Climbing the slopes of Mt. Everest is sometime as dangerous if not more dangerous than going for the summit: By George Dijmarescu

Self portrait, yeah was cold up there ©George Dijmarescu

Climbing the slopes of Mt. Everest is sometimes as dangerous if, not more dangerous than going for the summit. Last year while climbing towards the camp at 8300m or the last camp on the North side of Everest, I walked into a very unnerving situation. Only 30-45 minutes below this camp is a place as dangerous as climbing K2 and the danger is not from falling rocks or sharp ridges but from missiles of Oxygen bottles. While I was descending from the last camp after my first summit attempt with my wife Lakpa Sherpa and Slava Skripko (a Russian climber and friend) we sat down for a rest just minutes below when I was hit directly on my back by an empty Oxygen bottle, my luck was the large sleeping bag I was carrying inside my back pack, it took my breath away for a few seconds but other than a little pain I wasn't hurt at all. The moral shock was so great that I made the rest of the descent looking up in fear that another bottle might come down, constantly thinking if it would hit me just few centimeters higher would have hit me exactly behind my head with serious circumstances or death.

On my second attempt on May 30th, I was climbing in the same area, luckily with my eyes toward the last camp when a bottle came straight toward to my head, I only had time to move my head slightly to the right and it missed by few centimeters, the bottle picked up speed at every bounce and went down towards the two climbers just 100 meters bellow, I had time to yelled: "watche [watch out]" but the speed of the bottle was greater than the sound of my voice and went just less than a half meter on right hand side of an Irish climber, he had no chance to react since he was climbing with his eyes down on the ground, the bottle went strait down the North face and on the main Rongbuk Glacier.

I was angry at the Tibetan sherpa climbing above me, thinking he was responsible for sending the bottle down the mountain, I scream in anger but he couldn't hear me. Approaching the last camp I notice many empty bottles resting precariously only behind little pebbles of rocks, totally irresponsibly abandoned by climbers or sherpa. I realize this is a serious problem and a tragedy waiting to happen and I know will happen unless some awareness and education takes place.

After the summit I share my experience with two sherpa from Russell Brice's team, Phurba Tashi Sherpa and Chhiring Sherpa, both summited twice last year and are incredible strong and dedicated true guides, they informed me that one of the members from Russell team was also struck by an Oxygen bottle in the head and bled seriously. While Russell knows very well the terrain and place this ballet of flying bottles takes place, there is little one can do to prevent it.

A sign planted at the left turn below the snow slope (8150 m) can make climbers aware of danger, those who might not be able to read English or French or other international language might not benefit from the sign, therefore this can be mentioned at the regular meeting Russell and other commercial expedition hold and try to educate climbers of the ever waiting danger of carelessness. I truly believe this will save lives and prevent making Mt Everest an  dangerous place far from its summit.

Will see you on Everest, again. George Dijmarescu

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