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  Dutch Autumn Mt. Everest 2004: Expedition abandoned


Copyright©Jim Gile American Ski Everest 2003

Update: Expedition abandoned

Yes, you’re reading this right. Marc and Mark had already ceased the climb, as you know. On top of that several people developed physical complaints. In effect only a couple were in shape to make a bid for the summit. We were at 23,000 ft. The difficult steep climb from 21,000 ft to 23,000 went well. Which makes it especially bitter for us to have to abandon the climb.

At 23,000 ft a discussion started with the Sherpas. There was too little rope, and the Sherpas thought the conditions were too dangerous to continue climbing. Last week on of them had a close scrape with death when an avalanche of about 230 ft wide nearly hit them as it came down. We tried to persuade them the best we could, but the Sherpas wouldn’t go on up. Perhaps that was a wise decision, considering the circumstances, but it surely bummed us out. 

Next Saturday Werner will probably tell his story at length from an internet café in Katmandu. The group will probably return to Holland as early as next week. Today Werner told his story to some sort of “Supreme Priest”, who had organized the Yak herders. These Yak herders had stolen all sorts of things (a bag of clothes, a solar panel, an oxygen bottle, pots and pans, and so on). Werner has indicated that the supreme priest (who was being shaven bald during the conversation) is the one who can arrange the return of the stolen goods. Otherwise he will report to the Chinese police. And they are, as you might know, not very gentle people. Tomorrow the supreme priest will visit his men. You will hear more from that next Saturday. On the upside… the team will return all in one piece. To be continued next Saturday.

Dispatches

On the Tibet Side of Everest, a Dutch Team will attempt the mountain.

The Dutch team is

Werner de Jong (expedition leader)
Marc Streefkerk (climber)
Mark Thijssen (climber)
Boris Krielen (climber)
Sander Arens (climber)
Ruby Arens-Halfschepel

with another climber joining the expedition...

Few expeditions are successful in Autumn on Everest as compared with the success in the Spring. See here for a classic Autumn expedition reports: Autumn Everest 2002

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