have a big surprise, Fritz, Markus, Lakpa, and Dawa finally reached the summit
the 17th of May at 11am Nepal time, they thought the summit was not high
enough so they went back 100m and turn back again to finish it properly.
It is the first ascent by the
Tibetan side this year, with a huge team of 2 member plus 2 Sherpas. I am very
proud of them, everybody is fine we are going back to Kathmandu tonight the
18th. Sorry to inform you so late but I was joining them in ABC to welcome
them back on earth. I would like to thank EverestNews.com to have build us a
wonderful web page, Thanks to all friends and family for their support and if
I can I would like to say hello to my sponsors Lowe Alpine, Salomon, Cébé, As
Adventure. and also a kiss to my mum, wife and kids. see you, Zeb
the latest news, Fritz, Marcus, and our 2 Sherpas Lakpa and Dawa have reached
the second step this morning 8680m, after having climb all night, the weather
is perfect today. But they decided to come down because they had no more ropes
to fix. It is hard to understand what happened. A group of 5 Italian with 4
Sherpas was suppose to fix rope and to go for the summit this morning,
apparently our team was stronger or let say faster so Lakpa has ask them to
take 200m of rope and to go ahead, after having overtaking the Italian group
and fixed 200m rope, for some reason the Italian decided to turn back instead
of helping my team to finish fixing rope and to summit. It is really
frustrating to know that the team is strong, the forecast is perfect, but
finally we had to abort.
As I spoke to Marcus this
morning they were 2 hours from the top, but they decided that the security was
worth the summit that is a very clever decision, which is somehow hard to take
so close from the goal.
This attempt was the first in
the north side, because of a bad communication between the big expedition
which are suppose to organize the rope, we have already missed three summit
day where a lot of people from the other side had summited.
Congratulation to them they
have down a great job and they have proved they could easily summit if all the
pieces of the puzzle have been present. see you, Zeb
Update 5/16/2004: The Austrian team is attempting the Summit right now and
have passed the first step.
are back to CBC, after 7 days of rebuilding in Kathmandu, good food, good
drink, Just what we needed.
Anyway I was still looking at
the forecast everyday, and we now have decided that the 17th of May would be
the perfect day, the wind is decreasing from the 15 then the 16 is very good
with wind around 30K/h on the top, then the 17th almost no wind maybe cloudy
afternoon, but then they shall be on their way back. [Note the forecast has
changed again, for apparently the better.]
Our only question is that: as
no fixed rope has been put after 8100m, will they be enough team attempting
this day, to succeed in one of the first Summit try of this year ?
Today Fritz and Marcus are
walking up to ABC, tomorrow they will rest, the 15 ABC, North Col, the 16
North Col, Camp 2 : 7900m, then they will start early night so around 11h pm
Nepali time Climb all night to reach summit early in the morning the 17.
Here are the plan, Talk back
to you when I will have more info.
See You, Zeb
after estimating our acclimatation is complete, and because the forecast is
not showing any possible summit day before mid may, we have decided to
establish a new camp, we call it camp 4. It's a rest camp in Kathmandu, so we
are now resting 7 days in Kathmandu, in order to refuel our body and to come
back in full shape for the last push after 5 weeks in the sand, the cold, the
dry and windy Tibet it's extremely good for the mental to see the green, and
warm Nepal, and to breath normally.
After considering the Idea of
Fritz to come down and relax, we have taken advice from a doctor specialized
in high altitude who has confirmed us that in 7 days we would not lose the
benefit of our acclimatation, we have decided that it would be the best way to
wait the good window.
The coming back was quite
hard, we got stuck in a small river for 3 hours at 5300m, and a total ride of
17 hours but is really worth it, the canyon who leads to the Tibetan border
Zangmu is just amazing the road goes from 5200m down to 900m in Barhabise, the
road is cut in the middle of the cliff with sometimes 1000m of nothing under
Zeb is Checking every day the
weather report to establish a plan to be the perfect day on the summit, it
seems that we will have a good period from the16 to the 19 but this is still
far and the forecast can still change so we have to be careful.
Marcus is enjoying the food
again, and the swimming pool is at he right temperature he says.
talk to you soon, Zeb
here we are still at the base camp, we have spent four days resting after our
pushing to 7000m most of the team are reaching this altitude in those days.
