27, 2004: A few hours ago, the leaders of 10 expeditions
had a meeting to agree on the installation of fixed
lines between Camp 3 and Camp 4. The meeting was called
by the American expedition of Dave Breashears.
The highest end of the fixed
lines so far is at the base of the Yellow Band at 7,600 meters of altitude.
The Titanic task of installing the line from Camp 3 at 7,300 meters up to
7,600 meters of the mentioned "Yellow Band" was accomplished by a powerful
group of Sherpas of the Discovery expedition leaded by one of their best
climbers, Mexican Héctor Ponce de León.
The task was accomplished in
a day of little sun and a lot of snow. Our most sincere congratulations to the
Discovery team, and especially to Héctor. This advance marks an important
progress for all the expeditions.
The next thing now is to
install ropes up to 8,000 meters. The 10 expeditions who held the meeting
called by the Americans agreed that on the 28th each expedition would send two
Sherpas with ropes, screws and the necessary materials to rig the route up to
Camp 4. If the weather is good, on the 29th the route would be rigged up to
8,000 meters which is the South Col, which is Camp 4. When the line is ready,
we will decide when to climb for our acclimatization at 8,000 meters.
Translated from Spanish
by Jorge Rivera