GEORGIEV TEMELKOV

Bulgarian

8

Mr. PETKO PETKOV TOTEV

Bulgarian

9

Mr. STANIMIR IVANOV ZHELYAZKOV

Bulgarian

10

Mr. HRISTO GANCHEV HRISTOV

Bulgarian

 
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