Italians to make assault on Everest's summit: Italian Everest/K2 2004 expedition

Everest: on Monday the first assault to the summit

This morning a small  team of K2 2004 mountaineers has left the advanced base camp heading towards Mount Everest Summit. Weather conditions have improved and should remain stable until May 17.

This morning a small team of K2 2004 mountaineers has left the advanced base camp heading towards Mount Everest Summit. Weather conditions have improved and should remain stable until May 17.

Today the team which was made up of Mario Merelli, Mario Panzeri, Karl Unterkircher, Giampaolo Gioia, Alex Busca, Claudio Bastrentaz, Paolo Comune, Sergio Minoggio, has moved to Camp I,  North Col.

According to schedule, in the next three days the mountaineers should reach  camp II (m. 7800)  and camp III (which will be set up tomorrow by the Sherpa), and which is more similar to a bivouac (one tent only 8300m ) from where the assault to the summit will be led.

Today all K2 2004 mountaineers were reaching the advanced base camp as well as Soro Dorotei, vice expedition leader, and Silvio " Gnaro" Mondinelli,.

Also the Georadar has been brought to camp I, today. The Georadar is, in fact the great scientific novelty of K2-2004 Project and is the instrument which will allow for the carrying out of Everest and K2 re-measurement.

and

May 14, 2004 - 15:00 hrs. (3:00 p.m. local time - 11:00 p.m. italian time) 

It is with great emotion that from our tents at ABC, we view the departure of our teammates in the first team headed for the summit of Everest. Conditions have decidedly improved for the better.  The weather forecast predicts a favorable window of opportunity for a summit attempt between the 15th and the 17th of May. 

Everything seems favorable for this first attempt.  The team that is moving upwards to camp 1 today is comprised of: Mario Merelli, Mario Panzeri, Karl Unterkircher, Giampaolo Gioia and the valdostans: Alex Busca, Claudio Bastrentaz, Paolo Comune and Sergio Minoggio. 

Their plan is to make upwards progress over the next 3 days, going from camp 1 to camp 2 at 7800 meters (where 3 small tents have been set up by our 4 tibetan climbers), then to move up to camp 3 the next day (which will be set up by the sherpa climbers tomorrow) - not much more than a bivouac camp at 8300 meters - a last rest stop before the final summit bid.

All of the departing climbers seemed relaxed and serene, convinced that this represents the first best opportunity of the Everest-K2-2004 expedition.  Meanwhile, all of the other climbers will also be moving up the mountain today, heading towards ABC, including co-leader Soro Dorotei and Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli.  The general feeling is that this next week will prove to be the decisive one for the expedition.

Along with the climbers today, the Georadar-GPS equipment, the latest technological marvel of the Everest-K2 team, is also moving up the mountain.  Yesterday the equipment arrived at ABC.  Fortunately, a last minute equipment check revealed that the GPS batteries were completely discharged.

From base camp a battery charger was brought up the mountain to ABC in a non-stop effort by technician Marco Lipizer of the Giorgio Poretti team. Thanks to his effort, the equipment is now in good working order and so the GPS, which will have to be positioned on the last bit of solid rock nearest the summit, has also begun its ascent up the north face. 

copyright Italian expedition Everest/K2 2004 expedition Expedition

 

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