Mt. Everest 2004: Irish Moving up for a Summit Attempt

Dispatch -  Base Camp Wyeth was hopping this morning. There had been an electrical problem that had to be fixed in time for radio weather broadcasts. Adrian had only reconnected the power to the radio base set, when Pat called - perfect timing. Phew!

All at Camp 2 Lowe Alpine were in good form and had slept well.


Enjoying the sunshine at Camp 2 Lowe Alpine

Weather details wee discussed. Weather still looks promising. More importantly, the Jet Stream and its destructive powers are expected to stay well away to the North and West of the region for at least 5 more days. Still, it is vital to continually monitor weather details from as many sources as possible.

Every climber is staying at Camp 2 Lowe Alpine tonight. The rest of the day will be spent resting and taking in nourishment. Eating well and drinking plenty of fluid is vital for success. Tomorrow, any movement upward will be dictated by the weather forecasts. These will be available later today.

Dispatch - May 14

Today was an early start. Just after 3.00am Rinji and Dawe were up to get breakfast ready for the climbers. This is the beginning of the summit push. The climbers and the support team were up by 3.30am.

At 4.00pm Pemba, Pat and Clare were tucking into a good breakfast. Sheila and Adrian just drank tea from large stainless steel mugs that also served to warm cold hands. They would have their breakfast later.
Base Camp Wyeth had been bustling and now everything was ready for the off. At 5.00am Clare, Pat and Pemba left. At 5.30 Tensing left and was followed an hour later by Lhakpa, Jangbu and Lamababu. By 7.00am all the climbers could be made out as small dots in the
expanse of the icefall high above.


Clare crossing a crevasse in the Khumbu Icefall


The climbers reaching the top of the Khumbu Icefall

Weather was monitored throughout the morning. A radio call from Pat at midday announced their arrival at Camp 1 - 5943m (19,500ft). Everyone was fine and they were having a well deserved break. Shortly afterwards the radio crackled to life - they were on their way to Camp 2 Lowe Alpine - 6492m (21,300ft).

Around 6.00pm we heard from Pat, that they had arrived safely and were feeling strong. They were settling down to a meal prepared by Tensing and would call later for weather details. Just after 8.00pm weather forecasts were discussed over the radio. The current forecast looks promising for the next few days.

Dispatches Pat Falvey, veteran expedition leader, Everest climber, author and motivational speaker. To book Pat Falvey on his 'AGAINST THE SKY' LECTURE TOUR. e-mail us at

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