Mazur and 7 climbers (plus Sherpas) have headed up to the North col for the
next in wave of summit attempts from this team...
EverestNews.com Thanks for all of the great work you are doing in telling the
story of climbing Everest.
Here are the dates, names, and
local origins of the summiters in our two succesful SummitClimb.com teams (so
far, as we plan to continue trying):
2004: 10:45 AM Chinese time
Haines, Colorado, USA.
Waters, Georgia, USA.
Pitula, Lyon, France.
Sherpa, Kulima, Nepal.
Tashi Tsom, Tibet
Kasang, Old Tingri, Tibet
Bredenkamp, Capetown, South Africa.
Sherpa, Kulima, Nepal.
The last few days have been
filled with many challenges and achievements. After a number of days of
patient waiting at 6400m, a group of us made an all-out summit sprint to take
advantage of a brief weather window. The team departed at 0130h on May 18 -
brisk winds, pitch black, and nothing but our headlamps to guide our way up
from 8300m to the Yellow Band. Daniel Mazur stayed in the high camp to help
the team on their way and coordinate the crucial Tibetan part of the team.
After negotiating the slick limestone of the Yellow Band, we gained the summit
ridge after the first step. The Ridge is very exposed with cornices dropping
off 3000m to the left and 2000m on the right. Not a good time to slip, and
especially challenging since we were wearing crampons (skittering across icy
limestone in utter darkness is a very sobering experience). Onward we pushed,
up to the mildly technical but quickly overcome second step. After picking our
lines carefully, we were standing on the top of the second step and trotting
quickly towards the third step. A few hours later we (John, Lakpa Temba
Sherpa, Frank, Ryan, Thomas) were standing on top of the highest peak in the
world; great views, exhaustion, and elation. Nurbu Tsipe and Dorje Kasang
followed a few hours later.
A quick stay at the top and
we were ready to descend. As we downclimbed the summit pyramid dihedral, we
ran into a number of climbers that were still making their way up to the
summit. We found out later that these climbers were members of the
unfortunate Korean team that tragically lost two of their members that day.
Our deepest sympathies go out to the fallen climbers' loved ones. Soon after
we descended to safety at the North Col and ABC we were informed of another
loss; a Japanese climber. It is a sobering reminder of how ruthless the
mountain can be.
The second wave of climbers
was not as fortunate with the weather as the first - gale force winds,
whiteout conditions, subzero temperatures, and hostile surface conditions
conspired to make further attempts highly difficult and hazardous. However,
despite fierce weather, our Andre Bredenkamp from South Africa became the
first South African male to summit from the North Face. Braving untoward
conditions with the help of Lakpa Chiri Sherpa, Andre has made it into the
record books - and is currently making his way down to ABC safely. Hats off
The final summit assault
teams are planning on making their attack at the earliest sign of fair
weather, perhaps in the next day or two. Oxygen and other essentials are
moving into place and we send our very best wishes for a safe successful
Thank You Very Much, Cheers,
Yours Sincerely, from John Mislow, Thomas Haines, Duane Morrison, and all of
us at SummitClimb.com
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