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 Simone Moro Baruntse north side | ||||||
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It had been very difficult, very... but at the end using all our capacities and resistance we reached our objective. The north face of Khali Himal or Baruntse nord is really big, vertical, dangerous, impressive. It was virgin and unclimbed and only the ices of the trekkers and climber had been dreamed a climb on that wall after looking the mountain. We knew that we have to use all our capacities and strength to have success on that face. And it happen..... We struggled four days and nights again wind, could, mix climb, ice and rock. We had bivy 4 days in three people in a tend of two... We never found place to set it good and only our legs hanging in devoid.. Ice crew, rock pitons, ice axes, friends and nuts had been used to climb the complicate wall, but the real struggle had been against the wind and cold. We get 35 m/sec (120 Km/h) wind during all the climb and also on the summit!!! We had been very happy to reach the summit this new and first route and we spend 12 hours to come down from the mountain rappelling on a single ice crew for 20 times..... The name of the route is “Ciao Patrick” because we dedicated the climb to Patrick who recently died. He was our friend... The specification of our new route you can see below. Now we will have rest and than we will fly to Annapurna I 8091 m for a new challenge. Thank you to follow us, Simone
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