Summit Report 2:
Dear Cristina, Nena and Santiago, Andrés and Tom
almost reached the South Summit, or a little less. During their descent,
Héctor and Andrew Lock, also from the Discovery Channel found Tom in very bad
shape, tumbling, with a broken crampon, still trying to go ahead. They had to
convince him to turn around, to get diamox and dexametasone and to plug a
bottle of oxygen. It was difficult, Andrés helped to convince him.
At the same time Luis ran out
of oxygen while going down the South Summit. The same guys from Discovery
realized that and gave him a bottle.
The thing is that Andrés,
Tom, Alejandro and Luis met at a certain point.
Héctor and Andrés discussed
the situation and Andrés decided to go down, which everybody has applauded
because of the current situation, since this had become a rescue mission. It
will be hard to get Tom down, slowly above all, but he is in good hands,
Andrew is an expert in high mountain rescue and there is also Héctor and
Andrés who in spite of the effort done so far, seems to have a very clear mind
and he is also helping with the descent.
The weather is still good,
there are still 4 hours left.
Now we are going to locate
and to ask for oxygen bottles for this night in Camp 4. Maybe Andrés will not
need them but everybody else will.
Richard and Martin, I
suppose, are going down to Camp 3. Martin went down very fast to the South
Col and he is fine.
I wish I could have sent
better news, but it is good that they are not worse!
The producer of the Discovery
Channel ordered to stop filming and to get totally involved in the rescue.
There is also another climber of the Henry Todd expedition who ran out of
oxygen, he has not been given another bottle and he is missing. The guys from
Discovery are also trying to locate him.
Really, the Discovery guys
are behaving like gentlemen and we are grateful for them.
Kisses and hugs, José Luis.
Translated from Spanish by