The reduced summit team is on
its way! Greg, Pasang and Ang Pemba set off on Sunday April 26th. In just over
3 hours they reached OC&C camp 1... proving that their acclimatization is
excellent right now.
The weather has been bad the
last few days. Lots of snow has fallen. Let's all hope that we get another
"good weather window" the next 3 days! Keep our fingers crossed.
Greg told me that the night
in camp 1 was extremely cold, but his cough has improved and he feels
recovered from the first summit attempt. Today (Monday 26th) at 9 AM (we use
Nepalese time = GMT + 4h45) the team will start the climb to Fugro camp 2. The
climb will likely be hard, since nobody has been higher than camp 1 in the
last 2 days and fresh snow has erased all tracks. The team has to brake trail
Herman and I will keep you up
to date during this final summit attempt. For me it was a strange and sad
feeling to wish the summit team good luck on Sunday morning. I felt strong and
ready to go up, and all I wanted to do was grab my backpack and join Greg and
the boys. But my eye's condition is still not improving. The first thing I do
after opening my eyes each morning is testing my left eye by trying to read a
magazine title... but no improvement so far.
In the meantime, Herman and I
have no time to get bored in basecamp. I have become an experienced medical
assistant. On Saturday we diagnosed the second case of Pulmonary Edema. The
guy was carried down by Tibetians immediately. On Sunday we made our daily
round and found out that Luis, the leader of the Spanish expedition (we
treated him earlier for bronchitis) had also become snowblind. This morning he
started his return trip to Madrid.
Finally, we have become the
most active sales guys of basecamp. The most profitable business so far is
selling rights to use our fixed ropes on the mountain. Currently,
approximately 20 climbers have acquired the right to use the Dutch ropes. We
have sold 3 bottles of our emergency oxygen (sales has boomed since word
spread around that we saved a life with it) and we have sold one of our tents
in Vicks camp 3 (pitched and ready to use at 7450 m, what a service!). More
updates follow soon. Let's all hope for a successful and safe ski descent form
the summit! Joost
Update 2: The summit
team has climbed from OC&C 1 to Fugro 2 at 7080 m under very bad weather
conditions. Tomorrow Greg, Pasang and Ang Pemba will attempt to reach Vicks 3
at 7450 m. We'll keep you informed, Joost
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