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 Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition


Update

Bad weather and lunacy episodes at the Worlds Rooftop

CB Everest, April 26- 3.00 pm (11.00 Italian time )

Today, bad weather conditions, snow and fog, caused nearly all mountaineers to stay at the base camp where they could relax and have some good time. In the morning, Soro Dorotei, Michele Compagnoni, Alex Busca and Silvio Mondinelli went up directly to advanced base camp where they set up a photovoltaic system. Their staying up there will very much depend on weather conditions which should be awful in the next three days.

Taking advantage of last sunlight shafts, K2 2004 expedition team have improvised a beauty-parlour in the tent cantine which was unanimously appreciated. Everybody apart from "Big Mario Panzeri", for obvious reasons could finally have their hair washed.

Tarcisio BellÚ "the phenomenon" was elected "character of the day". His last enterprise was to literally devour the best of food supplies, serving to his expedition mates  pasta with pesto sauce and, for dessert, a radicchio tart.

Glaciology researcher Gianni Mortara also did his best to attract everybody's attention wearing a pair of yak horns. He was, indeed, successful!.

April 27, 2004 - 1.00 o'clock base camp (09.00 Italian time): The voice of Soro Dorotei is loud and clear while we listen to him speaking on his satellite phone. He is at the advanced base camp (6400 m.):  "This morning, together with Gnaro (Silvio Mondinelli's nickname) and our Sherpas we climbed up to 7000 m where we set up camp I, right under the North Col. Then we went back to the advanced base camp and then to base camp. Suddenly weather turned nice and we were told it would have very probably stayed like that for 4 more days. Well, we thought, forget about going back: at THEM !"

"Yesterday in the evening the weather was still awful and there was a snow blizzard  - Soro said  -when we woke up at dawn  the weather was good and the sky incredibly clear!. Tomorrow morning I will climb up with Gnaro at camp I. We will stop there for the night. Our goal is reaching further high in the day after tomorrow, up to 7600 m to try and set up camp II. In the meantime, our friends at base camp will start heading for the advanced base camp, and then camp I. We'll see what will happen then!."  

4/28/2004: First images at Camp I

The first images of Camp I, which was set up yesterday at around at 7000 m., slightly underneath Everest North Col.

Everest camp I was set up yesterday at 7000 m, underneath the North Col. Today, as already announced, Soro Dorotei and Silvio Mondinelli will stop there, to try and set up camp II at around 7600 m.

The other K2 2004 mountaineers will leave base camp today (4/28/2004) to start their climb towards the upper camps.

Towards camp I
North Col
At Camp I

copyright Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition Expedition

4/29/2004: Strong winds at the Everest, made the setting up of Camp II impossible

April 29 2004 - 4.00 pm base camp (12.00 Italian Time )

Clear sky and a very strong wind is blowing today at the Everest . So strong that K2 2004 mountaineers have had to give up the ascent to 7800m and the setting up of Camp II.

"Yesterday, together with Silvio Mondinelli, Michele Compagnoni and Alex Busca who joined us later I slept at camp I  - says vice expedition leader  Soro Dorotei - the weather was settled and quite hot. This morning we left very early to try and set up camp II. Above 7000 m the wind was too strong and we preferred going back  and wait for better weather conditions.

At lower altitudes the situation was completely different: probably the nicest day since the beginning of the expedition: "Today all mountaineers have left the base camp and are climbing up - explains Massimo Cappon - the weather is lovely and at least up to the intermediate camp, where I am, there is no wind.

Soro and company, before evening will go back to the advanced base camp. In the meantime, Mario Panzeri and Marco Confortola went up to camp I and they will also try the ascent  tomorrow.

Weather forecast in the next few days are not encouraging but Soro Dorotei does not seem to be particularly worried : "We are on schedule! We are even ahead of time".

 

Dispatches

 
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