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  Mexican-Canadian Mt Everest Expedition 2004: Update


Mexican-Canadian Mt Everest Expedition 2004 lead by Andres Delgado

Andres Delgado is sponsored in part by:

Two Updates

At 5 AM today, 4 climbers (Andrés, Alejandro, Luis and Tom) left towards Camp 2, where they will spend the night.  I have already talked with Andrés, he said they arrived with no problems to Camp 2.  The plan for day after tomorrow, May 5th, is to get to the South Col and touch the 8,000 m.  It is not a summit attempt, nor could it be, because the wind will only get down enough during the day.  They will have to get back quickly.  The weather forecast for today confirmed the weather of yesterday and it's even better, it looks very proper to go up to 8,000 m. on the 5th.

Martin and Richard will try to join them leaving early tomorrow morning and getting also to the South Col on the 5th (day after tomorrow).

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

Hello Everybody!

On May 3, 2004, Andrés, Alejandro, Luis and Tom left for Camp 2 (21,300’), where they will spend the night. Camp II is a smaller version of Base Camp, with a cook tent, dining tent, and individual sleeping tents. Most of our teams rest time above base camp is here.

Upon arrival, via radio, Andrés confirmed that they arrived safely with no problems. Despite the high winds over the weekend, the camp was intact. Martin and Richard will try to join them leaving early on May 4th.

The plan for May 5th, is to get to the South Col. Camp IV, the uppermost camp, is situated here at 26,000’. The South Col is higher than all but 17 of the world’s highest peaks, placing it in the “death zone”, a poorly defined but easily recognized altitude where our team know they must limit their time as their condition deteriorates fairly quickly above this altitude. Here, three tents will be erected, but until the night before a summit attempt, Camp IV is little more than a place to store oxygen, if required and equipment.

As we are getting close to the time when a summit attempt might be possible, let me tell you what will happen.

The day before the summit attempt, the team will climb from Camp III to Camp IV, arriving there in the early afternoon. They’ll rest for a few hours and “brew up”, rehydrate themselves before departing around midnight for the summit. They should reach the “Balcony” at the base of the southeast ridge around sunrise. From there, they will continue along the ridge to the south summit. They will then negotiate a traverse to the Hillary Step, a 40-foot high wall of rock and ice, which, when climbed, puts them within one hour of the summit. The team must leave the summit by 2:00pm, arriving back at Camp IV before dark. It is an 18 hour day!

So, that’s where the team is right now. Weather is getting better. The Jet Stream is moving north, away from the mountain. The “window” that the team has been hoping for is near. A summit attempt is close!

Dispatches

 
Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.

 






 

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