Before climbing up the mountain, we had a nice day of ice
climbing close to base camp. It was useful to rehearse some techniques with
on the 5th of April, Joost, Greg, Pemba, Pasang and Ang Pemba left for OC&C
Strategy Consultants camp 1 at 6425 m. A 5h30 wake up is followed by a
breakfast difficult to make progress on. We left at 6h30.
The way to
OC&C camp 1 has two parts. First, a two hour walk around the glacier going up
and down, up and down, without gaining any height. At about 5900 meters, a
scree slope starts which leads up to OC&C camp 1 at 6425 m. This scree slope
is long and painfull, but we were prepared. At 11h30 we started pitching tents
in OC&C camp 1!
"Literature is rich describing the route from base camp to camp 1. Complaints
are more than frequent regarding the scree slope leading to camp 1, so I knew
it would be hard. I hardly slept during the night because of nerves... After a
year of intensive preparations this morning meant for me the real start! I
tried to have some breakfast in the early morning and left base camp, feeling
weak. During the walk, I never looked back and before I knew it I had arrived
in OC&C camp 1 (four and a half hours)! It was great to be in a tent at 6425
meters and cooking some food, and feeling well. I actually slept quite well.
Now we are back in base camp, 2 rest days before heading back up the mountain.
Plan is then to sleep in OC&C camp 1 and then climb up to Fugro camp 2 at 7000
meters. I think staying healthy is very important at this stage and hope for
"Getting up before the sun warms your tent is a different experience after 6
"lazy" days in basecamp. Trying to force down a fat omelet completes a great
start of the day. After taking two bites, time is up and I quickly finish
packing my backpack before hastily following the rest of the team through the
morenes. When the sun peeks over the mountains I discover that I forgot my
suncream... DISASTER! Unprotected skin quickly transforms into baked meat at
this altitude. I shout towards Greg, who is 300 meters ahead. Fortunately he
understands me and leaves his cream on a rock next to the trail. Phew! The
small things will determine success or failure in this phase. A severely
burned face could very well end your expedition. The climb up the much
discussed (and feared) scree slope discloses great views on the surrounding
glaciers, and I actually succeed to enjoy it. Camp 1 is an eagles nest on the
W ridge of Cho Oyu and provides a detailed view on the route to the summit.
The route seems icy, with a lot of rock. Not the perfect skiing conditions.
Now back in basecamp I look back at a good start of the actual climb and I
anxiously look forward to the next weeks."
"Feeling weak with intestinal problems I stayed behind in Base Camp. With
mixed feelings I wished everybody succes on their first ascent to OC&C camp 1.
With walki talki's I kept in contact with Joost and Greg up the mountain.
Early in the afternoon the Sherpa's arrived back at base camp. Everything went
Ok. Only Ang Pemba had a headache. At night both Joost and Greg said they were
Ok, feeling well! Good, nothing to worrie about for me. Hopefully I can join
Joost and Greg on the next climb to OC&C camp 1."
copyright SKi8000 Expedition
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function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
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