have K2 2004 mountaineers chosen to summit Everest?
K2-2004: Mt Everest via the North Ridge
It is one amongst Tibetan side
most popular routes. In 1960, Mt Everest was successfully climbed for the
first time by a Chinese expedition via
the North ridge. In the framework of
“K2 2004 – 50 years later” Project, the double expedition of
Mount K2 will be preceded by the ascent
of Mount Everest from the Tibetan side. The chosen itinerary through the
North - Northeast Ridge, is one amongst
the most popular as well as the goal of the first British expedition.
The route from the Base Camp (5170 m)
follows Rongbuk glacier and crosses the junction with Changtse Glacier. It is
then possible to reach the Advanced Base Camp (or ABC - 6400 m), placed at the
base of Changtse. Mountaineers spend
the night at the Intermediate Camp (around 5820 m).
The route afterwards proceeds from the ABC
to the North Col (7066 m) where, in a wind protected depression, it is
possible to set up the first high camp (Camp I). A more or less pronounced
ridge stretches from the North Col up
to the North East ridge. Here, at an
altitude comprised between 7560 m and 7800 m,
one will find a mixed rock/scree terrain where it is possible to pitch a tent
The route passes over a series of rocky ledges
on the Northwestern side of the mountain. After a few rocky steps (technically
quite easy) the place of Camp 3
(8200-8300 m) is reached and afterwards one will have to climb over the yellow
band, a limestone band.
On the ridge there are 3 characteristic obstacles (The
Three Steps) which comprise the technical difficulty of the route.
The First Step (8530 m) is a short
climb at large boulders. After that
comes a particularly exposed traverse on a rocky terrain which dominates the
huge northwest face.
From here it is possible to reach the foot of the
Second Step (8610 m) which is divided
in two parts: the lower consists of large boulders which in free climbing
would correspond to the grade III.
Above a steep snow gulley, a famous ladder, four or five meters high, was put
to ease the climb of a gripless vertical slab.
The traverse at the end of the
ladder, although not very long, is the
most difficult part of the ascent. The Third
Step is obviously easier than the other two and is 10 m high.
Afterwards you have to go up towards a
triangular snowy plateau, which is not the final one. It will have to
be left to the right at ¾ height.
It is than possible to approach an horizontal traverse
of around 100 m, to the right and after
some sandstone bands you can reach the
proper summit plateau. The snowy ridge
leads then to a summit which is found beyond a couple of hillocks.
Everest/K2 2004 expedition Expedition
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.