weather and lunacy episodes at the Worlds Rooftop
CB Everest, April 26- 3.00 pm
(11.00 Italian time )
Today, bad weather
conditions, snow and fog, caused nearly all mountaineers to stay at the base
camp where they could relax and have some good time. In the morning, Soro
Dorotei, Michele Compagnoni, Alex Busca and Silvio Mondinelli went up directly
to advanced base camp where they set up a photovoltaic system. Their staying
up there will very much depend on weather conditions which should be awful in
the next three days.
Taking advantage of last
sunlight shafts, K2 2004 expedition team have improvised a beauty-parlour in
the tent cantine which was unanimously appreciated. Everybody apart from "Big
Mario Panzeri", for obvious reasons could finally have their hair washed.
Tarcisio BellÚ "the
phenomenon" was elected "character of the day". His last enterprise was to
literally devour the best of food supplies, serving to his expedition mates
pasta with pesto sauce and, for dessert, a radicchio tart.
Glaciology researcher Gianni
Mortara also did his best to attract everybody's attention wearing a pair of
yak horns. He was, indeed, successful!.
April 27, 2004 -
1.00 o'clock base camp (09.00 Italian time): The voice of Soro Dorotei is loud
and clear while we listen to him speaking on his satellite phone. He is at the
advanced base camp (6400 m.): "This morning, together with Gnaro (Silvio
Mondinelli's nickname) and our Sherpas we climbed up to 7000 m where we set up
camp I, right under the North Col. Then we went back to the advanced base camp
and then to base camp. Suddenly weather turned nice and we were told it would
have very probably stayed like that for 4 more days. Well, we thought, forget
about going back: at THEM !"
the evening the weather was still awful and there was a snow blizzard - Soro
said -when we woke up at dawn the weather was good and the sky incredibly
clear!. Tomorrow morning I will climb up with Gnaro at camp I. We will stop
there for the night. Our goal is reaching further high in the day after
tomorrow, up to 7600 m to try and set up camp II. In the meantime, our friends
at base camp will start heading for the advanced base camp, and then camp I.
We'll see what will happen then!."
First images at Camp I
The first images of Camp I,
which was set up yesterday at around at 7000 m., slightly underneath Everest
Everest camp I was set up
yesterday at 7000 m, underneath the North Col. Today, as already announced,
Soro Dorotei and Silvio Mondinelli will stop there, to try and set up camp II
at around 7600 m.
The other K2 2004
mountaineers will leave base camp today (4/28/2004) to start their climb
towards the upper camps.
|At Camp I
Everest/K2 2004 expedition Expedition
Strong winds at the Everest, made the setting up of Camp
April 29 2004 - 4.00 pm base
camp (12.00 Italian Time )
Clear sky and a very strong wind is blowing today at the Everest . So strong
that K2 2004 mountaineers have had to give up the ascent to 7800m and the
setting up of Camp II.
"Yesterday, together with Silvio Mondinelli, Michele Compagnoni and Alex Busca
who joined us later I slept at camp I - says vice expedition leader Soro
Dorotei - the weather was settled and quite hot. This morning we left very
early to try and set up camp II. Above 7000 m the wind was too strong and we
preferred going back and wait for better weather conditions.
At lower altitudes the situation was completely different: probably the nicest
day since the beginning of the expedition: "Today all mountaineers have left
the base camp and are climbing up - explains Massimo Cappon - the weather is
lovely and at least up to the intermediate camp, where I am, there is no wind.
Soro and company, before evening will go back to the advanced base camp. In
the meantime, Mario Panzeri and Marco Confortola went up to camp I and they
will also try the ascent tomorrow.
Weather forecast in the next few days are not encouraging but Soro Dorotei
does not seem to be particularly worried : "We are on schedule! We are even
ahead of time".
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