The life down at the base camp
is resume to a breakfast at 9 then we spend our time reading, or walking
around to the different expeditions, then we have lunch very local for example
pizza with mushrooms or vegetable, then afternoon again some reading we have
tea, tonight we have a Chicken bought by our sherpa Lakpa he is a very
friendly Sherpa from the Khumbu valley he has summited two times, and he is
one of our best chances to summit here he just came from ABC yesterday under
the snow in three ours for 22km its not so bad don't you think?
It's very interesting to go
around and to discuss the goal of the different expeditions, to see
the mentality in which the different groups works, from the Russians, to the
American, Greek, Spanish, Chinese this year its quite international.
Some are there just to see,
some others are motivated like hell, some others are just following what the
others are doing.
Now our main concern is to
know when the fixed ropes are going to be ready for the summit: until now the
ropes are put until 7800m.
The problem is for a small
group like us that we are not big enough to prepare the mountain, and to fix
hundreds of meter of ropes, so that mean that we have to wait for the big
group like Italian or other group with more than 20 Sherpas to get the
mountain ready to climb, that mean that we must at least go at the same time
better wait one day after them to go and use the ropes.
This mountain is such a big
one that we have to join our effort to make it ready. Our plan is to be ready
for the last push by the end of the month.
So tomorrow Wednesday 28 we
go back to ABC then the 29 we will be on the north col 7000m then one night
there the 30th we push to 7500m or little more if we feel so and then come
back to ABC, end of the acclimatisation, rest in ABC or back to CBC and from
there we wait for the final window.
Studying the weather like
crazy to find the perfect window. I get the forecast from Yan Gienzendanner
which has work several year on this mountain he his working in the meteofrance
so he has all the French system to help him in his work and I must say for
instance the forecast he gave us is quite accurate.
The weather has been very bad
until now, yesterday we had 15cm of snow in the camp, what is frustrating is
that there is almost no wind on the top these days.
Now our goal is to finish our
acclimatisation, and to rush on the first opening of the weather to push for
sorry for my English I m sure
you understand that touching the keyboard with the north Face gloves is like
trying to do surgery with boxing gloves. byby Zeb.
Hello I start a new mail, I'
m not sure this one is gone any way, here are the news we just come down from
ABC where our team have finish their acclimatisation, sleeping at 7000m and
pushing a little further.
We have had a lot of strong
wind these last day especially today a lot of tents have been destroyed in ABC
and in the interim camp, even in the Chinese Base camp.
We had to put our dining tent
down because it was starting to explode from every part. Our team is feeling
alright, time is getting long and every body wants to get closer to the summit
now. Marcus is missing Martina and his mother 's food, Fritz he wants
everything to be finished fast.
As always the mountain will
decide, we have to be ready but patient. see you Zeb
4/24/2004: Hello. Here is some news from the Austrian team. Today we are back
at the Chinese camps. After joining our sherpa team on the 19th for a direct
walk to ABC, we were quite exhausted, but we managed it after stopping in the
American tent. The team at North Col was very nice to us and gave us a little
Nepali tea, which helped a lot towards our progression Finally, we
arrived at ABC around 7 pm. We stayed there two days to recover, put up tent,
and look around for some friends. Our cook got sick for one full day, but
after two aspirin he was on his feet again. Because we heard that the forecast
was OK for the North Col, we decided to get there on the 22nd to put down some
material, tent plus food. Because we had too much material we could not send
it all to ABC at once. Our sherpa had no crampons and could not help us get
our material on the North Col. We still went there because I thought that it
would be good for the acclimatisation. We did it very well, and on the 23rd we
walked back to ABC in order to recover several days. I'll tell you more later.
Best regards, Zeb.
Update 4/18/2004: We are an
Austrian team with two climbers, Fritz Klausner and Marcus Noichl, led by the
French guide Zebulon, and we also have three sherpas. We are on the North side
here in base camp for three days. The team is in very good shape. We will
climb with oxygen. We plan to reach ABC on the 19th, and we are ready for a
long acclimatization. Everything is going well for the moment. Cheers to all
friends and family, Zeb.
Zeb, of course, is Roche
Bertrand aka "Zebulon," who in 1990 summited Everest when only 17 years old
with his father Jean-Noël Roche. They flew together on a tandem paraglider
from the South Col and landed at base camp on the 7th of October, 1990. Then
he returned to Everest and summited with his wife, Claire Bernier Roche...
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