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  Mt. Everest 2004 Status 5/12/2004


copyrightęGeorge Dijmarescu 2004

South Side (Nepal): It looks like the film team of David Breashears, Ed Viesturs, Gustafsson, etc, and the Greek team of Panagiotis Kotronardos (leader), Pavlos Tsiantos, Michalis Styllas, Antonis Aantonopoulos, Giorgos Voutyropoulos, and Spiros Soulis want to head up first on the Camp 3 on the 13th, Camp 4 on the 14th, and attempt the summit on the 15th. The film team would like other climbers NOT to be in the film, therefore they have a reason to go ahead. The Greeks are telling people the 16th are the date, but that they are going with the film team. Andres and Mexican/Canadian team will probably be in the mix, too...

What should not be downplayed is that on the 13th the lead Sherpa team will move from C2 to the Col in preparation for fixing rope to the Balcony on the 14th.  This Sherpa team will be comprised of two Sherpas from each of the IMG, Korean, and Himalayan Guides groups. Each of these Sherpas climbers will probably not summit Everest this year unless in another attempt. In addition to each of these teams, IMG, Korean, and Himalayan Guides, uses up 2 potential summit Sherpa, plus oxygen, plus South Col supplies. So  it's not just about laying out a bit of rope...

Several teams are in line for the second wave, including IMG, Mountain Madness (17th attempt announced) Koreans, Peak Promotions, etc... Some will wait for the trail to be broken and the ropes to be fixed, if possible...

The North Side (Tibet), is a less clear, with the Greeks again trying to make the move, so they can meet the South Side climbers at the summit. But the ropes from high camp to the ridge are not in, and very few if any high camps are in (YIKES!); as the wind has been hammering the North side (Video). No news of an agreement to fix the upper route...

Yan Giezendanner predicts that the winds are changing from northwest to west, with good weather on the 13th and 14th but 80mph winds on both days up high on the north side. On the 15th he is predicting the wind to drip a little, which would allow STRONG EXPERIENCED CLIMBERS a chance of summiting if conditions hold. On the 16th and 17th, he predicts the winds to get lower but snow will move in. He predicts snow both afternoons... Again, these are FORECASTS.

Dicey at this point...

 

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